唐宋時期茶的異名與中國思維方式的運作
This article examines Tang-Song alternative names of tea, centered on Lu Yu's Chajing (茶經), Cai Xiang's Chalu (茶錄), and Tao Gu's Qingyilu (清異錄), with the Zhongguo cha wenhua da cidian (中國茶文化大辭典) used as a supplementary reference. The material is handled in three levels: core Tang-Song terms that directly support the argument, earlier or adjacent names that clarify the prehistory of reception and beverage hierarchy, and Ming-Qing or later items that are used only for genealogical comparison. The article interprets alternative names not as a simple list of synonyms but as a cultural-semiotic system that records three linked operations: technical discrimination, sensory remembrance through imagery, and social valuation through metaphor. By focusing especially on the conjunction of Song-dynasty diancha (點茶), doucha (鬪茶), and Jianyao (建窯) black-glazed cups, the article argues that naming helped produce what may be called judgeable sensation: a condition in which the surface, foam, color, and durability of tea could be publicly compared. In conclusion, Tang-Song alternative names constituted a lexical infrastructure that joined sensation, technique, and society, while later tea-person bynames show how this naming culture extended into literati identity and cultural authority.
本文以陸羽《茶經》、蔡襄《茶錄》、陶穀《清異錄》為中心,考察唐宋時 期茶的異名,並以《中國茶文化大辭典》作為補充參考資料。本文將相關材料分為三 個層次加以處理:第一,直接支撐本文論證的唐宋核心術語;第二,有助於說明茶之 接受前史與飲品等級秩序的早期或相鄰領域名稱;第三,僅用於譜系比較的明清及後 世條目。本文不把異名理解為簡單的同義詞列表,而將其解釋為一種文化符號學系 統。該系統記錄了三種相互關聯的運作:技術性辨別、借由意象完成的感官記憶,以 及通過隱喻實現的社會價值評定。本文尤其關注宋代點茶、鬥茶與建窯黑釉盞之間的 結合,認為命名參與生成了可稱為“可評判的感官”的狀態,即茶的湯麵、泡沫、色澤 與持久性能夠被公開比較的條件。總之,唐宋茶異名構成了一種聯結感官、技術與社 會的詞彙基礎設施;而後世茶人別號則顯示,這一命名文化進一步延伸至文人身份認 同與文化權威的建構之中。