In the context of a globalized society where diversity, equity, and inclusion (DE&I) have emerged as pivotal values, the fashion industry is undergoing scrutiny for its practices related to body DE&I. This study examines the nature of the discourse surrounding body DE&I within the fashion industry, focusing on how such discussions are shaped, disseminated, and manifested in both the industry and broader society. Critical discourse analysis is applied by utilizing, content from the New York Times and leveraging Fairclough’s analytical framework encompassing textual, discursive, and social practices. The findings indicate that the New York Times emphasizes diversity, with a significant focus on the shapes and sizes of women’s bodies, developing a narrative centered around women’s bodies through visible and representative domains. The analysis suggests conflicted discourse, with prevailing critiques against the fashion industry’s standardization of beauty and superficial inclusivity efforts. Moreover, the industry’s adaptation to social demands for body DE&I is observed as sporadic, often leveraging non-normative bodies as a marketing strategy rather than genuinely embracing diversity. This study highlights the importance of continuous, in-depth discourse and social practices regarding DE&I within the fashion industry, as well as the need for systemic changes and policies that genuinely reflect societal demands for inclusivity. The findings provide a foundation for future investigations into the multifaceted relationship between fashion discourse, DE&I, and social practices, advocating for a more inclusive and critically aware fashion industry.

The body is an important object of costume expression, and the reflection of the aesthetics of the body according to age, culture, individual or group determines the form of the costume. In particular, British artist Leigh Bowery provided many designers and celebrities with original design ideas. Leigh Bowery’s costumes are related to the carnival concept. Thus, this study analyzed Leigh Bowery’s life and works, and examined Michael Bakhtin’s grotesque carnivalesque theory. Based on Bakhtin’s carnival theory around 100 works by Leigh Bowery, in the form of YouTube videos and DVD clips were analyzed in this study. The results of the analysis Leigh Bowery’s body and costume research are as follows. First, this study can define fetishism as a characteristic of costumes such as body suits, harnesses, high-heeled boots, and stockings, that stress the body. Second, the character of the body is not expressed as that of an idealized body, but the fat and ugly aspect are revealed. Third, Leigh Bowery’s costumes are characterized by ambiguity. The costumes blur the boundaries between women and men. Fourth, common sense, combined with normal and bizarre, brings out a strong sense of carnival humor with ridiculousness arising from the gap between reality and reality. His performance has had a significant impact on victims of discrimination or unequal treatment in sexual, racial, and age-related situations. This study should inspire many designers through the study of Leigh Bowery’s body expression and dress, but it also introduces fashion icons that are not well known in Korea.