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Study on the morning ritual costumes of the members of the Ming dynasty imperial family KCI 등재

명대(明代) 황실 구성원의 조회의례(朝會儀禮) 복식(服飾) 연구

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복식문화연구 (The Research Journal of the Costume Culture)
복식문화학회 (The Costume Culture Association)
초록

The morning ritual was a rite whereby a morning audience with the emperor was held for feudal lords sovereigns and subjects living in the precincts, monarchs or foreign envoys of the outskirts of the capital, and other ethnic group. Distinction between the main and subordinate rituals, changes in the ceremony according to the times, and the position or rank of those participating in the rite, were factors that directly affected the costumes worn for ritual. Accordingly, in this paper, the costumes worn by members of the Ming dynasty (emperor, prince imperial, prince) were examined in terms of the period and detailed ceremonies with a focus on the morning ritual and costume systems presented in the official historical records. Through this study, only Mian-fu (冕服) and Pi-bian-fu (皮弁服) were defined by the costume system ase costumes worn in the morning ritual. However, through comparative analysis with the morning ritual system, it was confirmed that Tongtian-guan-fu (通天 冠服), Yishan-guan-fu (翼善冠服), and Bianfu (便服: slightly casual wear) were also worn. It is worth noting that the color of Gunlong-pao (袞龍袍) was differentiated according to status; the Emperor wore yellow, the Prince Imperial and lower levels wore red, which was the traditional perception of academia. However, following confirmation of the custom costume for the morning ritual, it was confirmed that the color of this differentiation appeared during the 3rd year of Emperor Yongle of Ming (1305). Previously five traditional colors (blue, red, yellow, white, and black) were used for the season.

목차
Abstract
I. Introduction
Ⅱ. Theoretical Background
Ⅲ. Methods
Ⅳ. Results
    1. The ritual’s kind and the status participating in the rite
    2. Costumes worn by members of the Ming dynasty
Ⅴ. Conclusions
References
저자
  • Shaohua Wen(故宮博物院) | 온소화
  • Yeonwoo Choi(단국대학교 전통의상학과) | 최연우 Corresponding author