This study suggests a new perspective for designing men’s tailored jackets by more carefully considering human muscle structure. For this study, we examined research regarding the construction of the tailored jacket that is based on costume history references, as well as research regarding human muscle structure that is based on human anatomy references and the analysis of recent fashion designs illustrating the human body image. Based on this research, we developed various tailored constructions that account for human muscle structure. These constructions are applied primarily to the backs of four tailored jackets, as the back of the jacket needs a mechanism to accommodate the wearer’s movement. The following conclusions have been derived from the study: First, by developing the tailored garment structure that accounts for the muscle structure of the human body, we suggest a new design direction for tailored garments. Second, we propose a new type of tailored jacket structure for the back of the jacket that incorporates an artificial muscle structure to accommodate the wearer’s activities. This new type of jacket indicates the potential for designs that use structure, particularly the structure of the human body. Finally, by using the embroidery technique, we changed the texture of the material into the shape of human muscle. Thus, we propose a design that uses three-dimensional volume to accounts for the shape of human body tissue.

Abstract
 I. Introduction
 Ⅱ. Theoretical Considerations
  1. Human muscle structure
  2. Historical review of tailored jacket
 Ⅲ. Development and Production of Tailored Jackets
  1. Development of design
  2. Production and explanation
 Ⅳ. Conclusion
 References

• Hanchul Lee(Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Hanyang University) | 이한철
• Younhee Lee(Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Hanyang University) | 이연희 Corresponding author