This study aims to investigate the socio-cultural background of Poulaines, which influenced fashion and contemporary shoe design. Analyzing the characteristics of the Poulaines provided basic data for different shoes. The study method utilized previous studies to explore the concept and characteristics of Poulaines. In the empirical analysis, shoe design data mainly came from collections that illustrate formative elements of contemporary shoe design from the 2010 S/S season to the 2020 S/S season. A total of 709 photo materials were collected and analyzed. The results showed that the morphological characteristics of Poulaines were exaggerated to symbolize classes of the past and sexual expression. The expanding structure was divided into the fore nose, heel, and top-line and featured a design that expressed the formative beauty of Poulaines. Additionally, the decorative desire to represent wealth and class using various materials introduced new designs into contemporary shoe designs while showing extreme decorativeness through over-trimming and color contrast. Furthermore, the heterogeneous characteristics that come from the change and harmony of the shoes’ body and heel that deviated from the existing shoe shapes were classified into the dissolution of shapes and mixing and matching. Thus, they broke the monotonous silhouette of shoes and gave variety delicately.
In the intensely competitive global fashion market, the use of cultural elements to enhance design has become increasingly widespread. However, there is a lack of research on challenges and opportunities associated with integrating cultural elements of Minhwa into fashion design. Moreover, diverse approaches to incorporate Korean cultural elements into contemporary fashion designs are still needed. This study aims to reveal the real-world challenges relating to the incorporation of Korean cultural elements, including Minhwa, into fashion design and to clarify the possibility of applying Lin’s cultural levels to cultural aspects in accordance with experts’ views. To establish a theoretical foundation, the literature review on cultural design and Minhwa studies was conducted. It analyzes Minhwa to gain an understanding of the characteristics associated with different cultural levels. In-depth interviews with fashion industry professionals and Minhwa artists were conducted to ascertain their attitudes toward Minhwa use. The study’s major findings were threefold. First, the cultural design facilitates the introduction, promotion, understanding, and maintenance of the culture. Since Minhwa offers rich inspiration linked to Korean culture, Minhwa-related designs can provide new perspectives while still having commercial potential. Second, however, the limitations of existing cultural designs included their being outdated, superficial without interpretation, unsophisticated, or limited. Furthermore, the use of Minhwa is limited since it is difficult to avoid creating superficial and unsophisticated designs in the real world. Third, approaching Minhwa at different cultural levels can promote diverse thinking and reduce the challenges of Minhwa use in design, but the major challenge remains visual expression.
The purpose of this study is to analyze the expressive elements and techniques of graffiti appearing in the Moschino collection by Jeremy Scott. A theoretical examination of graffiti art and Moschino’s creative designer Jeremy Scott was conducted using previous studies and publications. Accordingly, keywords about the expressive elements and techniques of graffiti and Moschino were identified, as follows: expressive elements of ‘message (slogan)’, ‘symbolized letters or forms’, ‘logo and brand symbol’, ‘graffiti (scribbles)’, ‘child-like elements’, ‘daily element’s and expressive techniques of ‘using primary colors (color contrast)’, ‘deformation’, ‘distortion’, ‘exaggeration’, ‘illusion (trompe l'oeil)’, ‘collage (repetition)’, ‘simplification (flattening)’, and ‘borrowing heterogeneous objects’. These keywords were then used to analyze Moschino’s collection, comprising seven years of Moschino’s collection photographs officially recorded in the fashion magazine Vogue, ranging from the 2014 F/W to 2020 F/W collections. A total of 761 photos were initially collected, from which 561 were selected by the researcher. Expressive characteristics of graffiti in Moschino’s collection were analyzed, and identified in the following categories: ‘child-like playfulness’, ‘commercial satire’, ‘using daily elements’, and ‘borrowing non-representative techniques’. Accordingly, it was confirmed that expressive characteristics of graffiti were found in the Moschino collection by Jeremy Scott. This study anticipates the possibility of various interpretations from which fashion that communicates closely with contemporary art can be understood.
