This study is aimed at developing low waist slacks pattern with high satisfaction measurements and beauty for the tween generation girls. For this study, the research method was as follows. By extracting and analyzing industrial and educational slacks pattern, beautiful and motion-suitable slacks pattern will be created. This study presents the ideal slacks pattern that has great fit to tween generation girls by comparing and analyzing the previous 2 slacks pattern studies and the real clothing test. The constructed pattern in the 1st step was modified and adjusted from the best industrial patterns' the location of waist line, waist line gradient, rear waist bottom crotch, hip bottom crotch, dart length, the ease of hip girth, the fitness of rear bottom crotch line which were not well-estimated. The 2nd step was appearance and movement test based on the 1st study. In The 3rd step, the 2nd step was chosen as the final slacks study pattern for its superior appearance & movement satisfaction comparing with other patterns.

The purposes of this study were to examine the slacks purchases and wearing satisfaction among old-aged women who were highly dissatisfied with their bodies and fit due to physical changes and to provide some basic data needed to develop slacks patterns to meet their needs. A survey was taken among 223 old-aged women aged 60～79 living in Seoul. Using the SPSS 12.0 program, the collected data were analyzed in descriptive statistics, t-test, and crosstab. The result were as follows: the most used place for them to shop slacks was a market(including the Dongdaemun and Namdaemun market), which was followed by a department store and a discount store in the order. As for their preference for slacks according to age, those who were in their sixties most preferred straight-line slacks, while those who were in their seventies semistraight-type slacks. As for fit for each body part according to age, there were significant differences only in crotch length. Those who were in their seventies were more dissatisfied with crotch length than those who were in their sixties, feeling that crotch length was short. As for their experiences of repair after purchasing a pair of slacks, 82.5% said they had such an experience. Most of the repairs with length, waist and slacks width involved in size reduction.

For this study, 18 kinds of cut and sew or seamless knitted test garment were made. Samples differed from each other by skirt angles(90°, 180°), gauges(7G, 12G, 15G), and grain directions(bias direction, wale direction, and radial direction). After measuring the mechanical properties of various gauges on the seamless knitting machine, I compared shape of the knitted flare skirt through subjective evaluation on appearances. The data analysis methods used in this study were descriptive statistics, one-way ANOVA, Duncan-test, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The subjective evaluation on appearances of knitted flare skirts showed the following: In case of 90° skirt, the seamless skirt showed a much higher score in every gauge expect that of the cut and sew 12G, and silhouette of 15G wale direction. In case of the 180° skirt, the seamless type showed a much higher score in every item over the cut and sew expect the silhouette part of 7G wale direction.

This study is focused on the elucidation of efficient and correct marking methods by comparing and analyzing marker efficiency depending on the marking job condition such as interval of checking-pattern and marker orientation using woman's Jacket and Slacks. Research Method intended to compare the marking efficiency of Jacket and Slacks, check-less and check- patterned materials with the intervals of 1.5×1.5cm and 5×5cm were selected. First, in the comparison of marking efficiency depending on check-pattern interval, regardless of the direction of marker position, single-item makers and set-item makers, the efficiency of check-less materials was higher than those of check-patterned materials and increasing the intervals decreased marking efficiency and vice versa. Marking efficiency of Slacks was less influenced than marking efficiency of Jacket by check-pattern interval. Second, in the comparison of marking efficiency depending on the direction of marker position, regardless of check-pattern interval and number of maker pieces, the efficiency of nap-up-and-down position was higher than those of nap-one-way position. Third, the marking efficiency of single-item was more effective than one of set-item in all working condition except nap-one-way position in checkless materials.

The knitting method of the sleeves for improving movement adaptability were studied in this paper. The purpose of this study is proposing a knitting method that is suitable for the bodies of women in their 20's and can enhance wearing satisfaction. To see the effect of the bind-off length at the axilla, a movement adaptability test was undertaken for 4 samples that have bind-off at bodices. In addition to that, the analysis of their sliding distance with respect to the human motions were executed. The results of this study were listed below. Its result was that the samples with small bind-off lengths represent better wearing satisfaction than the samples which have large bind-off lengths. The comparison of the sliding distances at the hem, waist and sleeves with respect to the tester's motions also shows that the sample having small bind-off makes better result than the sample with large bind-off. It was observed that the optimal length of bind-off was 2cm for the improvement of the sleeve functionality.

