간행물

복식문화연구 KCI 등재 The Research Journal of the Costume Culture 服飾文化硏究

권호리스트/논문검색
이 간행물 논문 검색

권호

34권 2호 (2026년 4월) 10

1.
2026.04 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
In recent years, as the global fashion industry has rediscovered ethnic and religious elements, Tibetan Buddhist monastic attire has garnered attention from both the design and academic communities due to its striking aesthetics and profound symbolism. This study employs a combined approach of systematic literature review and field investigation to academically elucidate the cultural orthdoxy of traditional monastic attire, providing modern fashion design with a profound philosophical narrative that transcends superficial imitation in an effort to achieve a balance between tradition and innovation. The findings reveal that Tibetan Buddhist monastic attire absorbed Indian Buddhist forms during the Tubo period while adapting to local conditions. Following sectarian divisions, gradual differentiation emerged, culminating in the 15th century as a crucial symbol of authority within the theocratic system. Post-1960, globalization drove simplification in materials and craftsmanship, yet core structures and symbolic systems persisted. Overall, monastic attire employs restrained monochromatic tones like red and ochre to embody the spirit of spiritual practice. Its loose, ill-fitting structure emphasizes a non-individualized image, while fabric materials and accessories convey levels of spiritual attainment and hierarchical status. Sectarian distinctions primarily manifest in color usage, headwear forms, and the coordination of accessories with garments. As a sophisticated symbolic system integrating doctrine and practicality, Tibetan monastic attire has maintained its cultural integrity through several historical periods of development and transformation.
4,800원
2.
2026.04 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study examines the historical background, types, and characteristics of apron-style clothing from the Joseon dynasty and reinterprets them through contemporary fashion design. Here, apron-style clothing refers to clothing worn over a first layer, secured with straps, and structured to cover the front of the body. During the Joseon dynasty, apron-style clothing was differentiated according to purpose as follows: daily use, performance use, and ceremonial use. Structurally, it can be classified into four types: square, square with multiple straps, three-pronged with waist gathers, and three-pronged with narrow pleats. Based on Joseon-period apron-style clothing’s historical significance, structural features, and layered visual effects a total of four contemporary fashion designs were developed using CLO 3D as a design tool: Design 1 is a mini dress in a tube-top style derived from a simple square apron, Design 2 is a mini dress that reinterprets the Yuso [流蘇] decoration of the Boro [甫老], Design 3 is a cape design divided into three sections that is inspired by the Suboro [繡甫老], and Design 4 is a layered skirt reflecting the pleated structure of the Jeonhaeng-utchima [前香上裳]. The design outcomes demonstrate that the structural characteristics of traditional apron-style clothing are effectively expressed through silhouette, while their layered qualities are rendered with depth using different materials and colors. This research are expected to contribute to a deeper understanding of Korean traditional costume and to expand its value and potential for contemporary application.
5,500원
3.
2026.04 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study examines the transmission process of General Jeong Ji's armor, its historical significance, and the formative characteristics of the relic. This is a type of chain armor used regardless of time and place. This type of chain mail, known as “Gyeongbeongap (chain-mail with iron lamellar),” features iron plates and chains, as documented in early Joseon Dynasty literature. Compared to armor made of only chains, there are disadvantages such as the chains not coming off or rusting, making maintenance difficult. In contrast, General Jeong Ji's armor can be understood as having attempted to increase the protective power that armor should have by adding iron plates processed with oxysulphate and lacquer on metal. It is also presumed to have been influenced by Yuan Dynasty chain mail due to the development of firearms and the establishment of the Mongol Empire. Records of the transmission of General Jeong Ji's armor are found in 16th and 18th-century literature and early 20th-century photographs, confirming its historical significance as a valuable local relic. Furthermore, this study enables a deeper understanding of the historical and formative significance of General Jeong Ji’s armor by comparing it with similar chain mail from East Asia, such as Mongolia and Russia.
4,900원
4.