The aim of this study was to provide data to enable the development of skateboarding pants. From the Chinese skateboard club SNS, 126 skateboarders in their 20s and 30s were chosen to participate in a survey. Data was gathered using a questionnaire from May 14 to May 28, 2021, and then analyzed using SPSS 23. The results concerning production were as follows: clothing sizes are generally divided into six stages: XS, S, M, L, XL, and 2XL. The silhouette is wide, and most pants have e-bands and normal hems. The pants are made from cotton-blend fabric, which is mostly moistureabsorbing and quick-drying. Baggy pants are preferred by skateboarders, with cotton being the most common fabric. The crotch, knees, and buttocks of pants are the least satisfying for skateboarders. When they skateboard, their ankles sustain the most injuries, followed by their knees and wrists. In the survey of consumers’ preferences for skateboarding pants, different styles were rated in the following order: straight pant silhouette, ribbed knit and string waistband design; full-rise waist height, string hemline design; and ankle-high pants length (fit), fabric and design. The hygroscopicity and ventilation of the fabric are crucial considerations when purchasing pants. In terms of color, chromatic and pastel colors are most popular. In addition, some people expect new fibers to be used and expect protective equipment and pants to be integrated.
This study explores the possibility of creating new experimental hanbok designs by accommodating the latest world fashion trends and the changing needs of consumers, in order to attempt to overcome the limitations of traditional Korean fashion design. To do so, We analyze works by contemporary Korean fashion designers to investigate current developments in Korean fashion design and to identify areas of improvement within hanbok design. The results show that most contemporary hanbok designs repeat stereotypes of traditional hanbok with minor modifications. So there arises a need to create new hanbok designs that are clearly distinct from traditional hanbok but also maintain its core features. To develop such designs, I apply the techniques of deconstruction fashion, which allow making experiments with form, composition, and materials use to realize new aesthetics. The use of CLO 3D fashion design software also proves to be very efficient for developing experimental designs. The study results make meaningful contributions to the development of virtual clothing and 3D fashion for hanbok, particularly as metaBUS, a cloud-based research synthesis platform, is rapidly gaining ground, and reality and virtual reality are increasingly mixed in everyday life. This attempt at 3D design of hanbok is expected to trigger more creative experimentation in hanbok design.
Molybdenum is used in electrical contacts, industrial motors, and transportation materials due to its remarkable ability to resist heat and corrosion. It is also used to flame coat other metals. This study investigated, the thermal characteristics of the molybdenum sputtered material, such as electrical conductivity, and stealth effects on infrared thermal imaging cameras. To this end, molybdenum sputtered samples were prepared by varying the density of the base sample and the type of base materials used. Thereafter, the produced samples were evaluated for their surface state, electrical conductivity, electromagnetic field characteristics, thermal characteristics, stealth effect on infrared thermal imaging cameras, and moisture characteristics. As a result of infrared thermal imaging, the molybdenum layer was directed towards the outside air, and when the sample was a film, it demonstrated a greater stealth effect than the fabric. When the molybdenum layer was directed to the outside air, all of the molybdenum sputtering-treated samples exhibited a lower surface temperature than the “untreated sample.” In addition, as a result of confirming electrical properties following the molybdenum sputtering treatment, it was determined that the film exhibited better electrical conductivity than the fabric. All samples that were subjected to molybdenum sputtering exhibited significantly reduced electromagnetic and IR transmission. As a result, the stealth effect on infrared thermal imaging cameras is considered to be a better way of interpreting heat transfer than infrared transmission. These results are expected to have future applications in high-performance smartwear, military uniforms, and medical wear.
With the growing importance of ESG as a must-have business strategy, this study attempted to analyze the current state of ESG practices in the Korean fashion businesses. The ESG cases of fashion business were collected from news articles searched on the largest Korean internet portal by November 2021 from October 2020 when the number of articles began to increase meaningfully. Three hundred ninety one ESG cases of 112 fashion manufacturing brands and 332 ESG cases of 49 retail brands were analyzed. Casual and outdoor/sportswear brands among fashion manufacturers were most active in ESG practices, and various online and offline retailers were practicing ESG. Approximately one-third of the fashion brands were positioned as eco-friendly concept. While environmental practices were the most practiced ESG, governance was the least practiced. Among environmental practices, fashion manufacturing businesses were most active in eco-friendly product development, while retail businesses were in eco-friendly campaign-event-service and eco-friendly packaging. The most active social practice was the contribution to communities, followed by retail businesses’ sharing growth with partner businesses. Governance practices were focused on the structure and operation of the board. Various ESG collaborations with various partners were also observed. The research result is meaningful verifying and diagnosing the ESG practices of the Korean fashion businesses.
