간행물

복식문화연구 KCI 등재 The Research Journal of the Costume Culture 服飾文化硏究

권호리스트/논문검색
이 간행물 논문 검색

권호

31권 5호 (2023년 10월) 8

1.
2023.10 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
Comprehending the prevailing ideals of the body within a specific era requires grasping the intricate interplay between social phenomena and the evolution of clothing. Accordingly, this study investigates the distinctive facets of the perception of the Neo-Confucian body as reflected in men’s dress during the Joseon Dynasty. We examine a comprehensive body of scholarship, literature, and historical records concerning the body and dress. Additionally, we also employ a framework developed by M. Y. Kim, which categorizes the Neo-Confucian body in three ways: as the natural body, the cultural body, and the body as a fully-realized moral subject. Our findings unveil three crucial insights: firstly, guided by Neo-Confucian discourse positing appearance as a manifestation of innate energy (氣), men’s dress was deliberately designed to demarcate stylistic distinctions in women’s dress; secondly, the Chinese gwan (冠) was employed as a tool of self-cultivation (修身) to symbolize the legitimacy of Joseon’s Neo-Confucian governance; and thirdly, sim-ui (深衣), a philosophical emblem of Confucianism extensively represented across through an intensified exploration of historical sources, served as a means to consolidate the political standing of the Neo-Confucian faction. As a consequence of these factors, the attire of noble men conferred upon them both sexual and moral ascendancy as political entities; men’s dress became a visual manifestation of the legitimacy of their power, thus embodying Neo-Confucian ideals. This study carries significance by applying a discourse analysis approach to Korean dress research and elucidating the factors underlying the development of men’s dress during the Joseon Dynasty.
4,500원
2.
2023.10 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study initiated research aligned with the body positivity movement, aiming to explore size diversity for groups facing relative size discrimination due to their deviation from average body types. Using KS adult women's apparel dimensions as a reference, jackets were developed for women in their 20s to 30s who belong to the small petite-size (S[P]) category, which is characterized by a height under 155cm (petite) and a bust-circumference from 72cm to less than 82cm (small). Using 3D virtual-fitting, we conducted experiment-pattern production and refinement and subsequent real-fitting evaluations by participants to objectively validate aesthetics and comfort. The study’s findings are as follows: First, utilizing a 3D virtual-fitting program by identifying ‘creases’ and ‘garment pressure points’ in the jacket appearance, experiment patterns were refined and real jackets were produced. This approach addressed challenges in recruiting participants with specific body types and allowed for efficient research in terms of cost and time. Second, through real-fitting evaluations, basic-fit and slim-fit jackets labeled as <79-88-150> were developed for the S(P) size. we presented ‘size spec’ and ‘ease allowance’ for jackets by waist fit. Both fits received positive evaluations with approximately 53.5cm sleeve length, and 11.7cm shoulder length. The ease allowances for the basic-fit jacket were approximately 9.2cm at the bust circumference, 12.8cm at the waist circumference, and 6cm at the hip circumference. Similarly, the slim-fit jacket exhibited ease allowances of about 4.8cm at the bust circumference, 4cm at the waist circumference, and 4cm at the hip circumference, receiving positive evaluations for aesthetics and comfort.
5,700원
3.
2023.10 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study analyzes consumer fashion purchase patterns from a big data perspective. Transaction data from 1 million transactions at two Korean fashion brands were collected. To analyze the data, R, Python, the SPADE algorithm, and network analysis were used. Various consumer purchase patterns, including overall purchase patterns, seasonal purchase patterns, and age-specific purchase patterns, were analyzed. Overall pattern analysis found that a continuous purchase pattern was formed around the brands’ popular items such as t-shirts and blouses. Network analysis also showed that t-shirts and blouses were highly centralized items. This suggests that there are items that make consumers loyal to a brand rather than the cachet of the brand name itself. These results help us better understand the process of brand equity construction. Additionally, buying patterns varied by season, and more items were purchased in a single shopping trip during the spring season compared to other seasons. Consumer age also affected purchase patterns; findings showed an increase in purchasing the same item repeatedly as age increased. This likely reflects the difference in purchasing power according to age, and it suggests that the decision-making process for purchasing products simplifies as age increases. These findings offer insight for fashion companies’ establishment of item-specific marketing strategies.
5,500원
4.
2023.10 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study seeks to increase the satisfaction of elderly men when purchasing and wearing ready-to-wear clothes by designing a slacks pattern suitable for their body type, which is determined by analyzing their lower bodies using virtual avatars and 3D virtual simulation system. The study found the following. First, based on virtual visualization of the comparison slacks pattern, the waistline position was consistently the lowest scored question among the evaluation survey items. Interpretation of this dissatisfaction suggests that, because the front waistline falls below the abdomen, the lower body, and especially the abdominal shape, is unpleasantly emphasized. Second, by using a virtual simulation system, the study developed a new slacks pattern that considered the concerns of elderly men. The primary measurement changes were as follows: front waist girth W/4+1.5cm+0.5cm, back waist girth W/4+1.5cm–0.5cm, front hip girth H/4+2.5cm–0.5cm, back hip girth H/4+2.5cm+0.5cm. Third, the new slacks pattern’s appearance was evaluated more highly than the comparison pattern, confirming the new pattern’s appropriateness for elderly men. This study demonstrates how slacks and other clothing patterns designed in a 3D virtual garment simulator can be used to design more appealing clothing for elderly men, increasing the satisfaction of wearing ready-made clothes at older ages.
