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Formative characteristics of Erté's fashion illustrations on the covers of Harper's Bazaar KCI 등재

하퍼스 바자 표지에 나타난 에르떼 패션 일러스트레이션의 조형적 특성 연구

Seong-a Hur
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복식문화연구 (The Research Journal of the Costume Culture)
복식문화학회 (The Costume Culture Association)
초록

Erte was one of the most influential fashion illustrators of the twentieth century, shaping the visual identity of Harper's Bazaar through more than two decades of cover artwork. This study analyzed the formative characteristics of Erte's fashion illustrations on the covers of Harper's Bazaar from 1915 to 1936. A total of 126 cover illustrations were analyzed across three periods: the Art Nouveau period (1915–1919), the transitional period (1920–1924), and the Art Deco period (1925–1936). Six formative elements were used as analytical criteria: line expression, light and shadow composition, color, exotic motifs, human proportion, and surface detail. The results indicated a shift from organic curves to geometric straight lines, preserving a delicate and decorative vitality. The use of shading and flat color planes set his work apart from realism. Color evolved from soft pastel tones to bold primary colors and metallic hues. Exotic motifs from Egyptian, Persian, and Asian cultures were reinterpreted through his unique decorative style. Elongated human proportions functioned as an independent decorative form, while intricate surface patterns created a dual structure of simplicity and detailed complexity. Furthermore, four aesthetic meanings were identified: visual communication of the zeitgeist, feminine elegance and delicate sensibility, exoticism and orientalism, and innovative modernity. These findings show how Erte's illustrations bridged decorative art and mass media, capturing shifting aesthetic values across two major stylistic movements. The findings are expected to provide practical references for contemporary fashion design and visual content production.

키워드
에르떼패션 일러스트레이션조형적 특성하퍼스 바자잡지 표지 Ertéfashion illustrationformative characteristicsHarper's Bazaarmagazine cover
목차
Abstract
I. Introduction
Ⅱ. Review of Literature
    1. Artistic identity and visual language of Erté
    2. Development of fashion illustration and magazinemedia
    3. Stylistic foundation of Erté's work: from ArtNouveau to Art Deco
Ⅲ. Results and Discussion
    1. Expressive characteristics by formative element
    2. Aesthetic meanings of the formative characteristics
Ⅳ. Conclusion
References
저자
  • Seong-a Hur(Ph. D., Dept. of Fashion Design, Hongik University, Korea) | 허성아 (홍익대학교 디자인공예학과 의상학전공 박사) Corresponding author