The purpose of this study is to understand the concept of zero-waste design and to apply Sophia Vyzoviti’s folding techniques to develop a zero-waste fashion design method that contributes to sustainable fashion design. In this study, we explore the method and characteristics of zero-waste fashion design based on the concept of folding described in Sophia Vyzoviti’s book on folding techniques. Using the autonomy of Sophia Vyzoviti’s folding technique, four changeable folding fashion designs were developed and produced, demonstrating zero-waste fashion design. The results were as follows. First, the development of fashion designs using Sophia Vyzoviti’s folding techniques enabled the development and production of free and creative zero-waste fashion designs that were three-dimensional, continuous, fluid, and full of potential. Second, the production of zero-waste patterns was further developed into a transformable fashion design that can be used with geometric patterns. These folding techniques produced a fashion design method that could transform one piece of clothing, demonstration the potential for maintenance of creativity using a zero-waste design based on these folding techniques. Third, the double-faced fabric, Neoprene, was chosen as an appropriate material as it emphasizes the depth of folding with application of two colors and its cotton/polyester blend that is suitable for folding.

This study examines the formative characteristics of Fold architecture and how its properties are shown in the fashion of the modern work of Issey Miyake through analysis. In this research, the Fold classification criteria for analysis features that appeared in Issey Miyake fashion features were established through research literature on Fold architecture and leading research. Empirical data collection was conducted for Issey Miyake's work and collection by collecting photo materials, and design concepts and the results are analyzed in terms of features. Study ranges of Issey Miyake’s creative design development are Pleats Please, A-POC, 132.5 project, and collections from 2000 to 2014. The conclusion is as follows. First, design concepts presented in the Issey Miyake fashion features of Fold are Hybrid, topology, and uncertainty. Hybrid look for the meaning of fashion, which is the interaction between the wearer and garments. The concept of topology designs clothing, focusing on interrelationship of the body and clothing, and pays no attention to absolute size or the form of the clothing. The concept of uncertainty is an uncertain form that is infinitely expandable because all the elements have openness and uncertainty due to the determined incomplete state by the creator. Second, in the results presented in the Issey Miyake fashion features is the destruction of the boundary and diagram form. The destruction of the boundary is free from traditional clothing. The diagram form is a geometric form which does not create a Dart or Princess line.