간행물

복식문화연구 KCI 등재 The Research Journal of the Costume Culture 服飾文化硏究

권호리스트/논문검색
이 간행물 논문 검색

권호

34권 1호 (2026년 2월) 9

1.
2026.02 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study examines the appearance characteristics of collars produced through fused deposition modeling (FDM) 3D printing by analyzing the interaction between collar types and infill structures. Three collar types-stand, convertible, and shirt-and three infill structures-rectilinear, gyroid, and honeycomb-were selected to generate nine collar samples. All samples were modeled in CLO 2025 with identical base dimensions and printed under consistent FDM settings using TPU filament to ensure comparable structural conditions. Appearance evaluations were conducted by 12 experts in garment construction and fashion design through an online survey on the naturalness and visual quality of each collar using a 5-point Likert scale. The findings revealed that the optimal infill structure varied depending on collar type. The stand collar exhibited stable appearance evaluations across all infill structures, with the gyroid structure receiving the highest evaluations. The convertible collar showed the greatest sensitivity to infill structure, with the rectilinear infill structure producing the highest ratings for both naturalness and visual quality. The shirt collar demonstrated the lowest scores overall due to its structural complexity; however, the honeycomb structure was relatively more suitable. ANOVA results confirmed statistically significant differences among collar types for the rectilinear and gyroid structures, but not the honeycomb structure. This study provides empirical evidence that internal geometry plays a critical role in determining the silhouette quality of 3D-printed garment components. The results offer practical guidelines for selecting infill structures tailored to specific collar shapes and contribute foundational insights toward the development of modular, seamless garment systems.
4,900원
2.
2026.02 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study examines the origin and development of the Jinhyeongwan, a Gwanmo worn with Jobok, highlighting its evolution in the Chinese context and analyzing its characteristics in cultural heritage from the Goryeo Dynasty. This study aims to clarify the nature of the Gwanmo depicted in Goryeo stone human figures, wall paintings, and Buddhist paintings. The Chipogwan, tracing its roots to the Baekpogwan and Byeon, gave rise to the Jinhyeongwan. The Jinhyeongwan evolved in form and regulation from the Han Dynasty, becoming an official Gwanmo by the Song Dynasty. The Ming Dynasty reorganized its designation and institutional framework as Yangwan. Meanwhile, neighboring states such as Liao, Jin, and Yuan adopted the Jinhyeongwan as a Gwanmo worn with Jobok under Song influence, suggesting a similar impact on Goryeo. Goryeo Dynasty figures often show individuals in red Jobok with Bangsim-Gokryeong, holding ritual tablets. The Gwanmo worn by these figures closely resembles the Jinhyeongwan from the Tang and Song Dynasties in overall structure and composition. This study enhances textual records with visual materials, addressing the limitations of written sources and closely analyzing the interpretation of Gwanmo in Goryeo cultural heritage as Jinhyeongwan or Yangwan. Additionally, it provides a foundation for a more comprehensive understanding of the Gwanmo system reflected in Goryeo cultural heritage.
5,400원
3.
2026.02 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study examines the reinterpretation and application of imagery from Greek goddesses in modern fashion brands, focusing on symbolic meaning and design strategies. Using qualitative case studies of selected global luxury and outdoor fashion brands, it analyzes four goddess archetypes—Hera, Aphrodite, Athena, and Artemis— and examines how their mythological attributes are translated into modern fashion expressions and brand identities. Hera embodies authority and order, is reflected in luxury fashion through structured silhouettes, refined tailoring, and classical aesthetics that emphasize dignity and formality. Aphrodite symbolizes beauty and sensuality through designs that highlight the body, use fluid materials, and express femininity, reframing sensuality as an empowered form of self-representation. Athena, embodying wisdom and martial strength, is reinterpreted as the image of the intelligent and autonomous modern woman through architectural silhouettes, armor-inspired details, and a restrained yet powerful visual language. In contrast, Artemis represents nature, independence, and guardianship, reflected in outdoor fashion brands through sustainability-driven practices, functional design, and ethical management instead of explicit visual symbols. The findings indicate that contemporary fashion brands selectively adapt mythological archetypes fit brand values, consumer identities, and broader socio-cultural discourses, including feminism and sustainability. This study contributes to fashion and cultural studies by demonstrating the continued relevance of ancient mythological symbolism in contemporary fashion branding.
5,100원
4.
