천연염색을 원예치료 프로그램에 활용하기 위한 자료 확보 차원에서 전통적인 청색염료인 대청(Isatis tinctoria)의 열수 추출물 1%액을 이용하여 염색온도와 시간을 달리하여 견과 면직물에 대한 염색성을 조사하였다. 염색 온도는 견직물의 경우 70~80℃에서, 면직물은 80~90℃에서 20분간 침지 염색을 하였으며, 매염은 명반[AlK(SO4)2·12H2O], 황산구리(CuSO4) 및 황산제1철(FeSO4)을 각각 3% 농도로 하여 25±2℃에서 20분간 후매염을 기본으로 하였다. 견과 면직물의 표면색은 R, RP 및 YR 계열로 나타났으며, 견과 면직물 모두 염색시간과 온도의 영향은 적게 받았으나 매염제 종류에 따른 차이가 컸다. 헌터 a값은 견직물의 경우 2.76~21.03, 면직물은 0.09~11.06을 나타냈으며, b값은 견직물의 경우 -0.16~16.50, 면직물은 -0.79~12.16을 나타내었다. 염색포의 ᐃE값은 견직물의 경우 27.23~44.11, 면직물은 11.36~20.98을 나타내었다. 따라서 견직물은 70~80℃, 면직물은 80~90℃에서 20분 정도로 염색을 하되, 매염제를 달리하여 다양한 색상으로 발색을 시키는 것이 좋을 것으로 생각된다.
To gather the data related to utilization of the natural dyeing materials for the horticultural therapy program, we examined the effects of dyeing temperature and time of hot-water extract of woad(Isatis tinctoria) on dyeability of silk and cotton fabrics. After making 1% hot-water extract from the traditional blue dyes, I. tinctoria, silk and cotton fabrics were dyed by dipping in the extracting solution at 70~80℃ for 20 minutes and at 80~90℃ for 20 minutes, respectively. Mordants used in this study were AlK(SO4)2·12H2O, CuSO4 and FeSO4. Basically, silk and cotton fabrics were treated with 3% solution of these mordants at 25±2℃, and dyed for 20 minutes afterwards. Both the silk and cotton fabrics in the dyeing time and temperature, were less likely to be affected. The surface colors of silk and cotton fabrics were R, RP and YR levels. Silk and cotton fabrics were less influenced by dyeing time and temperature. However, those were significantly differenced between kinds of mordants. The values of Hunter a had ranged from 2.76 to 21.03 in silk and from 0.09 to 11.06 in cotton. The values of Hunter b had ranged from -0.16 to 16.50 in silk and from -0.79 to 12.16 in cotton. In addition, ᐃE values had ranged from 27.23 to 44.11 in silk and from 11.36 to 20.98 in silk. Therefore, we suggest using different mordants to dye fabrics a variety of colors with leaf extracts of Isatis tinctoria, although silk and cotton fabrics were dyed at 70~80℃ and 80~90℃, respectively, for 20 minutes.