2026.04 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study examined how the embossing effect of electroactive polyvinylchloride (PVC) gel, an electrically responsive material that changes shape under electrical stimulation, can be simulated in CLO3D and applied to shape-changing garment design. Three simulation approaches were developed based on the deformation characteristics of the electroactive PVC gel: pressure, warp and weft shrinkage, and elastic band strength adjustments. The visual similarity of each simulation approach and the actual deformation behavior of the gel were comparedusing experte valuations. The results demonstrated that the warp and weft shrinkage adjustment method most closely reproduced the embossing effect of the gel. Simulation settings with a shrinkage rate of 130% or lower and a pattern size of 3 inches or smaller yielded the most stable and aesthetically effective outcomes. Using these optimal conditions, three skirt designs (basicfitted, flare, and asymmetric) were proposed to verify the practical applicability of this embossing effect in garment design. By presenting a digital simulation-based method for reviewing designs that incorporate electroactive materials, these findings suggest practical design strategies for smart textiles and interactive fashion. This study also indicates the need for future research to extend this approach to a broader range of garment items and integrate user experience-based evaluations.
4,800원
5.
2026.04 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study examined the effects of recommendation rationale presentation type on consumers’ usage intention toward size recommendation services and investigated the moderating role of fashion involvement in this relationship. A scenario-based online experiment was conducted to simulate a size selection situation in an online fashion shopping context. Participants received experimental stimili featuring a unisex white short-sleeved T-shirt purchase scenario, where size recommendation services used either collaborative filtering or content-based filtering. The stimuli were designed to reflect differences in the presentation of recommendation grounds to consumers. Data were collected from 200 participants through an online survey conducted between December 11 and 13, 2023. The moderating effect of fashion involvement was examined using the PROCESS macro (Model 1). The results showed that fashion involvement significantly moderated the relationship between recommendation rationale presentation type and usage intention. Specifically, no significant difference was found between the two presentation types at the mean and lower levels of fashion involvement. However, the content-based filtering type showed significantly higher usage intention at higher levels of fashion involvement. Therefore, consumer acceptance of size recommendation services should be understood not as a straightforward comparison of presentation types, but as a conditional relationship influenced by consumer characteristics such as fashion involvement.
4,300원
6.
2026.04 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
Various kinds of clothing characterized the fashion style during the Joseon Dynasty period. Cheollik, the oldest among traditional Korean costumes, was worn for diverse purposes by various classes and has immense historical value for its unique structure and form. This study reveals the aesthetic aspects of cheollik from the Joseon period, which upheld the spirit of consideration. It looks into the possibility of cheollik’s re-creation in light of the social/cultural background of that period. It also reviews the literature and compiles images of artifacts and relics of cheollik excavated from the tombs of its wearers during the Joseon period. The aesthetic aspects of cheollik reflect the mindset of Joseon people, as demonstrated by its diverse proportions and forms, qualities that exhibit “thinking outside the box” flexibility, and the ability to transcend conventions through free thinking and creative imagination in daily life. These are consistent with contemporary fashion trends, thus pointing to the modernity of cheollik, as exemplified by a number of design cases thus inspired. Cheollik represents the kind of beauty that resonates with contemporary individuals, showcasing the potential for historical elements to continuously transform into futuristic forms. In other words, the aesthetic value of cheollik begins with consideration and ends with creation.
4,900원
7.
2026.04 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study investigated the visualization accuracy and educational applicability of generative artificial intelligence (AI) tools in fashion design education by comparing images generated from the same blouse sketch using GPT-based tools, LOOK AI, and Stable Diffusion under identical prompt conditions. Thirty-two professional fashion designers evaluated the generated outputs using a structured 10-item assessment scale, focusing on silhouette accuracy, detail representation, structural clarity, and overall visual completeness. Statistical differences among the tools were analyzed using one-way analysis of variance followed by post-hoc comparisons. The results revealed significant differences (p<.05) in key evaluation criteria: silhouette accuracy, detail implementation, structural interpretability, and overall completeness. LOOK AI excelled in representing structural elements such as seams, pleats, and pattern logic, indicating its strength in design-oriented applications and technical visualization tasks. In contrast, Stable Diffusion received higher ratings for overall visual balance and aesthetic coherence, despite showing relatively lower structural fidelity. GPT-based outputs received lower ratings for structural accuracy but were seen as valuable for promoting critical AI literacy via prompt-based exploration, iterative refinement, and reflective evaluation. These findings suggest that differences among AI tools should not be interpreted in terms of absolute superiority but as distinct educational affordances. Accordingly, this study proposes a three-axis instructional framework that integrates structure-oriented learning, creative visualization, and critical inquiry-based learning.
