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        검색결과 2

        1.
        2015.06 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
        Global interest in smart-wear has risen rapidly in the 21stcentury. “Smart-wear” is one application of intelligent textiles and refers to all clothes made with intelligent textiles (or those that are a convergence). New developments represent a positive opportunity for the fashion industry to integrate new technologies to evolve. Smart-wear also includes wearable computers or digital clothing defined as “garment-integrated devices which augment the functionality of clothing, or which impart information-processing functionality to a garment”. The garment is an ideal interface medium between humans and electronic products due to interaction and technologies in the fashion industry. Smart-wear represents the future of both the textile/clothing industry and electronic industry. Smart-wear for transformable garments allow the conversion of aesthetics and functionality into multiple looks and functions that satisfy various user needs and wants. Smart-wear offers a potential paradigm shift. Precedent studies have focused on the role of transformation to understand the relationship and interaction between humans and new digital technologies (Petersen, Iversen, Krogh, & Ludvigsen, 2004). Hussein Chalayan created aa transformer dress that can twitch and reconfigure. The long Victorian dress hemline contracts into a flapper style dress. Berzowska created dresses that use shape memory alloys to move and change in continuous motions (Ariyatum & Holland, 2003).Perocich used a pneumatic approach to lift garments and change the appearance of clothes (von Radziewsky, Krüger, & Löchtefeld, 2015).Lee & Kim(2014) built a shape-changing dress which apply fabric properties and illuminance sensor to fold pleats. The idea of changing the overall appearance of clothes seems promising. Contemporary smart-wear has various functions that include sensing, actuating, powering, generating, storing, communicating, data processing and connecting. Technologies to develop digital applications can be easily controlled by smart-wear using an Arduino (Na & Cho, 2009). An embedded system for using Arduino can be worn like clothing or an accessory that is a favorable for shop window display. Shop window displays of fashion products have cultural consumption and fashioned identities that have developed into forms of art themselves and produce interesting imagery within fashion culture. In recent decades store window displays have become a unique form of advertising and are the first point of contact between the shop and the shopper (Crewe, 2015). The shop window display design might not instantly attract attention until the shopper realizes its interactive aspects. Such an interaction visually reveals a relationship between the store window and shopper's reaction. In order to connect these shop window displays with an interactive fashion design, this paper aims to illustrate how these concepts fit into the prototype. This paper develops a prototype of Wearable Shape-Changing (WSC) that deforms the fabric for pleat making on clothing for a store window dummy. Data processing is created by the motion of a shopper for the input functionality to discriminate between different shopper motions using the Microsoft Kinect sensor. A concealed Kinetic system scans every part of shopper’s joint for skeleton extraction when the shopper is outside the shop window. It is able to detect the shopper’s simple motion and simultaneously deliver information to the Arduino in the system. The prospective fashion display system needs to be devised based on a more serious technical method that utilizes information on the physical properties of fabrics to facilitate development in the store window. There has been some discussion on how fabrics could create foldable clothing items; in addition, a range folding techniques has been extended to e-textile due to useful characteristics (Perovich, Mothersill, & Farah, 2014). The experiments performed in this paper allows observers to examine basic fabric characteristics and physical properties. The behavior changes during fold deformation and the recovery process as well as identifies correlations between stiffness and recovery rate. As an experimental sample, this paper selects 2 types of fabric that have relatively stiff characteristics of a organza (one is 100% silk and the other is 100% polyester). The pleats type selects a diamond-pattern and the pleats finishing process employs a heat-setting method commonly used in the fashion industry. The results were as follows: The Silk organza has 66 weight(g/㎡) and 0.17 nominal thickness (㎜) and the Polyester organza has 39.6 weight(g/㎡) and 0.11 nominal thickness (㎜). Both silk and polyester samples have the large stiffness value in the weft direction. Tensile properties resulted in similar values in both the warp and in the weft directions. Polyester has a great thermothermos plasticity, unique resilience, providing good pleats retention and crease recovery while silk has a low wrinkle recovery. However, silk has identical recovery rate in first and second elongation deformations for diamond-pattern pleats. The diamond-pattern also has a significant correlation with the warp and bias directions. Thus, folding composition should consider the directions of the fabric according to folding technique. Based on the experiment’s results among fabric samples’ physical properties of silk were chosen for the prototype. In the prototype, the shop window displaying dummy wears a long dress, but it is designed to become shorter when the shopper lifts the arm. The mechanism by the operating design pulls the hemline in the front up to the lower thigh when the kinetic sensor detects motion. As a means of visual communications or expression of the shopper’s mood, illuminance may be attached according to the shopper’s discretion. The advantage of the WSC dress compared to a traditional static dress is that the transforming shape occurs immediately by means of interaction. Future studies, different approaches were proposed to clothing both hand and finger movements in a mobile environment. This paper focuses on a set of alliances between technology and fashion/textiles, with the WSC designed as an interface to be used for both purposes. This study represents a bridge between fashionable technologies and informative material properties. It represents a small first step from static dynamic fashion to dynamic interactive fashion.
