간행물
복식문화연구 KCI 등재 The Research Journal of the Costume Culture 服飾文化硏究
- 발행기관 복식문화학회
- 자료유형 학술지
- 간기 격월간
- ISSN 1226-0401 (Print)2383-6334 (Online)
- 수록기간 1993 ~ 2024
- 주제분류 자연과학 > 생활과학 자연과학 분류의 다른 간행물
- 십진분류KDC 381DDC 391
권호리스트/논문검색
31권 6호 (2023년 12월) 8건
1.
2023.12
구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
The study aimed to investigate the factors influencing genderless fashion preferences. The questionnaires were collected from men and women participants aged 20 to 49 living in Seoul City and Gyeonggi Province. Data analysis involved factor analysis, t-test, ANOVA, and regression analysis. The findings revealed that genderless fashion preference comprised four factors, namely individuality pursuit, deviation from norms, fashion pursuit, and social recognition pursuit. Self-esteem encompassed two factors positive self-esteem, and negative self-esteem. while sociocultural attitude toward appearance consisted internalization, and awareness. Second, positive self-esteem significantly influenced individuality pursuit and deviation from norms in genderless preference factors. Third, sociocultural attitude toward appearance had a significant effect on genderless fashion preference, with awareness particularly exerting a significant effect on individuality pursuit, fashion pursuit, and social recognition pursuit. Fourth, genderless fashion preferences exhibited differences based on gender role identity in factors such as individual pursuit, norm avoidance, and trend pursuit. Lastly, demographic characteristics such as age, education, occupation, and monthly income revealed significant differences in genderless fashion preferences. From the results of the study, it was found that consumers perceived individuality pursuit, fashion pursuit, and social recognition pursuit as important influencing factors of genderless fashion preferences. In addition, it is necessary to create an independent brand identity by developing various items to express consumers’ individuality, differentiated brand concepts from other brands, and store displays.
4,800원
2.
2023.12
구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study aims to merge Picasso’s expressive elements and deconstructive fashion’s formative traits, proposing an upcycle fashion design that fuses artistic and philosophical aspects. The analysis of Picasso’s Cubism identified qualities like liberating revolution, fluidity of vision, geometric reducibility, complex symbolism, and creative imitation. The analysis of Derrida’s deconstructionism revealed expressive traits: uncertainty, intertextuality, différance, and dis-de phenomenon. An upscale fashion design was developed based on six Picasso works featuring women. The design was created using the fashion design software CLO 3D and integrated clothing waste and scrap fabrics as materials.The results are as follows. First, upcycle fashion was viewed from a new perspective based on Picasso and Derrida’s values. This perspective suggested creating better ethical values by upholding environmental protection in novel ways that overcome limitations rather than destroy existing values indiscriminately. Second, upcycle fashion design methodologies were derived from various perspectives utilizing formative features of Picasso’s works and specific expressive features of deconstructed fashion. Third, the direction of mitigating waste and pollution from clothing production and transportation was revealed by making clothes in a virtual space using the CLO 3D program. This study contributed to obtaining various methods for developing upcycle fashion designs using own methods of Picasso and Derrida to diversify the approaches of upcycling, which is relatively stagnant in disassembling.
5,200원
3.
2023.12
구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
The purpose of this study is to provide basic data for the production of jackets with high fit by comparing and analyzing the adhesive and non-adhesive production methods of men's jackets. An analysis of the manufacturing method showcased differences between the adhesive and non-adhesive manufacturing methods in the cutting and wick attachment method, the shape and attachment method of the chest reinforcing wick, the sleeve attachment method, and the shoulder pad and sleeve reinforcing cloth attachment method. In evaluating the outfit, the overall fit of the shoulder, the fit of the chest, and the fit of the armpit were found to be high in the non-adhesive production method. In evaluating appearance evaluation, the front shoulder, chest, and sleeve overall appearance showed a high non-adhesive production method. Therefore, in order to increase the wearability of the shoulder pad and the the attachment method of the upper sleeve reinforcing cloth, the non-adhesive production method should be used, and in order to increase the overall wearability and armpit wear of the chest, the difference in the attachment method, and the reinforcement method of the armhole should be used. In addition, to increase the appearance of the jacket, non-adhesive production methods such as differences in wick attachment methods, shoulder pads, sleeve reinforcing cloth, and sleeve attachment methods should be used.
5,200원
4.
2023.12
구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study was aimed at examining the characteristics of women’s blue denim on the basis of design elements to provide fundamental data for fashion majors and fashion designers. Seven design elements were selected from previous studies to compare them with the following characteristics of blue denim: color (washing, dyeing), ornamentation (trimming, detailing, painting, and printing), and form modification, tearing, and ripping). Data from 1,520 photographs of the 2019 S/S to the 2023–24 F/W collections were collected through overlapping checks. The data were then subjected to frequency analysis using the Statistical Package for the Social Sciences (version 26). The results are as follows: The most frequent design method used in producing the denim items in our sample was washing, followed by modification, tearing, and ripping and detailing. The greatest change in denim design occurred in 2023, and more design element changes were observed in the F/W season than in the S/S season. Washing was used four times or more frequently than dyeing, while detailing was employed approximately 2 times more often than trimming. With respect to form, the most common approach was modification, followed by tearing and ripping.
