본고는 조선후기 조선과 청나라에서 착용한 방한용 모자의 종별과 형식적 특징을 비교하여, 조선 모자의 종류가 많고 조선만의 고유한 특징을 지니고 있음을 밝혔다. 유교를 국시로 삼았던 조선은 衣冠을 갖추어 예의를 지키고자 하였기에, 항상 모자를 착용하여 종류가 많았다. 중국의 모자는 太平巾과 抹額뿐이었지만, 조선의 모자는 網 巾․탕건․笠[갓]을 비롯하여 程子冠․朱子冠․濂溪冠․東坡冠․沖正 冠․方冠등 10여 가지로 다양하였다. 이러한 모자는 선비들의 미적 취향으로 발전된 것이면서, 그것을 만드는 장인의 제작기술은 오늘날까지 전승되어 우리의 고유문화가 되었다. 조선의 방한모자 또한 중국의 것보다 종류가 풍부하였다. 중국의 방한모자는 耳套․耳衣, 태평모에서 개선된 風帽, 抹額에서 발전한 臥兎兒, 氈笠形이나 鉢笠形 으로 제작한 貂帽등 비교적 한정되었으나, 조선의 것은 耳掩을 비롯하여 볼끼 및 額掩[아얌]․護額․護項․風遮(項風遮․小風遮․披 肩․三山巾․陽轉巾) 등 다양하였다. 특히 조선 선비의 상징인 갓을 비롯한 관모들은 추위에 약하여 이것을 보완하기 위해 검은색에, 상투를 세울 수 있도록 위가 트인 독특한 형태로 발전하였다. 이러한 남자들의 방한모자가 점차 여자용과 어린이용으로 확산되면서도, 그 색과 형태는 여전히 유지되어 한국 방한모자의 특징이 되었다.

Scholars regarded being in full dress as an etiquette in Joseon period, showing a touch of style with white robe and a black Gat (a traditional Korean top hat). This study addressed the type of hats worn by scholars, and reviewed how the winter cap evolved characteristically in the late Joseon period, compared with that in Chinese Qing period. The outline of this study is as follows: First, there were wider variety of types and shapes in Joseon period than in Chinese Qing period. Only two types of hat, including Taepyeonggeon and Malaeg, were used in everyday cloths in Qing period, whereas ten types of hat, including Manggeon, Tanggeon, Gat, Jeongjagwan, Jujagwan, Hyeomgyegwan, Dongpagwan, Chungjeonggwan and Banggwan, were used in Joseon period. Although hats were named after the renowned Chinese scholars, the materials, shapes and skills were localized in Joseon. The style acquired new and unique tastes with different materials and skills. As hats evolved toward the scholar's aesthetic taste, the hat craftsmanship was commercially specialized in the style (Manggeonjang, Tanggeonjang, Yangtaejang and Ipjajang). Second, the winter caps were available in wider variety of types and shapes in Joseon period than in Chinese Qing period. A winter cap was limited to an ear cover (Itu and Ieui), Pungmo (a modified hat) and Chomo (a fur hat) in Qing period. On the other hand, the ear cover variously evolved into Bolki, Aegeom, Hoaeg, Hohang, Pungcha, Hangpungcha, Sopungcha, Pigyeon, Samcheongeon and Yangjeongeon in Joseon period. A winter cap was developed on the ground that Gat was vulnerable in cold weather during the winter. In Qing period, Taepyeonggeon and Malaeg were still used as a winter cap, though the materials were changed into fur. For the winter cap in Joseon period, not only the materials, but the types and shapes were completely different from those of an ordinary hat Gat. The winter caps were mainly worn by men till 18th century, and were in fashion among women and children since 19th century when the use of wig was banned to the end of Joseon Dynasty. The winter caps became more colorful and used more decorative objects. However, an opening on the top to let a topknot stand out was traditionally remained in a men's winter cap. Third, a variety of winter caps was developed in Joseon period, because Gat, a symbol of scholars, was vulnerable to the cold weather. The winter caps were mostly dark, and has an opening on the top to let a topknot stand out. As men tied a topknot, wore Mangeon around the head across the forehead, and then wore Tanggeon before wearing Gat in Joseon period, a winter cap was worn on top of Tanggeon. Gat was made of bamboo and horsehair to maintain a neat and proper shape, whereas a winter cap was made of fabric and wool to be foldable. Hats also had come into fashion among women and children without distinction of age or sex.

<국문초록>
Ⅰ. 머리말
Ⅱ. 조선과 청나라 모자의 종별
Ⅲ. 朝․淸방한모자의 비교
Ⅳ. 맺음말
Abstract

• 장경희(한서대학교 문화재보존학과) | Jang Kyung Hee (Hanseo University)