Kimono sleeves have continuously appeared in modern fashion as a design motif and this trend has become increasingly prevalent recently. However for research in the area of clothing composition for kimono sleeves in Korea, there has been a lack of development of master patterns based on basic data from the analysis of the standard body type of Korean people and finalized designs based on comparative experiments and analysis of pre-existing research Thus, there is no ideal master kimono sleeve pattern development research based on the examination of the results of the analysis of the standard body type of Korean people. Therefore by recognizing the importance of developing a master kimono sleeve pattern, this research aims to present a practical master kimono sleeve pattern for the standard body type of someone in their 30s. First, the four master patterns were collected and a dressing evaluation was conducted, and by selecting and improving one of these master designs, a final research master pattern was developed after a second dressing evaluation. Through this research, it was possible to design a master kimono sleeve pattern appropriate both externally and functionally for the standard body type of someone in their 30s, which has not been a consideration in previous research.

The influence of Japonism, which is the post-mid-19th century phenomenon of appreciating and preferring the Japanese style that manifested all across Western art, started to grow as a result of the active open-door policy of Japan at this time. As all areas of Japanese arts and culture, such as paintings, sculptures and theater plays, influenced Europe and America, this influence developed into a cultural phenomenon that was reflected even in fashion. The characteristic elements of the kimono first expanded from Paris and showed a similar silhouette to that of the traditional kimono in the early 20th century, but towards the middle and the end of the century, kimono sleeves that were connected as one piece without a connecting seam line between the sleeve and bodice started to appear. The foundation of this research focuses on the design characteristics of kimono sleeves that can be seen in 20th-century fashion, and five varying kimono sleeve jackets and coats based on these formative characteristics were designed. Each design had a gusset design added, which improved the external and mobility problems inherent in kimono sleeve patterns, while at the same time serving as a proposal for new design element applications. Additionally, through various changes to and attempts at designs using the kimono sleeve as a limiting factor, new design possibilities were explored.

This study aims to conduct a investigation on the gusset of a Kimono sleeve to achieve excellent movability through an evaluation of its fit wearing by conducting comparative research in terms of the length of the gusset pattern according to sleeve angle, which having a great effect on the wearing and activity of the top of a Kimono sleeve. A prototype was manufactured by developing the basic Kimono sleeve based on the method of Ernestine Kopp’s basic bodice pattern. The sleeve angles which was applied to the prototype pattern of the Kimono sleeve ware approximately 50°, 70° and the gusset was diamond-shaped which has a width of 10cm and lengths of 9cm, 10cm and 11cm. As a result, in the case of 55° of the sleeve angle, the angle was gradually increased as the length of gusset was extended, although, in the case of 68° of the sleeve angle, there was not remarkable effects between increased gusset length and the value of the angle. This result could be analyzed that the gusset did not affect remarkably since the sufficient movability was gained with only the angle in the case of 68°. Also, in the results of experiment on 55° angle, as 9cm, 10cm and 11cm of length of gusset commonly indicated over 70° in average, it was found that the movability was obtained sufficiently in every part.