5,500원
5.
2023.12
구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study aims to analyze the traditional attire of four ethnic minority groups in Northeastern China: Daur, Ewenki, Oroqen, and Hezhen, considering their natural environment, lifestyles, and cultural influences. A literature review of academic papers, books, and online resources was conducted, along with indirect investigations through artifacts. The Daur people, being equestrian, have garments with deep slits, vibrant colors, and elaborate decorations. The Ewenki people wear clothes made of fabric in the summer and primarily deer skin in the winter, and their clothing is simple and not flashy. The Oroqen people’s clothing typically has slits at the front, back, or on both sides, and they wear a waist belt. The Hezhen people, an ethnic group that primarily hunts and fishes, wear two-piece clothing with a hip-length top and pants or other fur-trimmed garments. All groups incorporate symbolic patterns influenced by Shamanism, along with animal headgear and leather shoes. We observed that the traditional costumes of ethnic minority groups in Northeastern China share many commonalities in form, but there are detailed differences in material, shape, color, and decoration due to unique geographical and climatic characteristics as well as differences in livelihood. Additionally, the structure of clothing varies depending on each tribe’s shamanistic practices and lifestyle.
5,100원
6.
2023.12
구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study analyzes the body shapes of lower-body obese female adolescents and proposes a slacks pattern suitable for their body type. Lower-body obesity is a prevalent type of teenage obesity, and our proposals aim to improve consumer satisfaction in ready-to-wear clothes across this demographic. We first observe characteristics of obese lower bodies, noting significantly above-average thigh and hip circumference. These figures indicate a high degree of curvature in obese lower bodies, along with a large drop value. Leveraging this data, we develop a novel slacks pattern using 3D avatars in a virtual simulation system. The formulas for the main areas of the pattern are as follows: front waist girth W/4+0.75cm+0.5cm, back waist girth W/4+0.5cm– 0.5cm, front hip girth H/4+1.25cm–0.5cm, back hip girth H/4+2cm+0.5cm, front crotch extension H/16+0.5cm, back crotch extension H/8+1cm. Results from appearance evaluations show that this pattern minimizes strain rate on the waist and hips, and its average score is significantly higher than that of an alternative pattern that was also evaluated. The minimized strain rate and high average score indicate that our pattern assigns a sufficient amount of space to the appropriate areas. Based on these results, we expect our research to inform slacks pattern development and production for obese consumers of all types.
4,500원
7.
2023.12
구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
The aim of this study was to analyze the design characteristics of Chinese fashion designer Feng Chen Wang and interpret their implicit meaning from a neo-deconstruction perspective. A review of domestic and foreign literature, outlined the development of deconstruction and neo-deconstruction, with neo-deconstruction’s aesthetic features termed ‘traditional fusion’, ‘positive playfulness’, ‘open communication’, and ‘multiple inclusiveness’. These features informed an analysis of Feng Chen Wang’s fashion design. Four key findings emerged. First, ‘traditional fusion’ combines traditional Chinese colors, items, handicrafts, and patterns with modern design to break down boundaries between past and modern, tradition and fashion. Second, ‘positive playfulness’ promotes creativity and fun, using bright colors, exaggerated accessories, and playing withthe composition of traditional clothes to create a positive atmosphere. Third, ‘open communication’ emphasizes design that combines practicality and creativity in response to consumer needs, incorporating the thoughts arising from individual experiences and interest in social phenomena. Fourth, ‘multiple inclusiveness’ breaks down boundaries of sexuality, hierarchy, and body shape, embracing various ideas of beauty and respecting uniqueness through design that are seen as available to all. Using a neo-deconstruction perspective, Feng Chen Wang provides novel product planning ideas for Chinese fashion brands and reflects the values and meaning of modern design pursued by contemporary Chinese designers.
5,200원
8.
2023.12
구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of women’s costumes among the Regency era’s elite in the television drama Bridgerton (2020). Its methodology investigates the socio-cultural background and literature on clothing in the Regency era. It also analyzes the formative elements of Daphne’s costumes (of the Bridgerton family) and Penelope’s costumes (of the Featherington family) representing the upper class. The study reveals that women’s costumes had a tubular silhouette consisting of a low neckline, high waistline, and short puffed sleeves. The series expressed well the Regency-era costumes, which were influenced by Neoclassicism and characterized by silk materials, shawls, gloves, belts, a reticule, and hairstyles. Among the formative elements, the Bridgerton and Featherington families’ costumes showed distinct differences in color, materials, patterns, accessories, and hairstyles. Daphne’s costumes were intelligent and elegant in pastel-toned blues and had small patterns. She carried small accessories and had a natural curled hairstyle. In contrast, Penelope wore decorative and splendid styles in intense colors and large patterns. Her accessories were large and colorful, and she had a strong curled hairstyle. These costumes express the Bridgerton family as aristocratic and the Petringer family as flashy, thereby distinguishing the two families. These research results will be presented as basic data for producing drama costumes in the 19th century to help complete the drama.
4,500원
