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Characteristics of decentralized suit design in contemporary fashion KCI 등재

현대 패션에 나타난 탈중심 슈트 디자인 특성

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복식문화연구 (The Research Journal of the Costume Culture)
복식문화학회 (The Costume Culture Association)
초록

This study explores the contemporary reinterpretation of traditional suit design through the lens of post-structuralist philosopher Jacques Derrida’s concept of decentralization. The objective is to systematically analyze the diverse expression methods of decentralized suits in contemporary fashion and identify their design characteristics, thus exploring various design possibilities for decentraliz suits. To achieve this, the study examines the deconstructivist fashion collections of notable designers such as Martin Margiela, Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons, Alexander McQueen, and Thom Browne, analyzing 269 decentralized suits from their men’s collections from 2009 to the present. The methods of decentralization are categorized based on the structure (composition), details, and materials of the garments, are classified into deconstruction, discontinuity, and disorder. Specific expression methods include irregular wearing, layering, asymmetry, and distortion for deconstruction; omission, heterogeneous insertion, material transition, and separation for discontinuity; and tearing, graffiti, and unfinished elements for disorder. The identified design characteristics are as follows: gender-neutral and category-free, which dismantles the rigid formality and masculine image of suits to allow flexible and diverse gender expressions; integration of unconventional elements, which combines traditional suit design with non-traditional details like ruffles, strings, unfinished edges, and graffiti to create new designs; and sustainable design, which utilizes the deconstruction and recombination of existing suits to recycle discarded suits, making it suitable for upcycling.

목차
Abstract
I.􀀃 Introduction
Ⅱ.􀀃 Theoretical􀀃 Background
    1.􀀎 Suit
    2.􀀎 Decentralized􀀎 fashion
Ⅲ.􀀃 The􀀃 Expression􀀃 Methods􀀃 and􀀃Characteristics􀀃 of􀀃 Decentralized􀀃 Suits
    1.􀀎 Decomposition
    2.􀀎 Discontinuity
    3.􀀎 Disorder
Ⅳ.􀀃 Conclusion
References
저자
  • Hyemin Kim(Ph. D., Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Hanyang University, Korea) | 김혜민 (한양대학교 의류학과 박사)
  • Younhee Lee(Professor, Major in Human-Tech Convergence, Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Hanyang University, Korea) | 이연희 (한양대학교 의류학과 휴먼테크융합전공 교수) Corresponding author