간행물
복식문화연구 KCI 등재 The Research Journal of the Costume Culture 服飾文化硏究
- 발행기관 복식문화학회
- 자료유형 학술지
- 간기 격월간
- ISSN 1226-0401 (Print)2383-6334 (Online)
- 수록기간 1993 ~ 2026
- 주제분류 자연과학 > 생활과학 자연과학 분류의 다른 간행물
- 십진분류KDC 381DDC 391
권호리스트/논문검색
34권 3호 (2026년 6월) 10건
1.
2026.06
구독 인증기관·개인회원 무료
Jeehong Park, Jongsun Kim, Seowon Heo, Jisoo Ha
This study examined the functional comfort and perceived acceptability of selfdeformable knit skirts using Nitinol modules. Four skirts were prepared by combining two silhouettes, straight and flare, with two levels of distributed module density, four modules and six modules. Ten women participated in a repeated-measures evaluation in which all four garments were worn and assessed. Functional comfort was measured for each skirt in terms of mobility, thermal comfort, tactile comfort, donning, alignment usability, shape stability, and overall satisfaction. Perceived acceptability based on the WEAR framework was assessed after participants tried both the four-module and the six-module skirts. The flared skirt with six modules received the highest mean score for overall functional comfort, whereas the straight skirt with six modules had the highest mobility score. Shape stability differed significantly, with the flared six-module skirt receiving the highest scores. In contrast, tactile comfort remained relatively low across all garments, and open-ended responses identified prickling sensations, stiffness at the connection area, and the need for better lining or finishing as major areas of discomfort. There was no significant difference in WEAR-based perceived acceptability between the four-module or six-module skirts, suggesting that functional comfort and product acceptability did not vary. These findings indicate that the effect of module density should not be interpreted linearly and that the development of self-deformable skirts depends not only on actuation performance but also on finishing quality, alignment usability, tactile comfort, and balanced integration into wearable garments.
2.
2026.06
구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
Seowon Heo, Chahong Chung, Jisoo Ha
As the use of 3D virtual garment simulation expands in fashion design, virtual fashion presentation, and product visualization, understanding how users perceive garment movement is a critical and underexplored area. This study investigated users’ visual perception of and preferences for virtual clothing in dynamic contexts by analyzing the perceived naturalness of virtual flared skirts in motion. A 3 × 2 × 2 factorial design was employed to create 12 videos, with skirt length, wind effect, and walking speed as independent variables. Data were collected from 139 participants who evaluated the videos based on perceived naturalness, harmony, reality, flexibility, and preference. Walking speed and wind had statistically significant impacts on visual perception, with slow walking speed rated more highly. There was also an interaction between skirt length and wind, as short skirts were more highly rated than longer skirts in windy conditions. A multiple regression analysis indicated that perceived harmony was the strongest predictor of preference. In sum, simulation parameters such as walking speed and wind effects should be carefully calibrated to optimize the visual quality of virtual garment presentations. The findings contribute to foundational research for optimizing the dynamic presentation of 3D virtual garments, including flared skirts in particular, in both academic and practical contexts, including virtual fitting, digital fashion content, and e-commerce applications.
5,400원
3.
2026.06
구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
Developing a digital product passport information framework for sustainable fashion design processes
Jihyeon Kim, Eun Kyoung Yang
This study reinterprets the Digital Product Passport (DPP), introduced under the EU Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR), not as a post-development information tool but as a design condition embedded throughout the fashion design process. It proposes a design framework that links DPP requirements to stage-based decision-making in fashion design. While existing studies have focused on policy, technological infrastructure, and supply chain management, limited attention has been given to integrating DPP into design decision-making. This study reviews ESPR-related policy documents and prior research to derive six core DPP information categories using a literature-based approach. These categories are then integrated into a seven-stage fashion design process, building on the model of Lamb and Kallal by adding a stage for “information design and lifecycle integration.” This study identifies how DPP information functions as design decision criteria across various stages. Finally, the findings are synthesized into a framework integrating DPP information and post-launch feedback. DPP information in fashion is categorized into six domains: traceability, material and chemical data, supply chain information, environmental impact, use and care, and end-of-life management. When mapped onto the seven-stage design process, DPP requirements guide design directions during the design refinement stage and translate into product-level data at the prototype development stage. This study integrates both pre-design and post-launch feedback and reconceptualizes DPP as an embedded design condition, contributing to a theoretical link between design practice and regulatory compliance.
5,100원
4.
