KOREASCHOLAR

This study is on the changing pattern of fish-and-shellfish uses during the last two thirds of Chosun period on the premise that they are influenced by development of fishing technology. With a literary approach, this paper researches how fish-and-shellfish production and consumption pattern changed, especially in relation to technological development of fisheries. First, we examine into the changes of fishery production. And next, we analyze the kind and cooking method of fish-and-shellfish in [Eum-sik-di-mi-bang](1670) and [Gyu-hap-chong-seo](1815). The analysis of two books revealed that there were significant differences in fish-and-shellfish uses. Because the two books were written with a gap of 145 years and the development of fishing technology and remarkable changes of fishery production affected on the fish-and-shellfish uses. Due to primitive fishing tools and skills, fresh-water and reverse-river-fish and shellfish had been caught in substantial amount until the middle ages of Chosun period. As a result, the availability of seafood were limited extremely even in the upper classes. These situations are evidenced by the analysis of [Eum-sik-di-mi-bang]. Only 12 kinds of fish-and-shellfish are described in [Eum-sik-di-mi-bang]. Most of the sesfoods is mollusc which is easy to catch. As for the salt-water fish, dried cod and dried herring were mentioned. Mullet, the reverse-water-fish, is used most frequently. Only one kind of 'Hoe', which needs extreme freshness, is described. This means that the use of fresh fish-and-shellfish was very limited to some kinds which could be caught near the village. As the netting fishery began to be developed in the 18th century, the production of some salt-water fishes, such as anchovy, shrimp, yellow corvina, pollack, and herring, had increased remarkably to make marine resources more available. Small fish, such as anchovy and shrimp were preserved as 'Jeot-gal' and sold nationwide. Therefore, 'Jeot-gal' and seafood could be used in Kimchi around this time and had a deep influence on the change of Kimchi in taste and nutrition. In [Gyu-hap-chong-seo], 33 kinds of fish-and-shellfish are described. Including cod and herring, 17 kinds of sea water fish and mollusc are mentioned. Some of these are consumed in fresh state, neither as dried nor as salted. Because the merchants promoted the transport of seafoods to other regions according to the growth of commercial economy. As a result the diet of the people could be enriched by the various seafoods.

• 김희선 | Kim, Hee-Sun