In this study, skin permeation enhancement was confirmed by designing it to have a structure and composition similarity to the intercellular lipids that improve miscibility with skin by cross-linked lipids poloxamer. The cross-linked lipids poloxamer was synthesized and analyzed by 1H NMR that structure dose had conjugated pluronic with ceramide3. Active component is released by modification of liquid crystal structure because PPO part, large-scale molecule block of pluronic, has hydrophobic nature at skin temperature of 35℃. Conjugated pluronic with ceramide3 was synthesized using Pluronic F127 and p-NPC (4-nitrophenyl chloroformate) at room temperature yielded 89%. Pluronic(Ceramide 3-conjugated Pluronic) was synthesized by reaction of p-NP-Pluronic with Ceramide3 and DMAP. The yield was 51%. This cross-linked lipids poloxamer was blended and dissolved at isotropic state with skin surface lipids, phospholipid, ceramide, cholesterol and anhydrous additive solvent. Next step was preceded by α-Transition at low temperature for making the structure of Meso-Phase Lamella, and non-hydrous skin analogue liquid crystal using thermo-sensitivity smart sensor, lamellar liquid crystal structure through aging time. For confirmation of conjugation thermo-sensitivity smart sensor and non-hydrous skin analogue liquid crystal, structural observation and stability test were performed using XRD(Xray Diffraction), DSC(Differential Scanning Calorimetry), PM (Polarized Microscope) And C-SEM (Cryo-Scanning Electron Microscope). Thermo-sensitivity observation by Franz cell revealed that synthesized smart sensor shown skin permeation effect over 75% than normal liquid crystal. Furthermore, normal non-hydrous skin analogue liquid crystal that not applied smart sensor shown similar results below 35℃ of skin temperature, but its effects has increased more than 30% above 35℃.

Recently, many cosmetic researchers have been focused on the development of high functional cosmetics including anti-wrinkle and whitening. In these studies, they couldn't afford to pay a deep attention to stable encapsulations for unstable materials and efficient drug deliveries for them. Particularly, in order to show a degree of instant effects as cosmetics, they can't also ignore moisturizing effect enough to satisfy customers just after applying and its maintenance by improving the function of skin barrier as well as above two effects. Therefore, skin analogue systems have attracted considerable attention in the view of structural and compositional similarity to intercellular membrane in stratum corneum. And, some models for skin analogue composition were developed to improve the function of skin barrier, stably encapsulate unstable materials such as retinol, vitamin B, C, E, etc., and control their skin penetration in order to show good effects as cosmetics. In this study, we suggest the new skin analogue model having the compositional similarity as well as conventional structural ones. Our skin analogue membrane(SAM) is mainly composed of ceramide/ cholesterol/phosphatidylcholin/fatty acids and its structural defects are compensated by including cholesterol amphiphile and controlling the ratio of ceramide/cholesterol. It was possible to confirm the formation of skin analogue membrane having highly-densed multilamella structure and compare them according to the change of each ratio with a polarized microscope, X-ray diffraction. More detaily, we observed their structures with a electron microscope(TEM). Finally, we dispersed them in excess of continuous water phase, observed the formation of maltese-cross liquid crystalline and measured the efficiency of drug deliveries and moisturizing effects.

오래전부터, 많은 여성들은 자신들의 젊음을 연장하고, 외모를 더 아름답게 가꾸고, 이를 죽을 때까지 유지하는 것을 바래왔다. 이에 의사와 약사들뿐만 아니라, 많은 화장품 연구자들도 노화와 관련된 기술개발에 총력을 기울여 왔다. 따라서, 이들 연구자들은 노화방지를 위한 새로운 원료를 찾고, 이를 안정화하고, 피부로 전달하는 기술개발에 항상 관심을 쏟아왔다. 뛰어난 노화방지 화장품 개발을 위해서, Ubiquinone의 일종인 ldebenone에 대해 연구하였고, 이를 비수계 피부유사막 기술을 가지고 캡슐화하고 약물전달하는 연구를 진행하였다. 먼저, 편광현미경(PM, Polarized Microscope), X-선 회절분석(XRD, X-ray Diffractions) 및 시차주사열량계 (DSC, Differential Scanning Calorimetry)를 이용하여 Idebenone을 담지한 피부유사막 액정을 비수계 조건에서 구조 및 열적특성을 조사하였다. 그 결과 비수계 조건에서도 규칙적으로 패킹(Packing)된 지질이중층(Lipid bilayer)과 용매의 연속층으로 이루어진 고밀집된 라멜라(Lamella) 구조의 형성유무와 이때의 상거동을 확인할 수 있었다. 결론적으로 높은 극성도로인해 물분자와 접촉하면 불안정해지는 경향이 있는 Idebenone을 비수계 조건에서 각질층(SC, Stratum Corneum)과 구조 및 조성이 유사한 피부유사막을 디자인하여 안정하게 캡슐화 하였다. 이를 적용한 화장품은 모든 보관조건에서 유화입자의 안정성을 유지함을 확인하였고, Idebenone의 활성역가 또한 40℃에서 6개월 동안 약 90%이상을 유지하는 우수한 결과를 나타냈다.