This study analyzed the effects of fashion creators’ innovativeness and attractiveness on consumer response and orientation toward a sustainable relationship in personal media. A survey was conducted with consumers aged in their 20s and 30s who had experience in sharing video content or writing comments and participating in fashion creators’ real-time broadcasting of personal media. The results show that the innovativeness of fashion creators was classified into originality, opinion leadership, variety, and adventurous spirit, while attractiveness was classified into physical, social, and professional attractiveness. Consumer responses were classified into either emotional or cognitive responses, and sustainable relationship orientation was classified into communication, sharing, and relationship sustainability. The originality and variety of the fashion creators positively affected the emotional and cognitive responses of consumers. Adventurous spirit positively affected emotional response, whereas opinion leadership positively affected cognitive response. In addition, the social and professional attractiveness of fashion creators positively affected consumers’ emotional and cognitive responses. Emotional and cognitive responses positively affected consumers’ sustainable relationship orientation. The originality and opinion leadership of the fashion creators positively affected the three factors of sustainable relationship orientation, while variety positively affected communication and relationship sustainability. Fashion creators' social and professional attractiveness positively affected the three factors of sustainable relationship orientation, and physical attractiveness positively affected relationship sustainability. The results of this study are expected to provide useful data on the direction of fashion startups using personal media and marketing as well as distribution strategies in the fashion industry.
This study analyzes the influence of the social and cultural background of Art Nouveau on the costumes, architecture, and crafts in the period drama ‘Crimson Peak’. This research method captures images of women’s costumes, architecture, and crafts in the ‘Crimson Peak’ and selects and analyzes those with a clear Art Nouveau influence. Edith’s costumes are characterized by the Art Nouveau style that emerged in the 1890s, with an hourglass silhouette, pastel colors, soft materials, and organic curved embellishments. Lucille’s costumes show characteristics that were prevalent before the 1890s, using bustles, strong colors, and elaborate ornamentation. The architecture is characterized by gothic vertical lines and organic curves, naturalistic patterns featuring animals and plants, and steel and glass materials. The crafts of ‘Crimson Peak’ are characterized by flexible shapes with strong, organic curves. These costumes, architecture, and crafts share formal elements including waving, twisting, and organic curves and plant-shaped motifs. The influence of social and cultural background of the age of Art Nouveau expressed in movies on formative arts was examined as impressionism appeared in costumes made of pastel colors, thin and see-through materials, medieval Gothic historicism expressed in structures composed of vertical design and religious relief ornament, exoticism appeared in Chinese vase and Japanese-patterned tea sets, naturalism with an animal plant motif and phenomenon of active social activities of progressive women through women’s clothing that elements of men’s costume are introduced. This study will provide data for the production of period dramas set at the end of the 19th century.
Traditional tie-dyeing is widely implemented in the clothing handicraft culture in China, South Korea, and Japan. Since it was developed 2,000 years ago, it has become a popular method of fabric making in the world and is highly respected by fashion designers. Based on the existing traditional tie-dyeing methods, this study conducted specific research on the 3D printing technology of the SLS laser method and the micro tool design application method of the clamp-dyeing process. Through the experimental methods of this study, it proposes to use the “7000 Nylon” material, which is commonly used in 3D printing, to develop a new clamp-dyeing tool. This new tool can be widely used in the clamp-dyeing of fabrics, such as cotton, hemp, silk, and some chemical fibers. The applied method and principle can be consistent with the traditional clamp-dyeing method. Therefore, the innovation of tie-dyeing technology is the best protection measure for the development and inheritance of traditional fabric making. The continuation of artistic life needs originality, which is also the best response to market competition. At the same time, this new design of the clamp-dyeing tool has the characteristics of novelty, innovation, and rich changes, which aligns with the new fashion demands of current fabric design.