KOREASCHOLAR

"Gyuhapchongseo" was published in 1809, and introduced the cooking method of the noble class in the late Joseon dynasty. The characteristics of the side dishes in "Gyuhapchongseo" are as follows. Firstly, red pepper was used as whole red pepper, shredded red pepper, powdered red pepper, or Korean hot pepper paste. Secondly, salt-fermented fish was used in some forms of Kimchi, including Sukbakgi, Dong A Sukbakgi, and Gyochimhae. Thirdly, to retain the juiciness of meat during roasting, meat was spread cold water on the surface, dipped into the washing water of rice or wrapped with wet paper. Fourth, to improve the visual effect of a dish, cooked foods were displayed with various color schemes, panfried foods with two tones (egg white and yellow) of color on each side and the use of radish pigmented with deep red color. On examination of the characteristics of food in "Gyuhapchongseo", I would suggest applicable practices for the present cuisine. The use of gravy produced from the boiling down of fish flesh could raise the nutritive value of Kimchi. In "Gyuhapchongseo", Yak po (semi-dried minced beef) is noted as being good for elderly people with bad teeth. A steamed dish with dog meat in Dong A in "Gyuhapchongseo" is made by hollowing out Dong A and putting a dog in it to cook the dog meat to well done in a fire made with the hulls of rice. This technique could be used to present cuisine for steamed and roasted dishes using food ingredients such as pumpkin, sweet pumpkin, and overripe cucumber.

• 김업식 | Kim, Up-Sik
• 한명주 | Han, Myung-Joo