2026.06
구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
Hyun Jin Cho
This study explores the application of traditional Korean Jogakbo compositional principles to the development of contemporary zero-waste fashion products. Focusing on the repetitive geometric structures of triangles and squares found in Jogakbo, the study investigates their potential as a culturally grounded design methodology for sustainable fashion within the context of K-fashion. Based on a theoretical review of Jogakbo construction methods, triangular and square modular systems were derived and applied to the development of fashion bags using a 3D virtual design program. As a result, eight zero-waste bag designs were developed. The findings indicate that the geometric composition of Jogakbo is highly compatible with zero-waste pattern design. Triangular compositions enabled dynamic and flexible forms through directional variation and asymmetrical arrangements, resulting in visually diverse and sculptural structures, while square compositions generated stable and systematic forms based on grid-like arrangements, supporting structural balance and functional storage capacity. In addition, all designs were developed by systematically dividing and utilizing a single square fabric piece, demonstrating the potential for near-zero material waste through geometric pattern planning. The study further suggests that the modular application of Jogakbo compositional principles can serve as an effective design framework that integrates traditional Korean aesthetics with contemporary sustainability values. The 3D virtual design program facilitated efficient pattern development and visualization of three-dimensional forms prior to production. Ultimately, this research demonstrates that Jogakbo-inspired modular design can function as a valuable resource for sustainable fashion product development and contribute to strengthening the cultural identity and global competitiveness of K-fashion.
5,200원
5.
2026.06
구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
Junho Kang, Giyoung Kwon
This study aims to identify expressions of absurdity in digital fashion and to examine their aesthetic meanings. Drawing on philosophical discussions of absurdity and its visual manifestations in art, the study explores how digital fashion reconstructs the relationships among the body, clothing, and space within digital environments. Through a literature review and case analysis, analytical criteria were established by examining theories of absurdity and the characteristics of digital environments. Twelve digital fashion images published since 2020 were selected for analysis according to visual and formal characteristics, including transformations of form, body–clothing relationships, and the coexistence of reality and virtuality. The findings identified three expressions of absurdity in digital fashion: disrupted relationships, indeterminate forms, and deconstructed composition. These expressions appeared through the disjunction of body, clothing, avatar, and digital space; fluid transformations and immaterial textures; and fragmented structures with nonlinear arrangements. These expressions produced three aesthetic meanings: cognitive instability, structural incoherence, and semantic indeterminacy. The findings suggest that absurdity in digital fashion functions not merely as visual distortion or unrealistic imagery but as an aesthetic condition that reconsiders conventional modes of perception, composition, and meaning. By revealing how digital environments reshape relationships among visual elements, this study provides a theoretical framework for understanding contemporary digital fashion and contributes to discussions of the aesthetic meanings and visual expressions of absurdity in digital fashion.
5,200원
6.
2026.06
구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
Hyunsook Kim
This study aimed to analyze research trends in clothing construction studies published in major Korean clothing and textile journals from 2020 to 2025. A total of 310 articles published in six Korean academic journals were collected and classified into eight research topics, including special clothing and functional clothing, body shape, clothing blocks and patterns, garment fit, and clothing sizing systems. Frequency and percentage analyses were conducted according to journal, year, and research topic. The results indicated that The Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles showed the highest proportion of clothing construction articles (23.3%, n=105). Overall, approximately 50 articles were published annually. The number of articles decreased until 2022 and then increased, with the highest number published in 2025. Special clothing and functional clothing research accounted for the highest proportion, followed by studies on body shape and clothing blocks and patterns. Functional sportswear, protective clothing, body shape analysis, and customized pattern development reflecting body characteristics were actively studied. In addition, digital-based research topics such as 3D virtual fitting, digital pattern design, and size recommendation systems attracted increasing attention. Differences in research focus were also observed among journals. Overall, the findings indicate that clothing construction research has expanded from traditional pattern-centered studies to digital technology-based evaluation and verification methods. They suggest that current clothing construction research increasingly reflects functionality, body-shape adaptability, and digital technologies. This study provides foundational data for understanding recent changes in clothing construction research and suggests a future direction for the field.
4,500원
7.
