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A study on the institutional changes of the Jinhyeongwan and Yanggwan and their applicability to figure representations in the Goryeo Dynasty KCI 등재

진현관(進賢冠)과 양관(梁冠)의 제도적 변천 및 고려시대 인물상 적용 가능성에 대한 고찰

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  • URLhttps://db.koreascholar.com/Article/Detail/449106
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복식문화연구 (The Research Journal of the Costume Culture)
복식문화학회 (The Costume Culture Association)
초록

This study examines the origin and development of the Jinhyeongwan, a Gwanmo worn with Jobok, highlighting its evolution in the Chinese context and analyzing its characteristics in cultural heritage from the Goryeo Dynasty. This study aims to clarify the nature of the Gwanmo depicted in Goryeo stone human figures, wall paintings, and Buddhist paintings. The Chipogwan, tracing its roots to the Baekpogwan and Byeon, gave rise to the Jinhyeongwan. The Jinhyeongwan evolved in form and regulation from the Han Dynasty, becoming an official Gwanmo by the Song Dynasty. The Ming Dynasty reorganized its designation and institutional framework as Yangwan. Meanwhile, neighboring states such as Liao, Jin, and Yuan adopted the Jinhyeongwan as a Gwanmo worn with Jobok under Song influence, suggesting a similar impact on Goryeo. Goryeo Dynasty figures often show individuals in red Jobok with Bangsim-Gokryeong, holding ritual tablets. The Gwanmo worn by these figures closely resembles the Jinhyeongwan from the Tang and Song Dynasties in overall structure and composition. This study enhances textual records with visual materials, addressing the limitations of written sources and closely analyzing the interpretation of Gwanmo in Goryeo cultural heritage as Jinhyeongwan or Yangwan. Additionally, it provides a foundation for a more comprehensive understanding of the Gwanmo system reflected in Goryeo cultural heritage.

목차
Abstract
I. Introduction
Ⅱ. The Origin and Development of theJinhyeongwan
Ⅲ. Changes in the Terminology andInstitutional Systems of theJinhyeongwan and Yanggwan after the10th Century
    1. Jinhyeongwan of the Song Dynasty
    2. Jinhyeongwan and Yanggwan of the Liao (遼),Jin (金), and Yuan (元) dynasties
    3. Yanggwan of the Ming Dynasty
Ⅳ. Jinhyeongwan and Yanggwan in theGoryeo Dynasty Figure Depictions
    1. Court dress system of officials in the GoryeoDynasty
    2. Jinhyeongwan and Yanggwan in the GoryeoDynasty figure depictions
Ⅴ. Conclusion
References
저자
  • Yeojin Kim(M.A. Candidate, Dept. of Fashion Industry, Ewha Womans University, Korea) | 김여진 (이화여자대학교 의류산업학과 석사수료)
  • Seo-Young Kang(Assistant Professor, Dept. of Fashion Industry, Ewha Womans University, Korea) | 강서영 (이화여자대학교 의류산업학과 조교수) Corresponding author