본 연구에서는 중국산 발효 보이차 잎을 고농축으로 추출하였다. 또한 이 추출물에 대한 항산화 활성 및 항노화 효과를 평가하여, 화장품 산업에 응용하고자 하였다. 발효보이차 추출물의 수득율은 17.9%이었으며, 총 폴리페놀량은 37.5%, 탄닌 7.5%, 다당체류 25%, 기타 22%, 수분 8%가 함유되어 있었다. 발효보이차 추출물의 항산화 (in-vitro)활성은 30mg/mL에서는 33.7±1.8%, 50mg/mL에서는 39.4±2.2%의 소거효과를 보였다. 비교군인 초산토코페롤과 녹차추출물 보다 높은 항산화 효과를 보였다. 발효보이차 추출물의 콜라겐 합성율(in-vitro)은 1 mg/mL에서는 102.9±9.9%, 5 mg/mL에서는 111.5±9.9%, 10 mg/mL에서는 122.7±12.2%, 30 mg/mL에서는 131.5±13.7%의 높은 합성능을 보였다 (*p-value?0.05, n=3). 8시간 후의 피부보습효과(in-vivo)는 비교군보다 38.5%의 높은 효과를 보였다. 이 보습력은 도포전보다 32.7% 상승하였다. 발효보이차 추출물은 화장품산업에서 보습효과를 가진 원료로 응용이 가능할 것으로 기대한다.

다양한 화장품에 응용을 위하여 제주산 유채오일 추출물을 대상으로 PIT유화시스템을 이용한 나노에멀젼을 제조하였다. 천연 유채오일 추출물은 n-헥산을 용매로 사용하여 추출하였다. 천연유채오일 추출물은 엷은 노란색의 점성을 가진 액체이었고, 수율은 43±2.5%이었다. 산가는 2.76±0.5이었고, 비중은 0.89±0.05 이었다. 20wt%의 유채오일을 사용한 PIT-Yuche-NE의 입자크기는 50-120nm (평균입자크기: 82±5.8nm)이었고, 제타 포텐셜은 -29.5mV 이었다. 이것은 (PEG)5-30 지방산 에테르를 사용하기 때문에 열역학적으로 안정하였다. 특징적인 결과로부터 얻은 몇 개의 결론을 다음과 같이 나열하였다. 첫째, DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical)방법을 이용한 자유 라디칼 소거력을 측정하였다. PIT-Yuche-NE의 항산화력은 37.2±6.7%이었고, 비교군인 10 mg/mL의 PIT-Toco-NE(토코페롤 20wt% 나노에멀젼)은 28.8±6.5%, 10 mg/mL의 PIT-Nokcha-NE (녹차추출물 20wt% 나노에멀젼)은 29.6±7.2%이었다. 둘째, PIT-Yuche-NE의 콜라겐합성율은 148±15.2% 이었고, 동일 농도에서 비교군인 PIT-Toco-NE은 121±13.5%, PIT-Nokcha-NE은 95±12.7%이었다. 셋째, 6시간 후, Aramo-TS를 사용한 Yuche-CRM의 피부보습효과는 47±3.9% (*p-value￡0.05, n=7)이었다. 반면, Toco-CRM은 30±5.2%(*p-value￡0.05, n=7)이었고, Nokcha-CRM은 35±4.5%이었다. 따라서 Yuche-CRM은 다른 두 크림보다 높은 보습효과를 보였다. 최종적으로 본 연구는 화장품 산업 및 제약산업에서도 폭넓게 응용될 것으로 기대한다.

