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Characteristics of the traditional Atlas fabrics of the Xinjiang Uygur Minority Ethnic Group, China KCI 등재

중국 신장 위구르족 전통 아틀라스(Atlas) 직물의 특성

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복식문화연구 (The Research Journal of the Costume Culture)
복식문화학회 (The Costume Culture Association)
초록

The study investigates Atlas fabrics, the Ikat weaving method used by the Uygur People in Xinjiang, China. Based on domestic and foreign papers and other literature, different cultural characteristics of Ikat fabrics from various regions are compared. Following a theoretical investigation, characteristics of fabrics from the Indian Patola, Indonesian Ikat, Japanese Kasuri, and Uzbekistan Adras are summarized and compared with the characteristics of pattern, color, and manufacturing process of Atlas silk from Xinjiang China (also an Ikat fabric). The results are as follows. First, although the weaving process used for Ikat fabrics differs from country to country according to different national cultures, lifestyles, colors, patterns, and usage methods, they are all Ikat dyed fabrics. Therefore, they are all regarded as precious objects symbolizing a certain social status, and are used as a gift for special occasions, such as weddings. Second, the form of the pattern varies. Indian Patola has clear outlines and regular patterns, while the patterns of Japanese Kasuri are mainly inspired by folk life ideas. Indonesian Ikat contains influences from indigenous tribes, and Uzbekistan’s and China’s Atlas textiles are influenced by geography, religion, and national culture, including bright colors and pattern designs inspired by plants, musical instruments, and geometric figures. Finally, the patterns and colors of Xinjiang Atlas fabrics present strong ethnic characteristics. Unlike the Uzbekistan fabric which is mostly influenced by Islam, human and animal patterns would not feature in Xinjiang Atlas patterns, which mostly consist of long strips, repeated in a neat and orderly form.

목차
Abstract
I. Introduction
Ⅱ. Ikat Fabric Background
    1. India Ikat
    2. Indonesia Ikat
    3. Japan Ikat
    4. Central Asia Uzbekistan Ikat
Ⅲ. Xinjiang Uygur MinoritiesTraditional Fabrics’s Atlas
    1. Regional and religious environments of XinjiangUygur
    2. Characteristics of Xinjiang Uygur clothing
    3. The background of Atlas in Xinjiang Uygurminorities
Ⅳ. Conclusion
References
저자
  • Lifeng Wang(한양대학교 의류학과 박사과정) | 왕리봉
  • Younhee Lee(한양대학교 의류학과) | 이연희 Corresponding author