This study aims to identify the diverse types and characteristics of signatures that appear in contemporary fashion while primarily brand focusing on emerging Korean designer brands. To this end, qualitative content analysis using news articles and in-depth interviews with 15 emerging Korean designers were conducted. The news article analysis revealed six types of signatures: design based on formative sensibility expression, strategically constructed designer/brand identity, brand practices carried by cultural and spatial experiences, craftsmanship and custom production, contemporary reinterpretation of traditional designs, and text-based visual symbolic systems. The result of the in-depth interviews identified five types of signatures among emerging Korean designer brands: design expressions evolving from designer and brand identity, production emphasizing practicality and craftmanship, brand experiences based on spaces, visual narrative symbolism, and limited-edition items. Unlike established fashion brands that focus on fixed visual or textual elements through strategic planning by the established fashion brands, emerging Korean designer brands gradually and dynamically develop signatures which are grounded in personal philosophy, ethical values, and ongoing interaction with consumers. The findings of this study imply that the signatures of emerging Korean designer brands are not merely aesthetic repetitions, but are instead representations of evolving and situated expressions that interacts with and responds to socio-cultural changes and contexts.
With the increased importance of design creativity in global fashion marketplaces, there have arisen numerous promotional strategies for new fashion designers in Korea, yet little research has been done on this subject. This study examines the new fashion design promotion policies in Korea and their effects from the designer's perspective. First, we analyzed the contents of twenty-one strategies from thirteen organizations regarding the types of support from the strategies. As a result, four distinct types are identified: new designer recognition; information and consulting support; brand incubating; and marketing support. Next, we performed in-depth one-on-one interviews with eleven designers who had been awarded from one or more of the fashion design incubation policies. The results reveal that the incubating policies' cash rewards and space support are found to be most effective. In terms of the revised fashion and brand consulting policy, “brand operation” had an influence. In addition, fashion the new brand advertisement and marketing policy had positively influenced the “brand development.” However, throughout the interview, designers note that the quality of education and information provisions need some improvement. Furthermore, the designers indicate the lack of supervision and professionalism from the marketing departments. Based on this content, this study emphasizes the necessity of an effective fashion design promotion policy, and strategic and consistent support for the whole fashion promotion team. At the minimum, an integrated and united supervision by the organization is necessary and should be taken into consideration.