KOREASCHOLAR

Analysis of the collar pattern of a double-breasted tailored jacket using virtual fitting - Comparison of collar laying amount according to lapel fold line start position - 가상착의를 활용한 더블브레스트 테일러드 재킷의 칼라 패턴 분석 - 라펠 꺾임선 시작 위치에 따른 칼라의 눕힘 분량 비교 -

전미화, 장정아
  • 언어KOR
  • URLhttp://db.koreascholar.com/Article/Detail/427272
복식문화연구 (服飾文化硏究)
31권 5호 (2023.10)
pp.640-650
복식문화학회 (The Costume Culture Association)
초록

This study aimed to suggest a suitable collar pattern by visually evaluating the appearance of the amount of collar drape by the starting position of the lapel line of a double-breasted tailored jacket using a 3d virtual fitting program. It created an avatar based on the mean size of women in their 20s (the 8th Size Korea) using clo network (double fastening: 10cm, collar width: 4.5cm, collar stand: 3cm, and lapel width: 8.5cm). The starting of the lapel twist line was waistline level, the 1/2 level of bustline and waistline, or bustline level, and collar laying amount was 4.5, 5.5, 6.5, or 7.5cm. It was evaluated by garment construction experts using 5, 6, and 4 items on the front, sides, and back, respectively. Descriptive statistics, F-test, Duncantest, and reliability analysis were conducted using SPSS 22. When collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. Under waist line, when collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. When collar laying amount was large, the collar’s outline length increased, resulting in unnecessary wrinkles from the neckline to the lapel, affecting the overall collar appearance. When collar laying amount was the smallest, the collar was lifted and the width was narrowed, exposing the seam connecting the collar and neckline. The length of the collar’s outline varied depending on collar laying amount, which was important to make the outline sit comfortably on the body.

목차
I.􀀃 Introduction
Ⅱ.􀀃 Method
Ⅲ.􀀃 Result􀀃 and􀀃 Discussion
    1.􀀎Appearance􀀎evaluation􀀎results􀀎of􀀎waistline􀀎level
    2.􀀎 Appearance􀀎 evaluation􀀎 results􀀎 of􀀎 1/2􀀎 level􀀎between􀀎 bustline􀀎 and􀀎 waistline
    3.􀀎 Appearance􀀎 evaluation􀀎 result􀀎 of􀀎 bustline􀀎 level
Ⅳ.􀀃 Conclusion
저자
  • 전미화(경상국립대학교 의류학과 강사) | Mi Hwa Jun (Lecturer, Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Gyeongsang National University, Korea)
  • 장정아(부산대학교 의류학과 교수) | Jeongah Jang (Professor, Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Pusan National University, Korea) Corresponding author