간행물

복식문화연구 KCI 등재 The Research Journal of the Costume Culture 服飾文化硏究

권호리스트/논문검색
이 간행물 논문 검색

권호

25권 6호 (2017년 12월) 14

1.
2017.12 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
Sociocultural and demographic shifts have resulted in a changing perception of older age. Older women, historically subjected to age-ordering rules of dress, have increasingly refused to be marginalized fashion consumers and have been striving to construct a more positive age identity. Although studies have examined consumers’ negotiation of marginalized identities, age identity has not received much attention as a type of marginalized identity. This study argues that Pinterest acts as a platform for identity work by allowing older women to creatively reconstruct their sense of self by saving images and organizing them into thematic boards. Drawing on symbolic interactionism theory and notions of digital self-presentation, this paper seeks to explore the discursive practices that older women employ on Pinterest to resist ageist fashion discourses. The sample consisted of 15 fashion-oriented Pinterest profiles of older women. Netnographic inquiry was employed first to examine what images were saved and what thematic boards were created. Three analytical frameworks for visual data analysis were integrated to further scrutinize the visual texts within the thematic boards. The analyses revealed three main themes-rejecting age, accepting age, and consuming age. The themes that emerged formed the basis for an age identity reconstruction process whereby women attempted to bridge the existing gap between older age and mainstream fashion discourse.
5,800원
2.
2017.12 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
The natural resources of Jeju are recognized as the new regional image of that clean island. Reflecting these trends, this study is initiated to develop a textile design with the motive of persimmon, a natural resource of Jeju, and to apply it to infant’s and children’s clothes. Its purpose is to highlight the image of persimmon, a traditional dye, as a regional signature for Jeju. Product development procedure included, understanding the use of persimmon for fashion products, analyzing Infants’ and Children’s designer collections over the last three seasons (focused on 2014S/S, 2015S/S, and 2016S/S), and surveying the Children’s Clothes market for persimmon dyeing in Jeju. The conclusion was that, the natural resources of Jeju are highly valuable, and should be applied to textile design and apparel products for children. Utilizing Jeju persimmon was actively studied, but, the market for the Jeju persimmon natural - dyeing products is extremely limited. Moreover, the apparel products for infants and children represent old-fashioned styles, despite their higher prices. Therefore, using the formative characteristics of persimmon for each theme was suggested for development of patterns for textile design. Pattern designs were expressed using textured textile screen-printing, embroidery and appliqué for infants’ and children’s clothes. In this study, a total of 10 items were prepared as apparel products for infants and children. All items were designed considering mix-and-match, potential, with each other or with regular mass-market products. These results are expected to contribute to highlighting the unique image of Jeju and to help promote fashion culture products.
4,900원
3.
2017.12 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
Appearance management is a serious issue for adults and young people in Korean society. People of various ages have used diverse means to improve their appearances. This study focused on dieting as an appearance management behavior in female adolescents. Dieting behaviors are not just a means to improve appearance; they may also relate to individuals’ beliefs and self-control. The importance of individual psychological/ personality factors cannot, therefore, be ruled out. Such factors can help explain personality factors explain “what causes a compulsive diet and what factors can alleviate it”. This study reviewed the literature on perfectionism and self-control as individual personality factors, and empirically examined the effects of these variables on perceived body distortion and dieting behaviors. We performed a structural equation model analysis to verify our hypothesis. The results are as follows: we found perfectionism to be positively related to perceived body distortion and dieting behaviors; we also found self-control to be negatively related to perceived body distortion though unrelated to dieting behaviors; finally, our analysis identified a relationship between perceived body distortion and dieting behaviors. These results indicate that perfectionism and self-control should be considered when conducting guidance and counseling sessions on issues related to dieting behaviors for adolescent’ appearance management. This paper concludes by discussing the study’s implications and limitations.
4,900원
4.
2017.12 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
The current study aims to analyze the process of fabric production planning in Dongdaemun Market, which is a successful model case industrial integration in South Korea. We followed the changes in perception among fabric experts, regarding their recognition of fashion trends, and the following planning and process of fabric production. We used the purpose sampling method to select participants for interview in the Dongdaemun Market, then we carried out one-to-one interviews. Our analysis reveals 4 points of importance. First, the fabric planning stage either employed the trend book swatch, or simply reused the model fabrics already available. Even though the experts felt the need to accept the latest fashion trends, very few considered the trends as positive influences in fabric planning. Whereas trend was a key element in identifying the flow of the fashion industry, there were obstacles in carrying out the study. Second, experts frequently participated in domestic fabric seminars, but not in textile exhibitions. Third, domestic and overseas market research has been performed typically at department stores, and typically at Japan. Fourth, the influx of Chinese fabrics has both positive and negative influences, such as low price, and low reliability. In conclusion, experts were less amenable to accepting the latest fashion trends. pre-requisites in real life to meet the use of the current trend of each company. More studies on the Dongdaemun Market from perspectives of practitioners are warranted.
