This study investigated the characteristics and changes of cotton and silk textile production in Honam district, especially in Gurye, Jella Province from the 1930s to the 1980s. To do this, research method in this study was both literature and fieldwork research and results were as follows. First, in terms of cotton fiber cultivation of Gurye, Chinese Cotton(在來綿) has been substituted for America Cotton(陸地綿) and additionally, Yellow Cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in the 1930s. Also, in terms of silk fiber cultivation of Gurye, Joseon Silkworm has been substituted for Japanese Silkworm by inflowing the Japanese mulberry tree. Second, in terms of spinning method, cotton spinning has been conducted at every house by an individual tool from the 1930s to the 1950s and has been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool. However, there have been no changes in silk spinning method from the 1930s to the 1980s. Third, loom type has been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom between the 1930s and the 1940s. Fourth, dyeing was conducted by chemical dyestuff after weaving. The circulation of textile was done through the joint market by Japan in the 1930s~1950s and has changed to the market sales by producers since the 1950s. Fifth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton and silk textile of Gurye have been reduced. This was connected with the westernization and the inflow of the synthetic fiber and cloth in cotton and was related to the changes of the nation policy and silk fiber inflow from the china to the Korean farm villages.

천연염색을 원예치료 프로그램에 활용하기 위한 자료 확보 차원에서 전통적인 청색염료인 대청(Isatis tinctoria)의 열수 추출물 1%액을 이용하여 염색온도와 시간을 달리하여 견과 면직물에 대한 염색성을 조사하였다. 염색 온도는 견직물의 경우 70～80℃에서, 면직물은 80～90℃에서 20분간 침지 염색을 하였으며, 매염은 명반[AlK(SO4)2·12H2O], 황산구리(CuSO4) 및 황산제1철(FeSO4)을 각각 3% 농도로 하여 25±2℃에서 20분간 후매염을 기본으로 하였다. 견과 면직물의 표면색은 R, RP 및 YR 계열로 나타났으며, 견과 면직물 모두 염색시간과 온도의 영향은 적게 받았으나 매염제 종류에 따른 차이가 컸다. 헌터 a값은 견직물의 경우 2.76～21.03, 면직물은 0.09～11.06을 나타냈으며, b값은 견직물의 경우 -0.16～16.50, 면직물은 -0.79～12.16을 나타내었다. 염색포의 ᐃE값은 견직물의 경우 27.23～44.11, 면직물은 11.36～20.98을 나타내었다. 따라서 견직물은 70～80℃, 면직물은 80～90℃에서 20분 정도로 염색을 하되, 매염제를 달리하여 다양한 색상으로 발색을 시키는 것이 좋을 것으로 생각된다.