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The everyday world and fashion culture of pro-ana women - Style codes’ organization of hierarchy, authenticity, and performativity in pro-ana communities - KCI 등재

프로아나 여성의 일상세계와 패션문화 - 프아판 위계와 수행의 스타일 코드 연구 -

Koh Woon Kim
  • 언어KOR
  • URLhttps://db.koreascholar.com/Article/Detail/452427
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복식문화연구 (The Research Journal of the Costume Culture)
복식문화학회 (The Costume Culture Association)
초록

This study examines the everyday world and fashion culture of pro-ana women, focusing on how style codes organize hierarchy, authenticity, and performativity within pro-ana online communities. While existing research has largely approached pro-ana as a pathological phenomenon or a site of body politics, less attention has been paid to the ways in which fashion and visual style operate as internal mechanisms of distinction. To address this gap, this study employs focused ethnography, drawing on in-depth interviews with 13 women who currently or previously engaged in pro-ana practices, supplemented by netnographic and participant observation. The analysis yields four key findings. First, participants positioned pro-ana ambivalently between dieting and eating disorders, framing it as both a pathological condition and a deliberate performance of self-control. Second, despite being grounded in anonymity, pro-ana communities were structured by internal hierarchies negotiated through account atmospheres, self-records, reposting activities, and visual practices. Third, a discourse of disciplined self-management extended pro-ana beyond bodily control to the regulation of everyday life as an idealized self-image. Fourth, style codes functioned not as mere preferences but as symbolic resources distinguishing newcomers, long-term members, and imitative accounts. This study introduces the concept of sensory capital to argue that fashion in pro-ana communities operates as a visual language of power through which identity, legitimacy, and internal distinction are produced and recognized, reflecting an inverted aesthetic logic that values restraint and embodied suffering over conventional attractiveness.

키워드
프로아나온라인 하위문화패션문화부분적 문화기술지 pro-anaonline subculturefashion culturefocused ethnography
목차
Abstract
I. Introduction
Ⅱ. Theoretical Background
    1. Pathological discourses and socioculturalapproaches surrounding pro-ana
    2. Online subcultures, anonymity, and symbolicboundaries
    3. Fashion, performativity, and visual codes ofhierarchy
Ⅲ. Research Methodology
    1. Research participants and scope
    2. Data collection and analysis procedures
Ⅳ. Results
    1. Self-definition of the thin body and thestarting point of pro-ana performance
    2. Formation of hierarchy through accountaesthetics and image interpretation
    3. The “godsaeng” image and the stylization ofthe managed body
    4. Style codes and sensory capital: distinctionmakingamong newbies, concept accounts, andseasoned insiders
Ⅴ. Conclusion
References
저자
  • Koh Woon Kim(Assistant Professor, Dept. of Fashion Design, Duksung Women’s University, Korea) | 김고운 (덕성여자대학교 의상디자인전공 조교수) Corresponding author