The aim of this study is to enhance understanding of government and association-led fashion support programs through in-depth interviews with program managers, identifying areas for improvement. A phenomenological approach, which explores the essence of a particular phenomenon as it manifests in human life to obtain an in-depth understanding of how individuals who have experienced the phenomenon perceive it and its meanings, is adopted. Evaluation criteria for receipt of supports included qualitative factors such as design, branding, product viability, market potential, and completeness, assessed by a panel of academics, buyers, stylists, media critics, distribution experts, press personnel, and designers. Some support programs provided stage-specific assistance based on revenue or business duration, while others required brands at vastly different stages—for example, in their fifth year or over twenty years since launch-to compete within the same program. Challenges faced by designer brands included limited budgets, timing constraints, poor inter-agency communication, and administrative burdens. Suggested improvements involved engaging fashion industry experts in policy planning, integrating export data from overseas production, simplifying documentation, revising regulations, fostering cross-industry collaboration, and establishing fashion venture funds to support competitive brands and accelerate growth. Future plans include expanding support through cultural content and material innovation to boost global recognition of Korean fashion brands. Findings indicate that strategies for vitalizing emerging Korean fashion designers include cross-industry collaboration, expert-led policy development, securing specialized investment funds, and elevating Seoul Fashion Week’s significance as a global platform to increase brand visibility and facilitate domestic and international orders.

This study explores the operational challenges of emerging fashion designers in South Korea through in-depth interviews. The findings reveal significant challenges across key components of brand operation: product and image development, production, sales, promotion, and finance. Designers sought to express original narratives through their collections each season but encounter significant obstacles, such as limited production capacity, lack of marketing resources, and financial instability. Small order volumes hinder securing manufacturers, forcing designers to reinvest most revenue into sample development, with little left for labor or growth. Based on these insights, the study proposes three strategies to strengthen designer brand growth. First, it is necessary to ensure the efficient operation of numerous institutions and associations in Korea through systematic and continuous support at each stage of their programs. Each institution and association should independently run their own separate support programs to improve their expertise, optimizing the government’s limited budget. Second, adopting an agency model for emerging fashion designers, similar to entertainment agencies, can be effective. In this model, agency-affiliated celebrities act as muses for clothing lines and merchandise, enhancing sales via strategic promotion and marketing while encouraging mutual growth through revenue sharing. Third, the Korean fashion designer industry’s distribution structure needs reform.

This study focused on Issey Miyake’s 14 womenswear collections from spring 2018 to fall 2024. Reviews and reports on these collections and the designer were collected from the American Vogue and the Women’s Wear Daily websites using the keyword “Issey Miyake.” Drawing upon the dress criticism model, this study analyzed the form of Miyake’s fashion designs identifying styles, descriptive features, and aesthetic values through the collection photographs. Implicit evaluations were derived through external interpretations and sociocultural analysis based on reviews and reports of Miyake’s collections and designs. The results were as follows: Miyake’s fashion design is avant-garde in style. Descriptively, Miyake introduced variations in silhouette through the three-dimensionality of pleats, exploring a new sculptural order. The aesthetic values of Miyake’s works extend beyond the fashion show realm, embodying natural beauty wearable in daily life, artistic beauty through the three-dimensionality of pleats, and a pursuit of new aesthetic values challenging existing systems and traditional norms. Externally interpreted, Issey Miyake is recognized for his diverse, practical, and innovative designs, and as the first Japanese designer to present shows in Paris. Sociocultural interpretations characterize of Issey Miyake’s works as a blend of tradition and modernity, an expansion of form through pleats and three-dimensional sculptural qualities, the result of ongoing research and development, possessing timeless qualities transcending eras, and a pursuit of practicality and artistic excellence.

The purpose of this study is to examine the sociocultural meanings of flapper look in American society during the 1920s. Using the ProQuest database, I searched articles from The New York Times published between 1920 and 1929 for opinions and discussions on the flapper look. Keywords included “clothing,” “dress,” “fashion,” and “flapper,” and advertisements and articles on menswear, leisurewear, and bathing suits were excluded. In the resulting articles, I extracted the following sociocultural meanings: autonomy, activeness, practicality, attractiveness, and extravagance. Meanings were analyzed from the opinions and discussions focusing on skirt length, dresses that directly and indirectly exposed the body, heavy make-up, non-constricting underwear, the H-line dress, bobbed hair, hygiene, comfort, and consumption. In sum, the 1920s flapper look represented progressive characteristics such as autonomous and active womanhood and practicality, which matched the technological development of the time. However, the flapper look was commercialized and exploited to make women look attractive and extravagant. Even though American women had access to higher education, more economic power, and suffrage in the 1920s, they were limited in their ability to overcome social conventions and the power of consumerism. Understanding the double-sidedness of flapper look within the social context of the time would enhance the comprehension of the relationship between women’s lifestyles and changing fashion.