4,500원
5.
2023.10 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study aimed to suggest a suitable collar pattern by visually evaluating the appearance of the amount of collar drape by the starting position of the lapel line of a double-breasted tailored jacket using a 3d virtual fitting program. It created an avatar based on the mean size of women in their 20s (the 8th Size Korea) using clo network (double fastening: 10cm, collar width: 4.5cm, collar stand: 3cm, and lapel width: 8.5cm). The starting of the lapel twist line was waistline level, the 1/2 level of bustline and waistline, or bustline level, and collar laying amount was 4.5, 5.5, 6.5, or 7.5cm. It was evaluated by garment construction experts using 5, 6, and 4 items on the front, sides, and back, respectively. Descriptive statistics, F-test, Duncantest, and reliability analysis were conducted using SPSS 22. When collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. Under waist line, when collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. When collar laying amount was large, the collar’s outline length increased, resulting in unnecessary wrinkles from the neckline to the lapel, affecting the overall collar appearance. When collar laying amount was the smallest, the collar was lifted and the width was narrowed, exposing the seam connecting the collar and neckline. The length of the collar’s outline varied depending on collar laying amount, which was important to make the outline sit comfortably on the body.
4,200원
6.
2023.10 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study aims to help companies with efficient investment and marketing strategies by empirically verifying the impact on satisfaction and purchase intention for artificial intelligence-based digital technology supported shopping assistants introduced in e-commerce. Frequency, factor, SEM, and multiple group analysises were conducted using SPSS 26.0 and Amos 26.0. As a result, first, motivated consumer innovativeness elements of AI shopping assistant were derived into a total of four categories: functional, hedonic, rational, and reliable. Second, in the order of hedonic and rational, satisfaction with the AI shopping assistant was significantly affected, and in the order of rational and functional, purchase intention was significantly affected. The satisfaction with the AI shopping assistant did not affect the purchase intention. Third, in the case of hedonic, the AI-preferred group had a more significant effect on satisfaction than the human-preferred group, and in the case of rational, there was no difference by group in purchase intention. Thus, it was found that consumers prefer AI shopping helpers for e-commerce because they can shop reasonably and are functionally convenient. Therefore, when introducing AI shopping assistants, it is essential to include content that can compare and analyze fundamental information, such as product prices, as well as search functions and payment system compatibility that facilitate shopping.
5,200원
7.
2023.10 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study aims to analyze the variations in online clothing purchasing patterns based on demographic attributes and purchasing behavior. The survey subjects comprised individuals in their 10s to 50s who had prior experience with online shopping. The survey was conducted in Gyungnam from May to June 2022. A total of 397 questionnaires were analyzed using the χ2-test statistical method. The analysis of clothing purchase type based on demographic characteristics revealed differences in terms of gender, marital status, age, monthly income, and occupation. Notably, when analyzed by demographic characteristics and clothing purchase types, monthly online purchase frequency displayed significant differences in marital status, age, and occupation. Similarly, monthly purchase amounts through online platforms exhibited significant variations based on marital status, age, monthly income, and occupation. The online fashion platforms, when examined in relation to demographic characteristics and purchase types, showed significant differences across all variables. Clothing purchases by consumers seeking individuality and differentiation exhibited significant differences in age, occupation, and purchase types. Furthermore, the reasons for choosing online platforms for clothing purchases varied significantly based on age and occupation. These findings indicate diverse purchasing behaviors on online platforms influenced by demographic characteristics. These findings can be valuable for effectively segmenting the online fashion market.
6,000원
8.
2023.10 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study analyzed 214 sports knee braces found on Chinese websites between October 2022 and November 2022 to assess product type (impact protection material, fastening method, and protection method), material composition, size, weight, and main characteristics. The product type was further categorized according to (1) use of hard guard and soft guard protection method; (2) cover type, strap type, and slip-on type fastening method; and (3) pressure type and support type protection method. It also noted the physical shock protection materials used, including foam (EVA or polyurethane) attached to joints as a buffer material and plastic (TPU or PP) that protects the user’s knee from external impacts. The study found that the materials that primarily comprise sports knee braces are a combination of nylon, polyester, and neoprene. Additionally, it found that most sports knee braces available on the market are available in three sizes based on knee circumference: M (35–38cm), L (38–41cm), and XL (41–44cm), while some products are available in one size only. Furthermore, the majority of the 214 products studied weighed 200g, followed by 1,000g. Finally, in terms of product characteristics, many sports knee braces utilize ring-shaped silicone pads to distribute the load pressure on the knees or incorporate sturdy adhesive velcro to improve knee stability.
4,500원