복식문화연구 제17권 제4호 (p.535-547)

워싱 가공 종류에 따른 청바지의 패턴 연구

The Development of Jeans Pattern by Washing Finishing
키워드 :
jeans,청바지,denim fabric,데님직물,shrinkage rate,수축률,woshing finishing,워싱 가공

초록

This study presented a making method of jeans pattern with high fitness after deriving the appropriate shrinkage rate by material and washing process. For this purpose of this study, 6 jeans have been tested after washing finishing and we turned out appropriate shrinkage rate by evaluating the exterior of jeans and usage satisfaction. Then, a making method of jeans pattern was presented after applying the optimized shrinkage rate. According to the result of the exterior evaluation of test jeans, all 6 jeans were rated high with scores close to 3.5. Following the evaluation of satisfaction of usage by physical movement, the highest ranking was in the order of walking with normal steps, back bending 90°, chair sitting, climbing stairs, and squatting. The shrinkage rate by physical area showed the highest score in the order of pants length, waist circumference, thigh circumference, knee circumference, hem circumference, hips circumference. In addition, the shrinkage rate was higher in warp direction than weft direction after washing finishing. As for the result of addition and reduction of pattern measurements by parts of jeans, waist circumference was 2.6~5.2cm, hips circumference was 1.3~4.2cm, thigh circumference was 0.8~ 3.1cm and knee circumference was 0.7~2.5cm. Also, hem circumference was 0.5~1.8cm and pants length was 4.0~6.2cm. That is, this results showed a wide range of addition and reduction according to material and washing finishing.