In this study, We investigated the properites of nano-emulsions containing hydrogenated lecithin prepared by high pressure homogenizer. The size of droplet of emulsions prepared by homogenizer at various rpm (rotation per minute) was not measured due to the unstability of emulsions, however, the size of droplet of nano-emulsions prepared by high pressure homogenizer was around 300 nm and the appearance of emulsions was bluish. The stability of emulsions with various lecithin concentration was tested against time. POV (Peroxide value) of emulsions were plotted against time. POVs of emulsions prepared with an egg lecithin and a soy lecithin were increased with time, however, POV of emulsion with Lecinol S-10® was kept constant within 60 hours and at 60℃. In consumer test, the nano-emulsion showed higher affinity regardless of skin type. Both of irritation scores of emulsions were similar.

Provitamin B5 liquid crystal (PVB5-LC) was the new emulsion system to enhance moisturizing activity on the skin. In this study, it should be mentioned that PVB5-LC could be prepared with the main compound of hydrogenated lecithin (HL) in oil-in water (O/W) emulsion. The key ingredient of humectants was contained 2% of provitamin B5 (PVB5) into the PVB5-LC. The best suitable compositions of PVB5-LC were made from 4.0 wt% of HL, 4.0 wt% of cetostearyl alcohol (CSA) as emulsifier and gelling agent, 3.0 wt% of 1,3-butylene glycol (1,3-BG) and 2.0 wt% of glycerin as moisturizers, 3.0 wt% of cyclomethicone (CMC), 3.0 wt% of isononanoate (ININ), 3.0 wt% of capric/caprylic triglyceride (CCTG), 3.0 wt% of macadamia nut oil (MNO) as emollients. As the analytical result of PVB5-LC, it could know that the distribution range of particle size was 0.14 to 12.37 m level (mean size 3.24 m). It was certified the multi lamellar phase around the droplet of liquid crystal when observed the droplet particles through a polarization microscope. And it clinically was tested the effectiveness of moisturizing activity (in-vivo) compared with control sample (O/W emulsion). The effectiveness of moisturizing activity of PVB5-LC with Skincon-200EX after 6 hours went up 49.0% (p〈0.05, n=20) whereas the effectiveness of moisturizing activity of generally O/W emulsion cream was 25.7% (p〈005, n=20). Also, in case of Comeometer CM-825, the moisturizing activity of PVB5-LC after 6 hours rose 36.6% (p〈0.05, n=20) whereas the effectiveness of moisturizing activity of generally O/W emulsion cream was 10.8%. Therefore, it was known that the effectiveness moisturizing activity of PVB5-LC with HL was remarkably superior compared with O/W emulsion cream.

In this study, it should be mentioned that Lipid-LCG can be prepared with the main compound of hydrogenated lecithin in oil-in water emulsion. The results of its physical property and stability are as follows. First, the best suitable compositions of Lipid-LCG are made from 4.0wt% of the hydrogenated lecithin, 4.0wt% of cetostearyl alcohol as emulsifier and gelling agent, 3.0wt% of butylene glycol and 2.0wt% glycerin as moisturizers, 3.0wt% of cyclomethicone, 3.0wt% of isononyl-isononanoate, 3.0wt% of capric/caprylic triglycerides, 3.0wt% of macadamia oil as emollients. Second, As the optimum conditions to form Lipid-LCG, which figured out 6.0 ± 1.0 for pH level, 32kg/mm, min for hardness to make a .essence to be formed the ternary phase of liquid crystal(multi-lamellar type). Third, as the analytical result of this system, it obtained that particle size is 1~8μm level, and is certified with it at 400 and 1,000 magnifications by microscope. The stability of Lipid-LCG is very stable on condition of a low temperature (4℃), a room temperature (25℃) and a high temperature (40℃), which is not to be split in for a long time(for 3-month). We produced our own moisturizing essence, which has a good affinity to skin by means of this system.

We investigated the property of formation of mono-vesicle(designated nano-some) with using of the combined co-emulsifiers and phospholipid. Nano-some was prepared with hydrogenated lecithin(HL) and diethanolamine cetyl phosphate(DEA-CP) by swelling reaction. Kojic acid and kojic dipalmitate could be made stabilization by nano-some system using microfluidizer(MF). Nano-some has a good affinity to skin by means of this system. The composition was compounded by 2% of hydrogenated lecithin (phosphatidyl choline contained with 75%, 0.5% of DEA-CP and 0.5% of diglyceryl dioleate (DGDO). To make nano-some, several conditions of MF have to be considered as follows. The optimum pH was 6.0. The pressure was 10,000psi and passage temperature was at 306℃. The nano-some base was passed to homogenize continually 3 times through MF. The Particle size distributions of the vesicles were with in 57~75.7nm(mean 66nm) by measuring the Zetasizer-3000. Zeta potential of vesicles with 3 times passage through MF was -24.8mV. Formations for nano-some vesicle certificated photograph by scanning electric magnification (SEM). Stability of nano-some was very good for 6months. The turbidity was very good transparency compared nano-some with liposome. It was formed the mono vesicle in the opposite direction to be formed the multi-lamellar vesicle of liposome.

최근 전 세계적으로 석유 유래 합성 화장품 원료의 사용을 배제한 천연 화장품을 찾는 고객들이 계속적으로 증가하고 있지만 이러한 천연 화장품 중에서도 기능성을 소구하는 제품은 거의 없는 상황이다. 이는 천연 유래 원료 중에서 기능성이 검증된 원료가 거의 없을 뿐 아니라, 그러한 천연 기능성 원료들이 있다고 하더라도 그것들을 천연 원료만으로 안정한 제형을 유지하기가 매우 힘들기 때문이다. 본 연구는 난용성 천연 주름 기능성 물질인 올레아놀릭산을 천연 유래 수첨 레시틴을 이용하여 안정하게 가용화시키는 것에 관한 것이며, 유기농 화장품 인증이 가능한 가용화 제형의 처방을 개발하는 것을 목표로 하였다. 다른 합성 가용화제를 사용할 경우 45 ℃에서 2 ～ 3일 내에 올레아놀릭산의 석출이 관찰되었지만, 천연 유래 수첨 레시틴을 이용한 제형에서는 4주 동안 입자 크기의 큰 변화 없이 안정하게 유지되었다. 제형 내 올레아놀릭산의 함량은 25 ℃ 및 40 ℃에서 보관중인 샘플을 대상으로 24주간 측정하였는데, 두 온도에서 모두 90 % 이상을 보여주어 올레아놀릭산이 제형 내 분해 없이 안정하게 유지되는 것을 확인하였다. 또한 보습력 및 주름 개선 등의 임상시험을 통해 제품의 피부 효능과 안전성을 확인하였다.

오일/수첨 레시틴/물 계에서 전단력이 다른 두 혼합기로 제조된 나노에멀젼의 안정성에 대하여 연구하였으며, 계면활성제의 농도에 따른 나노에멀젼의 입자 크기와 안정성을 조사하였다. 입자의 크기는 광산란법에 의하여 측정하였으며 입자크기의 시간에 따른 변화를 관찰하였다. 실험 결과 나노 에멀젼 불안정화 과정은 Ostwald ripening에 의해 지배되었다. 입자 크기가 100 ∼ 200 nm 범위에서는 오일에 대한 계면활성제의 비율이 증가함에 따라 안정성이 감소하였으나 입자 크기가 300 ∼ 400 nm의 범위에서는 반대의 경향을 보였다.