4,200원
8.
2026.04 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study explores creative experiences and educational needs related to the use of generative artificial intelligence (AI) in fashion design and proposes educational strategies through an AI-based fashion design process framework. A qualitative research design was employed, involving semi-structured in-depth interviews with 10 fashion design educators who had experience using generative AI. Inductive content analysis was performed on the collected data using NVivo, comprising coding, categorization, and theme development. The findings were organized into four major themes: (a) perceptions of AI use in fashion design, (b) functional roles of AI in the creative process, (c) human–AI collaboration and creative agency, and (d) educational needs and ethical considerations. The results showed that generative AI was perceived not as a substitute for human designers but as a supportive tool that could enhance creative thinking, particularly in the ideation and visualization stages. Specifically, AI enabled rapid exploration of diverse design alternatives and reduced psychological pressure in early creative phases. Human–AI collaboration was characterized by a complementary structure in which AI generated visual suggestions but human designers retained the responsibility for aesthetic judgment and final decision-making. Finally, an AI-based fashion design process framework aligned with the Double Diamond model was derived from these findings, providing a conceptual basis for educational strategies in fashion design education.
4,800원
9.
2026.04 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study examines the impact of Nitinol-based shape memory alloy module placement on silhouette recovery in knit skirts following external deformation and thermal activation. It presents shape recovery as a key design stage for future shape-changing garments, rather than asserting complete autonomy in shape transformation. Two skirt types (straight and flare) were created by retaining the waist-hip section and replacing the lower section with a brioche-knit panel for module attachment. Three placement conditions (2, 4, and 6 modules) were prepared for each silhouette, yielding six specimens. After mechanical deformation of the lower panel, thermal stimulation was applied, and pre-/post-recovery images were recorded under identical conditions. Silhouette recovery was quantified by Intersection over Union (IoU) between aligned pre- and post-recovery binary masks. Ten apparel-design experts evaluated silhouette similarity, overlap, protrusion, wrinkling, and design acceptability. IoU values were high across all specimens (0.920–0.933), indicating stable recovery of the outer outline regardless of placement density. However, expert evaluation differentiated design outcomes by skirt type. In the straight skirt, more distributed placement improved appearance stability and acceptability, whereas in the flare skirt, minimal placement showed the highest overall acceptability. The findings show that high geometric overlap alone does not guarantee design completeness and that module placement must consider pattern curvature and silhouette ease. The study provides foundational placement guidelines for Nitinol-assisted skirt design and suggests future work to verify wearability, durability, and safety with repeated use.
4,500원
10.
2026.04 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study examines the attitude formation process in viewers of AI-based fashion films by focusing on cognitive, affective, and perceptual responses. As generative AI reshapes the production and visual language of fashion media, fashion films are no longer limited to the documentation of physical garments but function as visual media that construct aesthetic experience. Within this context, the study explores how viewers interpret and evaluate AI-generated fashion imagery, with particular attention to the roles of meaning, emotion, and visual perception in shaping attitude. An empirical approach was employed using AI-generated fashion film content as a stimulus. Participants evaluated their cognitive, affective, and perceptual responses to design elements presented in the film. The findings indicate that perceptual factors are statistically significantly associated with attitude, whereas cognitive and affective factors are not. Visual elements such as silhouette, color, material, and detail serve as key cues that facilitate immediate and intuitive judgment. These results suggest that the attitudes of AI-based fashion film viewers are significantly shaped by perceptual judgments of visual elements. The study contributes to the understanding of AI-based fashion films as a form of fashion communication and offers implications for the development of fashion content that emphasizes perceptual clarity, visual coherence, and the effective articulation of design elements.
4,200원