Provitamin B5 liquid crystal (PVB5-LC) was the new emulsion system to enhance moisturizing activity on the skin. In this study, it should be mentioned that PVB5-LC could be prepared with the main compound of hydrogenated lecithin (HL) in oil-in water (O/W) emulsion. The key ingredient of humectants was contained 2% of provitamin B5 (PVB5) into the PVB5-LC. The best suitable compositions of PVB5-LC were made from 4.0 wt% of HL, 4.0 wt% of cetostearyl alcohol (CSA) as emulsifier and gelling agent, 3.0 wt% of 1,3-butylene glycol (1,3-BG) and 2.0 wt% of glycerin as moisturizers, 3.0 wt% of cyclomethicone (CMC), 3.0 wt% of isononanoate (ININ), 3.0 wt% of capric/caprylic triglyceride (CCTG), 3.0 wt% of macadamia nut oil (MNO) as emollients. As the analytical result of PVB5-LC, it could know that the distribution range of particle size was 0.14 to 12.37 m level (mean size 3.24 m). It was certified the multi lamellar phase around the droplet of liquid crystal when observed the droplet particles through a polarization microscope. And it clinically was tested the effectiveness of moisturizing activity (in-vivo) compared with control sample (O/W emulsion). The effectiveness of moisturizing activity of PVB5-LC with Skincon-200EX after 6 hours went up 49.0% (p〈0.05, n=20) whereas the effectiveness of moisturizing activity of generally O/W emulsion cream was 25.7% (p〈005, n=20). Also, in case of Comeometer CM-825, the moisturizing activity of PVB5-LC after 6 hours rose 36.6% (p〈0.05, n=20) whereas the effectiveness of moisturizing activity of generally O/W emulsion cream was 10.8%. Therefore, it was known that the effectiveness moisturizing activity of PVB5-LC with HL was remarkably superior compared with O/W emulsion cream.

In recent reports, the multiple reproductive defects such as cryptorchidism, hypospadias, epididymal cysts, low sperm counts, and testicular cancers are increased in humans, and these changes were doubted by the chemicals with estrogenic or antiandrogenic activities in our environment. To compare the effects of neonatal exposure of di (n-butyl) phthalate and flutamide on the development of reproductive organs and to identify the specific mechanisms of these abnormalities related to the male reproducton, Sprague-Dawley neonate male rats were injected subcutaneously during 5-14 days after birth with corn oil (control), flutamide (0.05, 0.1, and 0.5 mg/animal) and DBP (5, 10, and 20 mg/animal). Animals were killed at 31 (immature) and 42 (pubertal) days of age respectively and blood was collected from abdominal aorta for serum testosterone analysis. Testes, epididymides, seminal vesicles, ventral prostate, levator ani plus bulbocavernosus muscle (LABC), cowpers glands and glans penis were weighed. Expression of steroid hormone receptors (AR and ER) was examined in the testes and ventral prostate. At 31 days of age, ventral prostate, seminal vesicles, LABC, and cowpers glands significantly decreased in the flutamide (0.5 mg/animal) and DBP (20 mg/animal), but serum testosterone levels were not changed. Flutamide slightly delayed the testes descent at the high dose (0.5 mg/animal), but DBP did not show any significant effect on the testes descent at all doses. DBP and flutamide decreased the expression of AR protein in the testes but did not affect the expression of ERa and ER protein in the testes. At 42 days of age, ventral prostate, seminal vesicles, and cowpers glands weights were still significantly decreased at the high dose of flutamide (0.5 mg/animal) and DBP (20 mg/animal), but the weights of testes and epididymides were not different. Serum testosterone decreased significantly in DBP treated animals and slightly, not significantly, in flutamide group. While DBP still significantly decreased the expression of AR protein in testis, flutamide recovered from downregulation of AR protein and did not affect the expression of ERa and ER protein in the testes. Based on these results, flutamide and DBP have shown several similar patterns in reproductive abnormalitis, but some marked differences which may be caused by different acting mechanism.

In this study, it should be mentioned that Lipid-LCG can be prepared with the main compound of hydrogenated lecithin in oil-in water emulsion. The results of its physical property and stability are as follows. First, the best suitable compositions of Lipid-LCG are made from 4.0wt% of the hydrogenated lecithin, 4.0wt% of cetostearyl alcohol as emulsifier and gelling agent, 3.0wt% of butylene glycol and 2.0wt% glycerin as moisturizers, 3.0wt% of cyclomethicone, 3.0wt% of isononyl-isononanoate, 3.0wt% of capric/caprylic triglycerides, 3.0wt% of macadamia oil as emollients. Second, As the optimum conditions to form Lipid-LCG, which figured out 6.0 ± 1.0 for pH level, 32kg/mm, min for hardness to make a .essence to be formed the ternary phase of liquid crystal(multi-lamellar type). Third, as the analytical result of this system, it obtained that particle size is 1~8μm level, and is certified with it at 400 and 1,000 magnifications by microscope. The stability of Lipid-LCG is very stable on condition of a low temperature (4℃), a room temperature (25℃) and a high temperature (40℃), which is not to be split in for a long time(for 3-month). We produced our own moisturizing essence, which has a good affinity to skin by means of this system.