        3,000원
        2.
        2015.06 구독 인증기관 무료, 개인회원 유료
        Drape is the ability of a fabric to hang in folds when suspended under its own weight as shown in the skirt folds (Sanad, Cassidy, Cheung, & Evans, 2013). Drape characteristics of a fabric is closely related to the physical and mechanical properties including bending rigidity, weight, and shear rigidity of the fabric. Fiber type, yarn structure, fabric weave structure, and finishing methods also affect the fabric drape. Occasionally, fabric drape is subjectively evaluated by the staffs in the case of apparel sectors. Since the staff’s evaluation might involve some degree of inconsistencies, partly due to the personal preference, and fashion trend changes, or lack of reproducibility, many research reports have been published regarding the methods to measure the fabric drape characteristics objectively and accurately. A pioneering method regarding objective tests to measure fabric bending length, as a measure for fabric draping, was developed (Peirce, 1930). Research by Schwarz (1939) showed technical evaluation method for fabrics treated with finishing agents. Chu, Cummings, and Teixeira (1950) developed a drape meter to study the factors affecting the fabric drape, based on an optical system to cast the image of round fabric specimen on the ground glass. Generally accepted test methods have enabled researchers determine the fabric drape with improved reproducibility to mostly acceptable degrees (Cusick, 1968). However, the three dimensional shape of the folded structure often deforms with time or with subtle vibration around the fabric specimen during the drape measurement. Due to the uneven and complex nature of fabrics, the overall shape of the fabric specimen on the drape tester often becomes unstable. Since the fabric drape coefficient is more or less unstable due to the structural or physical factors of fabric specimens, such as bending and shear hysteresis, it is also important to consider the instabilities during the drape measurement procedure. Niwa and Morooka (1976) reported mechanical values contributing to the stability of the drape coefficient, and found that the larger the hysteresis per unit weight in bending deformation of fabric is, the larger the instability of the drape coefficient becomes for the fabric specimens used for men’s suit in the study. There is a need to understand the fundamental mechanisms of how draping may generate pleasing forms. Mizutani, Amano, and Sakaguchi (2005) devised a new apparatus for measuring the changes during the whole process of drape formation, using a type of drape elevator. They considered the generation of nodes and the developing process in relation to the mechanical properties of the fabric specimens. Mah and Song (2010) investigated fabric drape employing three-dimensional body scanning system. Laser scanners, in the system, project a horizontal line of light on the object, moving vertically along the length of the draped specimen. The scanned image can be rotated, resized and sliced. Recently three-dimensional scanning systems saw notable developments in the hardware and computing power. Henry, Krainin, Herbst, Ren, and Fox (2010) relied on depth sensor cameras for dense 3D modeling of indoor environments. RGB-D cameras rely on either structured light patterns combined with stereo sensing, or time-of-flight laser sensing, allowing relatively fast image acquisition, which capture RGB images along with per-pixel depth information. Commercially available RGB-D camera, such as one of the Prime Sense products based on light coding technology of pseudo-random infrared patterns, allows for the frame acquisition rate of 5 to 20 per second, depending on the configuration of the supporting computer system. The acquisition rate seems to be reasonable for the static fabric drape measurement. Therefore, the RGB-D sensor enables relatively rapid acquisition of the three dimensional information of the fabric drape. In this study, an RGB-D sensor was employed for three-dimensional scanning of fabric drape with drape elevator method proposed by Mizutani et al. (2005), and the drape measurement data were compared with the conventional drape test. Fabric specimens including cotton, linen, silk, wool, polyester, and rayon were investigated for the fabric drape and other physical/mechanical parameters. The results from the study suggest that the drape measurement method using the RGB-D sensor allows relatively rapid acquisition of three-dimensional drape information during the formation of fabric drape in the course of measurement process. It is suggested, however, that further in-depth study would be necessary due to the instability of the depth measurement around the sharp edges of the fabric folds. Future application of improved RGB-D sensor system in terms of the depth sensitivity is also suggested for the comparative study of the drape properties of fabrics employing both the RGB-D system and the conventional drape tester.
        3,000원