4,600원
5.
2017.12 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
The purpose of this study is to reestablish the innovative and experimental designs of Rei Kawakubo by considering and analyzing the flow on the avant-garde nature of her design collection from 1981 to 2017. Design trends such as the art trend, silhouette, color, and expressive technique showcased in Rei Kawakubo’s collection from 1981 spring/summer to 2017 spring/summer were examined through precedent studies, books, internet materials, and the avant-garde expressive nature of her designs appearing in modern fashion. Additionally, this study considers the definition of avant- garde and analyzes the expressive nature of Rei Kawakubo’s 137 works from the Comme des Garcons collection, exhibited in New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art. As a result of this examination, the avant-garde expressive nature seen in modern fashion was classified into the following themes: historicity, de-structure, exaggeration, intermixture, and surrealism. As a result of reclassifying these characteristics according to historical flow, the historicty, intermixture, and de-structure appeared in the 1980s, while intermixture, exaggeration, and de-structure appeared in the 1990s. More recently, historicity, intermixture, and de-structure appeared in the 2000s, and intermixture, de-structure, exaggeration, and surrealism appeared in the 2010s. The present study is significant in providing theoretical material for the more innovative and various design development in diverse domains while helping to define and understand the avant-garde expression through Rei Kawakubo’s collection.
5,100원
6.
2017.12 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
The purpose of this study was to examine the differences of the information searches and purchasing behavior Korean men in their 20s and 30s, focusing on cosmetic involvement. Research methods consisted of qualitative and quantitative approaches. For the qualitative approach, in-depth interviews and participant observations were conducted to investigate male customers' cosmetic characteristics in information searches and purchasing behavior. Then, the study conducted a quantitative study methodology based on the questionnaires from the in-depth interviews, participant observations, and literature review. The study surveyed 340 Korean men in their 20s and 30s. The cosmetic involvement of the target group was classified into the amusing high-involvement group, the rational low-involvement group, and the obligatory high-involvement group. The results from this study indicated that the groups of male customers classified by cosmetic involvement showed statistically significant differences in terms of information searches and purchasing behaviors. Especially, the obligatory high-involvement group generally displayed high-involvement traits likewise the amusing highinvolvement, was more similar to the rational low-involvement group regarding cost effectiveness than the obligatory high-involvement group. Moreover, the classifications of men generally had different characteristics of cosmetic purchasing behavior and information searches than women. This study has a distinctive significance compared with other studies in discovering differences of cosmetic purchasing behaviors of Korean men in their 20s and 30s’ cosmetic involvement groups classified using qualitative and quantitative approaches.
4,800원
7.
2017.12 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study aims to gather precise information on the real fabric color and texture, and purchasing intention of mobile shoppers buying clothes. Eighty volunteers participated in the sensory test on three smartphones with four colors and two fabricssmooth taffeta and hairy doeskin. This study carried out the posteriori test using the one-way ANOVA and Duncan test by SPSS21.0. In the analysis’ results of color preference, there were no differences among the four colors of taffeta between the smartphones, but different preferences between the red and yellow doeskin exist. In the case of the Samsung phone, which has an immense color distortion, the red fabric has a low color preference. In contrast, on the Apple phone yellow fabric had the highest preference because of its brightness. The Apple phone also has the highest purchasing intention of yellow colored taffeta, which is similar to the color preference results, although the real fabric has the opposite result. For doeskin, the real red and blue colored fabric has the highest purchasing intention. The Samsung phone has the biggest color mismatch with the real fabric. It also has the lowest purchasing intention of red taffeta fabric, while the LG phone has the lowest purchasing intention of blue fabric. Using the paired comparison method of the similarity between ‘real’ fabrics and the mobile version of fabric colors has a low similarity on all four colors of taffeta and doeskin fabrics. Therefore it can be concluded that phones do not represent the ‘real’ fabric color.
4,300원
8.
