본 연구는 최근의 연안역 개발 사업 이전에 선행되어야 하는 물리학적 변화요인들( 파랑변형과 주변해역의 해양 환경적 변화 요인 등)에 대한 연구에 그 목적이 있다. 이러한 관점에서 울산 신항과 같은 연안역에서의 DELFT-3D: WAVE(SWAN)을 이용하여 대상 해역의 파랑특성을 파악했다, 파랑특성 파악을 위해서 다방향 불규칙파의 굴절 및 천수변형을 동시에 풀 수 있는 에너지 평형 방정식을 사용한 수치모델인 SWAN 모델에 대해 연구하였다. 이러한 과정을 통해서 울산 신항 주변 해역의 불규칙 파랑특성을 파악했다. 파랑특성 파악의 가상 좋은 방법은 현장 파고계를 설치하여 장기간에 걸쳐 파랑을 직접 관찰하는 것이다. 그러나 광범위한 지역에 대한 파랑특성 파악에는 어려움이 있어서 이에 대한 대안으로 수치모텔인 DELFT-3D; WAVE를 이용해서 불규칙 파랑특성을 파악했다.

Gamcheon Bay has complicated and unique flow pattern which is affected by topography characteristics of a semi-closed bay and warm water discharge from the power plant located at the bay. It is very important to consider warm water discharge with tidal period and wind effects, which are mainly acting on the surface flow patterns in Gamcheon Bay. The results of observation show as follows; i) Because Gamcheon bay has much elongated shape to the north-south direction and narrow entrance with two separated breakwaters, the flow is very weak inside the bay. ii) The main flow path is at the west side of the bay. The direction of flood current is northward along the west side of the bay and the direction of ebb current is southward along the west side of the bay. The southward direction of warm water discharge has curved to the west side of the bay. iii)At the period of flood current for neap tide, the flow direction is southward in the bay, which is thought by the effects of warm water discharge. But at the bottom layer, the effects of tidal current reached to the middle of the bay, and showed features like eddy. iv) The wind effect is very strong, especially, prominent in the west and east side of the bay.

Copeland’s(1985) hyperbolic mild-slope equation including diffraction refraction and reflection in the wave field is used as a governing equation in this study. The result of Maruyama & Kajima(1985) is used to calculate wave direction and that of Watanabe & Maruyama(1986) is used as a energy dissipation formula. Numerical solutions are obtained by the Leap-Frog scheme and compared with Watanabe & Maruyama’s (1984) hydraulic experimental results and numerical simulation results for the detached breakwater. This wave model is applied to a detached breakwater and compared with Watanabe and Maruyama’s (1984) hydraulic model results to check the characteristics of reflected wave field around a detached breakwater. The distribution of wave height and we phase in front of a detached breakwater is more accurate than the Watanabe and Maruyama’s numerical results. The results from our wave model show good agreements with the others and also show nonlinear effects around the detached breakwater. This model is applied to the Gamcheon harbor of pusan. the field observations were carried out at Pusan harbor wave station in 1986-1995 and the results were accepted as a design wave condition in this study. The wave height and wave period was measured by Dong-A university at one station in the Gamcheon harbor in 1996-1997 and used as a calibration criterion. The measured data were used as input data for the numerical simulation and also compared with simulated results. The numerical simulation shows a fairly good results which considering the effect of topographic characteristics and effect of narrow entrance due to two separated breakwaters in Gamcheon harbor. The wave distribution characteristics inside Gamcheon harbor is quite different with the offshore wave direction and wave period.

The propagation of water waves over irregular bottom bathymetry and around islands involves many process-shoaling, refraction, energy dissipation and diffraction. Numerical model in this study is developed with the mild slope equation to investigate wave transformation in water of varying depth and combined waves and a current. The method used is splitting method and minimax approximation. The numerical method used in this study is Crank-Nicolson scheme in the FDM. This model is applied to Vincent shoal and compared with laboratory experimental data. The results agreed well with laboratory data. Current effect is considered in this study. This model can be used for the estimation of rip current in the slowly varying topography.

A Wave-induced current model is developed in our study and this model is composed with wave transform model and current model. Two types of wave model are used in our study one is Copeland(1985) type which is applied in the offshore region and the other is Watanabe and Maruyama(1984) type which is applied in the surf zone. The depth-integrated and time-averaged governing equation of an unsteady nonlinear form is used in the wave induced current model. Lateral mixing radiation stresses surface and bottom stresses are considered in our current model. Copeland’s(1976) is used as a surface friction formula. Numerical solutions are obtained by Leendertse scheme and compared with Noda’s(1974) experimental results for the uniform slope coastal region test and Nishimura & Naruyama’s (1985) experimental results and numerical simulation results for the detached breakwater. The results from our wave model and wave model and wave-induced current model show good agreements with the others and also show nonlinear effects around the detached breakwater. The model in this study can be applied in the surf zone considering the friction stresses.