2026.02 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study investigates how clothing hygiene has been covered and framed in Korean news articles published between January 1, 1960, and August 31, 2025. A total of 437 articles were collected from the official websites and digital archives of four major daily newspapers (KyungHyang, The Dong-A Ilbo, The Chosun Daily, and The JoongAng). Term frequency (TF), term frequency-inverse document frequency (TF-IDF), and n-gram analyses were conducted in R and complemented with qualitative keyword-in-context reading. Latent Dirichlet Allocation (LDA) topic modeling (k=5) was also performed to identify major topics and their trends across periods. Findings indicate a recurring configuration in which (1) risk visibility shapes problem framing, (2) solution-oriented innovations in technologies, products, and services are proposed, (3) reporting expands to include consumer-oriented information on choosing and using solutions, and (4) governance through rules, certification, and third-party verification legitimizes claims and reallocates responsibility. Early coverage focused on household practices—laundering, drying, and sunlight disinfection—to manage humidity, odor, mold, and skin diseases. From the 1980s onward, functional and antibacterial textiles and institutional interventions (e.g., scrutiny of laundry services and regulatory or certification schemes) became more prominent. In the 2010s and from 2020 to August 2025, appliance-centered solutions —garment care appliances, dryers, and washing machines—dominated, with growing emphasis on smart, AI-enabled functions, alongside debates over sterilization claims and chemical safety. Overall, responsibility shifted from individual households toward a broader socio-technical network of firms, service providers, certifiers, regulators, and consumers.
6,300원
5.
2026.02 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study examines group differences in AI dependence, self-efficacy, and design fixation based on learners’ AI utilization experience, and further explores the relationships between AI dependence and perception-related variables within an AI-based design education context. To this end, I surveyed 42 learners who participated in an AI-based design class. I then performed data analysis in IBM SPSS Statistics 26, using one-way analysis of variance (ANOVA) and Pearson correlation. The ANOVA revealed statistically significant group differences in AI dependence by AI usage level, but no significant differences in self-efficacy or design fixation. Furthermore, age and professional experience showed no significant influence on most variables. Meanwhile, the correlation analysis revealed that AI dependence was significantly positively associated with design fixation, but not with self-efficacy. These results suggest that, in AI-based design education, learners’ perceptions and attitudes are not strongly differentiated by personal background factors such as age or professional experience, but are instead associated with their experience with AI use and perceived dependence on AI. By distinguishing and analyzing AI utilization and AI dependence, this study provides empirical evidence that contributes to a more nuanced understanding of learners’ cognitive perceptions in AI-based design education in practice.
4,000원
6.
2026.02 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study explores the use of Midjourney (V6) by fashion design undergraduates for AI-supported ideation, focusing on how outcomes differ based on fashion-domain competence and prompt/parameter instruction. A focused ethnographic, comparative case-study design was used to observe a short collection-development module. Data included Discord prompt and parameter logs, generated image outputs (mood boards, look proposals, and pattern drafts), one-on-one interviews, classroom observation notes, and expert co-coding and qualitative evaluation. Participants were organized into four groups by crossing Basic vs. Advanced Fashion competence (BF/AF) with Basic vs. Advanced Prompt training (BP/AP): BF-BP, AF-BP, BF-AP, and AF-AP. BF-BP depended on repetitive/imaginary use and generic descriptors, resulting in visually appealing yet conceptually fragmented and low-feasibility results. AF-BP leveraged a richer domain vocabulary to improve item-level adequacy but struggled to maintain collection-level consistency, leading to the use of external editing tools such as Photoshop and Illustrator for portfolio-level refinement. BF-AP quickly mastered commands and parameters (e.g., /describe, --chaos, --stylize, --ar, --tile, --no, --sref, --cref), generating appealing concept imagery while failing to convert outputs into wearable garments and cohesive collections. AF-AP combined advanced fashion knowledge with strategic parameter sequencing— broad exploration, followed by consistency control and selective refinement—achieving the most coherent, feasible outcomes and positioning AI as an early-stage accelerator rather than a substitute for core design and making skills. Overall, this study proposes “parameter literacy” as a domain-specific extension of GenAI literacy and offers a parameter–process mapping (divergent generation, consistency control, and editing/refinement) to enhance fashion curricula.
5,100원
7.