2017.12 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
Considering that the effectiveness of ads varies according to the credibility of consumers, it is necessary to establish data regarding consumer credibility in relation to online reviews. To conduct a successful study on the marketing strategies of online reviews, it is also necessary to analyze the relationship between credibility and the various factors that influence the purchase intentions of consumers. Therefore, this study attempted to examine the relationship between consumer trust of on-line reviews, brand preference, ads credibility, and purchase intentions in relation to cosmetics. The study was conducted through a normative descriptive survey method using stimuli and a self-administered questionnaire. Analysis of the structural equation model was conducted for the data analysis. The results revealed that consumer reliance on online reviews of cosmetics influences brand preference, credibility of brand ads and purchase intentions. The results also revealed that consumers’ on-line reviews, brand preference, and trust of brand ads are important factors for increasing the purchase intentions. The mediation effect of brand preference and brands’ ads credibility were found in the process where on-line reviews exercise an influence on the purchase intentions. It was also found that brand preference has a stronger influence on purchase intention than credibility of brand ads. It was discovered that the credibility of on-line reviews directly influences purchase intentions more than indirectly influences. Considering the results of this study, programs that encourage customers to post on-line reviews, and strategies to promote brand preference by targeting groups that exhibit high trust in online reviews would be recommended.
4,900원
9.
2017.12 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
As the excavated costumes from the unknown tomb of the Joseon Dynasty were unearthed, estimating the age of the costumes became very important. This research investigat and estimates the age of the excavated costumes from Couple`s Tomb for Lee General in Seosan, Chung-nam. By inspecting and analyzing the costumes, the features can be compared with other similar costumes that have been excavated from other tombs. The result of this study is as follows: First, the period with dopo, cheolrik, jungchimak, and baji for females among the relics of General Lee can be estimated. For dopo, there are morphometric features such as the shape of moo; for cheolrik, there is a ratio of top and bottom; for jungchimak, there is a ratio of width of arm and skit and a ratio of side tim, total length, etc. By comparing relics of same period, it can be estimated to be from the late 16 century around the Japanese invasion of Korea to the early 17 century. Second, the period with jangui and jeogori among the relics of Couple's Tomb for General Lee can be estimated. By comparing jangui with the arm and width of sleeves, and by comparing jeogori and the shape of the collar, arm, length, etc., with other relics identical to the period, it can be estimated to be from the late 16 century around the Japanese invasion of Korea, which is a similar date to the one with the husband to the early 17 century.
4,800원
10.
2017.12 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
The purpose of this study is to analyze Alexander Wang’s collections representing the athleisure look, and suggest a multilateral direction for fashion design based on the data. The present study examines literature, journals, and mass media to define the athleisure look and understand the background of its emergence, and assess its key design characteristics. The collections examined are from 2007 fall/winter to 2017 spring/summer, and T by Alexander Wang from 2011 spring/summer to 2016 fall/ winter. A total of 446 photos were collected and verified by a group of experts. The characteristics of the athleisure look in Alexander Wang’s collections were described by the following themes: dynamism (39.46%), unexpectedness (34.30%), sensuality (14.57%), and resistance (11.65%). Results revealed a number of findings: First, regarding the sensuality of the athleisure look found in Alexander Wang’s collections, it was found to exhibit the lines of the human body and highlight sexiness and healthy beauty - with either direct or indirect body exposure. Second, the concept of dynamism is the most frequently seen - utilizing items with a comfortable or loose fit or materials that are flexible to enhance activity. Third, resistance appears as a specific style using aggressive and rough decorations. Alexander Wang’s signature color, black, appears often, and showcases resistance through black clothing and fashion. Fourth, the unexpectedness of the athleisure look found in Alexander Wang’s collections creates its own uniqueness with playful expressions made by various materials’ mixed and matched or made visually fun.
5,200원
11.