This study is to classify the shape of the body by means of the drop value of the middle-age women. Drop value is based on the circumstances of the body deciding the dimentions of the clothes. Therefore, the study based on the drop value seems to decided the measurement of the clothes in making mass production of ready made clothes. In order to put measure items on this study of the value on 'The fifth survey of body measure of Korean', select 785 people in middle-aged women aged from 40 to 59. And considering the characteristic of upper-drop and lower-drop, and swelling belly by accumulated fat, selected five items(Bust Circumstance - Waist Circumstance, Hip Circumstance - Waist Circumstance, Hip Circumstance - Bust Circumstance, Waist Circumstance(Omphalion) - Waist Circumstance, Hip Circumstance - Waist Circumstance(Omphalion)). The result of the study is summarized as follows. Type 1, M type of the body showed the distribution of 32.5% and belonged to low body development style. The line of human body is the nearest of the four bodies in middle-age woman out of whole shapes of 4 types and the line of human body is close to middle-age woman. Type 2, X type of the body showed the distribution of 40.8% and the line of human body remarkably showed. Type 3, H type of the body showed the distribution of 12.4% and the line of human body appears least. This group was larger than any other group in having more fat in the belly above the circumstance of the hip than other groups. Type 4, Y type of the body showed the distribution of 14.4%. This type was upper half of body development style, waist was slender, and there was seldom the bend around the circumstance of belly and hip.

The purpose of this study is proposing a knitting method that is suitable for the bodies of women in their 20's and can enhance aesthetic aspect and wearing satisfaction. For this study, four kinds of seamless knit one-pieces were implemented by different knitting method of waist dart each other. The inspection of the exterior and the sensory test of movement adaptability were included in this study. The results of this study were listed below. Exterior evaluation of the four samples results that the sample with outside narrowing and widening get low grade. Thus, we can see that the method having only outside narrowing and widening for waist shaping can cause problems. In addition to that, the sample with inside narrowing and widening get highest grade for almost all test items. The dressing evaluation results that the knitting method of waist dart affect only on the exterior but not on the movement adaptability of the seamless knit one-piece.

This study is focused on the elucidation of efficient and correct marking methods by comparing and analyzing marker efficiency depending on the marking job condition such as interval of checking-pattern, width of materials, and marker orientation using man's shirts. To compare the marking efficiency of shirts, plain and check-patterned materials with the intervals of 1.5×1.5cm, 3×3cm, and 5×5cm were selected. First, in the comparison of marking efficiency depending on materials width, the highest efficiency was obtained with nap-either-way position of 150cm, plain materials and lowest efficiency with nap-one-way position of 150cm, 5×5cm check-pattern materials. Regardless of the direction of marker position, the marking efficiency of 150cm width was higher than 110cm width in the plain, 1.5×1.5cm and 3×3cm check-pattern interval, but the marking efficiency of 110cm width was higher than 150cm width in the 5×5cm check-pattern interval. Second, in the comparison of marking efficiency depending on the direction of marker position, regardless of check-pattern interval and material width, the highest efficiency was obtained with nap-either-way position. And nap-up-and-down and nap-one-way follows next. Third, in the comparison of marking efficiency depending on check-pattern interval, the efficiency of plain materials was higher than those of check-patterned materials. And increasing the intervals decreased marking efficiency and vice versa. So the lowest efficiency was obtained with 5×5 check patterned materials.