2026.02 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study examines the design characteristics and sociocultural significance of the “balletcorelook” through the lens of Jean Baudrillard’s theory of simulacra, establishing a systematic analytical framework for collections from 2022 F/W to 2025 S/S. A total of 47 magazine articles and 161 photographs of collection images were collected. To analyze the designs, a framework for three stages of simulacral transformation was implemented: partial morphological and stylistic transformation, transformation of additional design elements and decoration, and emergence of a replica far removed from the original ballet outfits and accessories. Analysis of design characteristics confirmed that balletcore looks incorporate ballet costumes—originally specialized attire—into everyday clothing, creating a sense of fantasy. This fantasy involved deconstructing or coexisting contrasting design characteristics. The study shows the use of ballet costume elements as fantastical signs in balletcore looks, a phenomenon that intensifies through various stages of transformation. Balletcore looks transcend the functional reality of dancewear, transforming into representations of hyperreality, where replicas replace the original, serving as a key approach for designers to express their personal interpretations. These simulacral phenomena carry sociocultural significance, indicating that designers’ use of ballet costume elements in balletcore looks, alongside public consumption of balletcore, reflects the psychological desires of the masses to willingly engage in seductive illusions for emotional fulfillment and vitality in hyperreal fantasy.
18,000원
8.
2026.02 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study examine differences in consumers’ knowledge of environmentally sustainable materials based on prior purchase experience with eco-friendly fashion products. Furthermore, it explores how this experience relates to variations in attitudes toward eco-friendly products, subjective norms, and purchase intention. For this study, an online survey was conducted using quota sampling based on gender and age group (20, 30, 40s). The collected data were analyzed using descriptive statistics and t-tests. Among the respondents, 221 had prior experience purchasing eco-friendly fashion products (i.e., purchasers), while 192 did not (i.e., non-purchasers). In results, purchasers demonstrated significantly greater awareness that products made from organic cashmere, organic hemp, recycled polyester, recycled nylon, recycled cotton, alternative leather, alternative fur, zero-waste materials, and biodegradable materials qualify as environmentally friendly. However, organic cotton was widely recognized as environmentally friendly by both groups, resulting in no significant difference in purchase intention for this material. Additionally, purchasers prioritized material composition, production methods, and environmental impact more than non-purchasers when deciding to purchase eco-friendly. Purchasers also exhibited more favorable attitudes, higher subjective norms, and stronger purchase intentions toward eco-friendly fashion products than did non-purchasers. These findings offer valuable insights for developing targeted educational and marketing strategies for eco-friendly fashion products, tailored to consumers’ varying levels of purchase experience and environmental awareness.
4,900원
9.
2026.02 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study examines whether a 3D virtual fitting system can function as an efficient digital pattern-making method for women’s jeans to complement or replace conventional 2D measurement-based design. It further explores the potential application of virtual fitting-based pattern design processes in digital fashion education and the apparel industry. To develop 3D virtual fitting-based pants, a close-fitting 3D pants pattern was generated by flattening an avatar’s lower-body surface. Initial evaluations necessitated adjustments in dart volume and placement for both the front and back panels. Stress analysis further revealed high concentrations near the crotch, requiring modifications to the crotch extension. The pattern was iteratively refined using real-time feedback from appearance changes, stress distribution, and fitting errors during virtual fitting. Post-modification evaluation results showed significant improvements across all appearance evaluation categories. Notable enhancements were found in key fit factors, including dart position and length, crotch appearance, and hip fit. Subsequently, a digital jeans pattern was designed based on the refined close-fitting 3D pants pattern. Stepwise modifications informed by virtual fitting data led to improvements in both appearance and silhouette completeness. Comparative evaluation of jeans produced using the proposed 3D-derived pattern and a conventional 2D pattern showed no significant differences across most assessment items. However, the 3D-derived pattern scored significantly higher in critical areas such as thigh appearance and knee-line positioning. This indicates that 3D-based pattern design is particularly effective in areas requiring accurate reflection of 3D body curvature and movement characteristics.
4,900원