2017.12 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
In this study, the appearance change and the heat․moisture transfer properties of knitted fabric by yarn shrinkage were examined to obtain useful data on the development of thermo-sensitive functional materials. Eleven types of knitted fabric were knitted using highly bulky acrylic-blended yarn. After shrinking the specimens using dry heat treatment, the appearance change and thickness were measured. An HEC simulator was adopted for measuring the heat․moisture transfer properties of specimens by yarn shrinkage. When holes were arranged vertically in the mesh structure, the specimens with 2,500 and 5,000 holes showed high percent change of hole area, appearance, and thickness. When holes were diagonally arranged in the mesh structure, the percent change of hole area in the specimen with 1,250 holes was larger than the one with 2,500 holes. However, the dimensional stability of the specimen with 2,500 holes was better because of its smaller appearance and thickness change. In the tuck structure, the percent change of hole area in the specimen with 625 and 416 holes was relatively large compared with the appearance and thickness change. Furthermore, the hole size in the tuck structure was smaller than that in the mesh structure but the percent change of hole area was larger. Therefore, it was proved that the tuck structure is more suitable than the mesh structure for developing thermo-sensitive functional materials. Heat․moisture transfer property test verified that the change of hole area by yarn shrinkage enabled obtaining the thermal effect due to the distinct temperature difference in the inner layer.
4,500원
12.
2017.12 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
Crowdsourcing models in which organizaions obtain needed product ideas and services from a crowd in a network-based society are rising as a global industry trend. The purpose of this study was to figure out the types and characteristics of crowdsourcing design shown in the domestic fashion brands, and to provide implications for design strategies using crowdsourcing. This study was based on qualitative research which was brand case studies on crowdsourcing design in the fashion industry from January 2006 to July 2017. Also, quantitative analysis using frequency and percentage was applied. The results were as follows: First, crowdsourcing design was used in almost all types of fashion brands, such as sports and outdoor wear, men’s wear, women’s wear, men’s and women’s casual wear, shoes, bags, school uniforms, jeans, accessories, etc. Crowdsourcing design in the fashion industry was classified into three types: crowdsourcing graphics and artwork; crowdsourcing customized designs; and crowdsourcing product designs. Of the three types, crowdsourcing graphics and artwork was used most. There were four methods to choose the best crowsourced design: review only by experts, voting by crowd and review by experts, crowdvoting, and crowdfunding. Second, the characteristics of crowdsourcing design were openness, participation, reward and acknowledgement, sharing and interaction, and individualized collective intelligence. Crowdsourcing design could be used as an open innovation strategy in the fashion industry, which could collect new and creative design ideas for product development, resulting in the satisfaction of consumers and benefitting the company.
5,500원
13.
2017.12 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
This study is based on the results of the 7th Korea Human Size Survey (Size Korea). The standard body shapes of Korean women between 25 and 34 years old were analyzed and used to develop a prototype princess line for wedding dresses. or this purpose I conducted a literature review and a survey of the actual situation of domestic ligaments. In order to select suitable ligaments for the standard body type of 25~34 year-old Korean women, I collected the most representative ligaments from around the world: Stock man from France, Superior from the USA, KIIYA from Japan, and Pig and Nonno from Korea. They were then compared and analyzed. In the form of a formal wedding dress, a prototype princess line was developed by a draping technique in order to finely implement the human body fitting. To develop the prototype of the princess line, I made test garments with muslin. 25 to 34 years old Korean female standard body type Three human subjects close to the average measurement value were selected as subjects. An exterior appearance evaluation questionnaire was created with 28 questions focusing on the main parts of the prototype princess line. The clothes were evaluated three times. In this study, aesthetic and functional elements were considered for the development of princess line prototypes for wedding dresses. In addition, the amount of spare area was given differently. This study is significant in the achievement of a dress line closest that closely matches the human body line of the standard Korean female body type.
4,800원
14.
2017.12 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
Social media has become an integral part of consumers’ daily lives. Individuals connect with one another on social networking sites to like, share, and post information and experiences. As social media become popular among millennials, a growing number of fashion retailers use social media networks in the context of online commerce transactions. Accordingly, an increased number of fashion retailers has been using social media as an advertising tool and a retail channel. Despite the popularity of social media among millennials, empirical findings are limited to reveal factors associated with young consumers’ intentions to use social commerce in fashion shopping. This study sought to examine factors affecting millennials’ intentions to use social commerce in fashion shopping by adopting the technology acceptance model. A total of 524 college students completed an online survey in the U.S. The results of structural equation model confirmed that perceived ease of use, usefulness, and enjoyment had a positive impact on millennials’ attitudes and intentions toward fashion shopping in social commerce. While both perceived ease of use and usefulness positively influenced enjoyment, usefulness had a stronger impact than ease of use. Compared to usefulness, enjoyment had much stronger impact on attitudes. Further structural model analysis revealed a direct, positive influence of perceived usefulness of social commerce on perceived enjoyment of social commerce, which has not been explored in prior studies. These findings provide theoretical and managerial implications.
4,800원