Withsuffering financial crisis in 1997, Korea's fashion market has grown in the direction that satisfies the reasonable price and diverse consumer's sensitivity and needs. The aim of this study is to examine whether the cutting portion in the waist line is surely necessary for designing the jacket pattern in men's wear, by closely examining the effects of the cutting portion in the waist line on the external appearance and functionality given designing the jacket pattern in men's wear for the standard body type in 20s. The results of the study are as follows. As a result of evaluating the external appearance, when having evaluated by dividing into 14 items such as the whole surface, the side, and the back side, the experimental clothing, which wasn't cut the waist line, obtained the highest mark in 13 items and, the significant difference was indicated in 10 items except 4 items. As a result of evaluating performance, the experimental clothing, which wasn't cut the waist line, obtained the highest mark in 13 items among 25 items in the total. Next, the cutting portion in the waist line obtained the highest mark in 10 items for the experimental clothing with opening in 1.0cm. The next was indicated to be in order of the experimental clothing with 1.5cm and the experimental clothing with 0.5cm. Given seeing the above result, the cutting portion in the waist line given designing the jacket pattern for the standard body type in 20s could be known that the experimental clothing with the most excellent mark in the evaluation of performance was all the experimental clothing with 0.0cm whose waist line wasn't cut.

This study presented a making method of jeans pattern with high fitness after deriving the appropriate shrinkage rate by material and washing process. For this purpose of this study, 6 jeans have been tested after washing finishing and we turned out appropriate shrinkage rate by evaluating the exterior of jeans and usage satisfaction. Then, a making method of jeans pattern was presented after applying the optimized shrinkage rate. According to the result of the exterior evaluation of test jeans, all 6 jeans were rated high with scores close to 3.5. Following the evaluation of satisfaction of usage by physical movement, the highest ranking was in the order of walking with normal steps, back bending 90°, chair sitting, climbing stairs, and squatting. The shrinkage rate by physical area showed the highest score in the order of pants length, waist circumference, thigh circumference, knee circumference, hem circumference, hips circumference. In addition, the shrinkage rate was higher in warp direction than weft direction after washing finishing. As for the result of addition and reduction of pattern measurements by parts of jeans, waist circumference was 2.6～5.2cm, hips circumference was 1.3～4.2cm, thigh circumference was 0.8～ 3.1cm and knee circumference was 0.7～2.5cm. Also, hem circumference was 0.5～1.8cm and pants length was 4.0～6.2cm. That is, this results showed a wide range of addition and reduction according to material and washing finishing.

The purpose of this study is to analyse the effects of knit samples' mechanical properties on changes of skirt length of knit flared skirt, and to compare it to the knitting method of a seamless knitted flare skirt. So, I compared the appearance and 3-dimensional shape of a seamless knitted flare skirt with those of a fully cut knit flared skirt. For this study, 18 kinds of cut and sew or seamless knitted test garment were made. The data analysis methods used in this study were descriptive statistics, one-way ANOVA, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The results are as follows: The result of the evaluation of knit samples' mechanical properties by the KES-FB system showed that elongation decreased as gauge increased and course direction was greatest among grain directions. The length change after wearing the knitted flare skirts appeared wholly equal to the seamless knitted, compared with the cut and sew. The change was biggest at 180°, 7G of the cut and sew. In grain direction, bias cut showed more than 1.2cm of length change. As the weight and thickness increased, the length changes become larger. The regression analysis indicated that the greatest contributive variables on the length changes were elongation, weight, and thickness.

The purpose of this study was specifically focused on the lower garment sizing system of adolescent apparel, especially on trousers for adolescent boys. Research Method was performed by using the physical measurements of adolescent boys (14～19 years old, n=1,344) based on the ‘he fifth Korean national physical standard reports’ surveyed by SIZEKOREA. The basic materials for this study are obtained from the observations of physical characteristics and classification of physical figures based on the characteristics from waist down. The results from this study are as follows. 1) according to the analyses of physical changes, most items including height, circumference, length, breadth and depth were increased at the age of 14～18 and gradually reduced at the age of 19. 2) The factors which compose the lower body resulted were appeared that the first factor was vertical factor, the second factor was horizontal factor, the third factor was hip length, and the last factor was buttlock-popliteal length. 3) Formalization of physical figures for adolescent boy's lower body analyzed from factors grouped three types. 4) The basic parts that we used to propose the apparel sizing system distinguished by physical figures were Waist Circumference (Omphalion) (every 3cm regular gap) and Hip Circumference (irregular gap). Physical figures assigned 5 to Type T, and 4 to type M. The reference measurement items were divided into 7 items which are correlated with apparel manufacture.