We investigated the property of formation of mono-vesicle(designated nano-some) with using of the combined co-emulsifiers and phospholipid. Nano-some was prepared with hydrogenated lecithin(HL) and diethanolamine cetyl phosphate(DEA-CP) by swelling reaction. Kojic acid and kojic dipalmitate could be made stabilization by nano-some system using microfluidizer(MF). Nano-some has a good affinity to skin by means of this system. The composition was compounded by 2% of hydrogenated lecithin (phosphatidyl choline contained with 75%, 0.5% of DEA-CP and 0.5% of diglyceryl dioleate (DGDO). To make nano-some, several conditions of MF have to be considered as follows. The optimum pH was 6.0. The pressure was 10,000psi and passage temperature was at 306℃. The nano-some base was passed to homogenize continually 3 times through MF. The Particle size distributions of the vesicles were with in 57~75.7nm(mean 66nm) by measuring the Zetasizer-3000. Zeta potential of vesicles with 3 times passage through MF was -24.8mV. Formations for nano-some vesicle certificated photograph by scanning electric magnification (SEM). Stability of nano-some was very good for 6months. The turbidity was very good transparency compared nano-some with liposome. It was formed the mono vesicle in the opposite direction to be formed the multi-lamellar vesicle of liposome.

Cosmetic industries have recently developed sun-block products, which are composed of W/O or O/W emulsion system. It was very difficult for waterproofing product to show the stability in W/O emulsion with TiO2. To enhance the stability of W/O emulsion, it needs to be combined with the water and oil soluble components as the gelling agents. The emulsifiers used in W/O were 3.0% of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, 2.0% of sorbitan sesquioleate as the basic emulsifiers, and 0.6% of quaternium-18 bentonite and 1.5% of dextrin palmitate as stabilizer were used. The content of titanium dioxide was optimized up to 8.0%. Titanium dioxide was used as the UV scattering powder coated with Al2O3(UV-sperse T40/TN). The sunscreen cream prepared with W/O emulsion system by using QB and DP showed higher stability than that of W/O emulsion system by using each QB and DP. W/O emulsion from Formula 3 for passing one year was very durable more than F1 and F2. Within W/O emulsion by observing F1, F2 and F3 for one year, F3 was more excellent than F2 and F3 when they were observed at RT, 4℃, 40℃, because F3 used the mixed QB and DP in W/O emulsion. The zeta potential for F1, F2, and F3 after one year were 21, 30 and 43, respectively. From these result F3 was found best stable emulsion. The in-vitro SPF value for F3 was 35 for the initial product at room temperature and also, the in-vitro SPF values of F3 was 32 for after one year. Finally, the mean in-vivo SPF value of 10 volunteers for F3 was 27.3 by the Korea cosmetic association made the rules of SPF.

The liposomes have been developed in many drugs and cosmetics fields. The liposomes prepared with main compounds of the intercellular lipids and lecithin. Amphiphile nonionic surfactants used for (PEG) n-sitosterol(n=5), diethanolamine cetylphosphate. The effect of gelation for liposomes have been on swelling reaction which have been mixed phospholipid with polyol-group at the high temperature. There were very good encapsulated properties of the active ingredients whether hydrophilic-group(magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, allantoin, sodium hyaluronate) and hydrophobic-group(vitamin-E acetate, vitamin-A palmitate). Optimum condition of liposomes were passed five times in the microfluidizer(700bar), wetting reaction temperature was at 95±5℃ for a hours. Particle size distribution of the vesicles should be within range 50-560nm(mean 200nm). The stability of liposomes for the course of time was stabilized for six months at 45℃. Application of the cosmetic was prepared moisturizing cream with liposomes of the phospholipid base.