2026.06
구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
Koh Woon Kim
This study examines the everyday world and fashion culture of pro-ana women, focusing on how style codes organize hierarchy, authenticity, and performativity within pro-ana online communities. While existing research has largely approached pro-ana as a pathological phenomenon or a site of body politics, less attention has been paid to the ways in which fashion and visual style operate as internal mechanisms of distinction. To address this gap, this study employs focused ethnography, drawing on in-depth interviews with 13 women who currently or previously engaged in pro-ana practices, supplemented by netnographic and participant observation. The analysis yields four key findings. First, participants positioned pro-ana ambivalently between dieting and eating disorders, framing it as both a pathological condition and a deliberate performance of self-control. Second, despite being grounded in anonymity, pro-ana communities were structured by internal hierarchies negotiated through account atmospheres, self-records, reposting activities, and visual practices. Third, a discourse of disciplined self-management extended pro-ana beyond bodily control to the regulation of everyday life as an idealized self-image. Fourth, style codes functioned not as mere preferences but as symbolic resources distinguishing newcomers, long-term members, and imitative accounts. This study introduces the concept of sensory capital to argue that fashion in pro-ana communities operates as a visual language of power through which identity, legitimacy, and internal distinction are produced and recognized, reflecting an inverted aesthetic logic that values restraint and embodied suffering over conventional attractiveness.
5,100원
8.
2026.06
구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
Soohyun Lee
The growing emphasis on sustainable development across industries has prompted the fashion sector to explore responsible and resource-efficient practices. Applying this theoretical framework to the development of original fashion works, this study investigates the relationship between Korean aesthetic consciousness and sustainable fashion design. The research proceeds in three stages. First, a literature review was conducted to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of Korean aesthetic consciousness, categorized as aesthetic naturalism, elegant simplicity, and aesthetic humor, and to examine how these characteristics relate theoretically to sustainable fashion design principles, such as cyclicity, ornamentation, and deconstructivity. Second, based on this analysis, key design attributes were derived and used to develop six sustainable fashion works using the theme of Haya (夏夜, summer night), with motifs drawn from the Cheonghwa Baekja, a cicada, and pearls. Third, digital prototyping was carried out using the CLO 3D program, and final garments were produced with secondhand items, deadstock materials, and textile waste. The results demonstrate that upcycled materials can yield aesthetically sophisticated and functional garments. They also show that Korean aesthetic values provide a culturally grounded framework for sustainable fashion practice. The use of 3D CLO effectively reduced carbon emissions associated with physical sampling and enabled the verification of resource usage. This study proposes a creative method for integrating Korean aesthetics into sustainable fashion design and provides practical directions for future sustainable fashion development.
4,800원
9.
2026.06
구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
Yoon Jung Ko, Eunhyuk Yim
In traditional societies grounded in a binary gender system, dress articulates the idealized images of men and women prescribed by power. Accordingly, this study aims to elucidate the mechanisms of gendered dress norms in Confucian didactic texts for women during the Joseon dynasty, which serve as an example illustrating the influence of social discourse on individual dress behavior. Drawing on qualitative content analysis, this study categorized 46 dress norms were identified from 27 Confucian didactic texts for women and interpreted through Judith Butler’s concepts of performativity and parody. The findings reveal two underlying mechanisms in the operation of gender roles: de-subjectivized repetition and the imitation of idealized models. Norms mandating a neat appearance, routine of self-censorship, and faithful performance of weaving and sewing obscured the fact that their actions followed a regulatory script. Furthermore, women in Joseon viewed self-mutilation as a model of virtuous femininity and utilized their role in clothing production to support men's social success, like exemplary wives from the past. In conclusion, the dress norms in Confucian didactic texts for women helped sustain the ideal Confucian social order, creating a framework in which Joseon women gendered expectation regarding appearance and behavior as natural duties through repeated imitation.
5,400원
10.
2026.06
구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
Seo-young Byun, Hosun Lim
This study analyzes body shape changes over time among tall men in their 20s and 30s to provide foundational data for establishing an appropriate sizing system. Subjects included men aged 20－39 in the top 25% by height: 437 from the 6th Korean anthropometric survey and 279 from the 8th. Additionally, 62 items, including 60 direct measurements and 2 index items, were analyzed using descriptive statistics and an independent samples t-test. First, body shape changes by measurement year showed statistically significant differences in most items. Stature increased significantly, with shifts in upward waist and downward hip positions, indicating altered proportions. Shoulder measurements increased significantly, while chest, waist, and hip circumferences showed greater increases than other measurements. All breadth and depth measurements increased, indicating expanded horizontal dimensions. Weight and BMI reached obesity classification in the 8th survey, confirming body size increase and obesity trends. Second, analysis by measurement year and age group revealed both groups had similar increases in stature and shoulder measurements. Men in their 30s exhibited a greater increase in waist height and a smaller increase in hip height, along with more noticeable proportional changes. They also experienced significantly larger increases in chest, waist, and hip circumferences, which are important for pattern design, and displayed stronger tendencies toward obesity. Third, two-way analysis of variance revealed significant interactions for horizontal dimensions and obesity indices, indicating age-specific temporal changes. These findings necessitate a new sizing system reflecting age-specific body shape changes for tall men in their 20s and 30s.
4,800원
