The interlacing technique has a long history of use as a means of creative expression and persists in modern society to satisfy the individual pursuit of pastimes. This method has the developmental potential to create new trends in the future. Interlacing techniques (e.g., basketry, plaiting, braiding, and knotting) are closely related to plastic arts fields, architecture, art, and industrial design where the various interlacing practices are applied. This research uses case analysis to study the types of expression found in the formative art field wherein the interlacing technique is applied. Results reveal several expressions, including optical illusion visual type, relief surface type, porous perspective type, and object borrowing type, all of which appeared in fashion bags. The aesthetic formativeness, which appeared in the fashion bags that applied interlacing techniques, was then classified according to geometric formative beauty in a process based on rules and order. Nature-friendly formative beauty reflecting handicraft locality and omnidirectional formative beauty by disordered deconstruction and heterogeneous combination were determined. The use of interlacing techniques that show creative, unique combinations and variations is expected to inspire the development and application of bag design that suits individual and original modern fashion trends. One limitation of this thesis is that it only studied cases appearing in modern fashion bags.

The objective of this study was to explore the symbolism associated with phoenix patterns in China and the temporal aesthetic characteristics of these patterns found in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes. The study involved collecting examples of clothing designs featuring phoenix patterns from China Fashion Week and the Vogue website, spanning from spring and summer of 2016 to fall and winter of 2022. After collecting and organizing these examples, representative cases were selected for analysis. The objective was to identify effective techniques for incorporating phoenix patterns within the context of Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes and provided insights for future clothing design and textile pattern design research. Phoenix patterns boasted a lengthy history and were laden with symbolic meaning. Early renditions of phoenix patterns found at Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang were relatively simplistic in design, mainly employing elements like rhythm, coordination, balance and symmetry to convey a sense of nature and gravity. Over time, these patterns evolved under the influence of the prevailing cultural backdrop, employing repeated emphasis to portray notions of abundance and tenacity. Furthermore, regarding the use of phoenix patterns in clothing, there were four prevalent expression techniques: embroidery, beading, printing, and knitting. Traditional techniques like embroidery and beadwork often prioritized aesthetic features like coordination, emphasis, and symmetry, thereby showcasing the opulent characteristics of phoenix patterns. On the other hand, printing and knitting techniques used a single phoenix pattern or a modified version to simplify designs by emphasizing or repeating aesthetic characteristics while adhering to a modern artistic approach.

The pataphysics implemented by digital technology differs from the form of objects in the real world and is used throughout the cultural industry. This study aims to analyze the expression method of pataphysics as applied to modern fashion and derive its impact on the fashion industry. The research analyzes fashion images, shows, films, displays, and e-commerce, since 2016, when pataphysics began to be used in the fashion domain. Pataphysics, created by Alfred Zaire, appeared as an overlapping phenomenon that reflects physical phenomena in the virtual world. The expression method of pataphysics applied to modern fashion was divided into an augmented reality method based on immersion and interaction, a virtual platform-oriented metaverse, and a virtual model expressing a processed self. The influence of pataphysics applied to modern fashion is as follows. In the field of design, pataphysics affects the development of contemplative designs for innovation and creativity. Second, digital technology can expand the role of fashion at the intersection of art and fashion that takes a novel perspective through pataphysics. Third, e-commerce positively affects efficient production and consumption through virtual and economic models. In conclusion, this study’s findings are expected to play a positive role in promoting creativity and innovation by introducing new perspectives and ideas into modern fashion through pataphysics.

This study examines how the concept of gender fluidity—viewing gender identity as a fluid and wide spectrum—is represented in modern knit fashion collections. The period spring/summer 2017–fall/winter 2021, when gender-related fashion keywords started attracting attention, was limited to the last five years, and the results of a case analysis focused on a total of 357 knit fashion photos are as follows. First, the androgynous compromise through the mixing of heterogeneous elements appears as a mix-and-match style due to the patchwork of heterogeneous materials and forms that borrow or share masculinity and femininity. Second, it was confirmed that the dismantling exaggeration caused by the destruction of the size and form of clothes was an avant-garde image that exaggerated the size or length of clothes or destroyed ideas and forms. Third, the exposed sensuality caused by the deformation of the fluid knitting technique was shown in the form of proudly expressing sexuality by exposing the body either using the cut-out technique or through the loose texture of the knit. Knit fashion can highlight decorative effects using handcrafted techniques and express a detailed or coarse sense of organization depending on the density. In addition, since it is possible to create a complex image by juxtaposing and mixing various knit structures, it was confirmed that it is a suitable material for expressing gender fluidity flowing between men and women in fashion.

Simulacre means a copy of the original, an ostensible representation of someone or something. This study closely looks at the 2017 <VOGUE like a painting exhibition> hosted by the fashion magazine Vogue. The purpose of this study is to use both theoretical and empirical analysis to analyze the simulacre developed in fashion photographs inspired by famous paintings in the exhibition booklet. The booklet is divided into four sections: portrait, rococo, landscape painting, from avant-garde to pop art. It also contains 55 pieces comparing the original masterpieces to the works of 26 photographers inspired by them. The fashion photographs were analyzed using Jean Baudrillard’s four stages of simulacre transformation: represent, denature, dissimulate, and replace image change theory. The degree of simulacre expression was indicated three times on a four-point Likert scale by five fashion majors, and the results were integrated and analyzed. As a result, in fashion photography, simulacre— due to the development of photography technology and the photographer’s artistry— appeared in various ways; image denature was most preferred, followed by dissimulate, represent, and replace. This study shows that image analysis of fashion photographs and applying the perspective of simulacre when creating artworks can be a way to obtain rich qualitative data in the future.

The fashion industry analyzes the value of its essence with ecological design and is expressed as an innovative sculpture using digital technology. Accordingly, this study explores ecological images and digital technologies, categorizes types and derives their meanings through analysis of ecological images shown in modern digital fashion. A literature survey was conducted on ecological images and digital technology as a theoretical background. To analyze the expression type and internal meanings of ecological images, designs with ecological formability were selected and analyzed from related journals, books, and internet sites. The finding are as follows: The expression type was first identified as organic curved garment silhouettes of a non-material liquid with digital retouching. Second, ecological fashion design includes structural shape that applies the silhouette of an organism and patterning of the ecosystem. Third, ecosystems consist of interactions between components of an ecosystem that appear in the interactive type. Accordingly, the internal meanings of ecological images in modern digital fashion are: first, digital fashion can encircle the inherent concepts of nature as organic collections of individuals; second, digital ecological images emphasize a sense of community with coexistence and harmony, playing a complementary role; and finally, the images express perceptual features by providing people with transcendent experiences. This study is significant as it analyzes new formative features based on ecological systems in the digital fashion environment, establishes an aesthetic system through internal meanings, and enhances awareness of human-natural relationships.

The purpose of this study is to contribute to the role of lines in creative design development by analyzing the expression types and aesthetic characteristics of modern fashion using geometric formativeness of symmography. A literature study was conducted of works since 2009 to examine the general consideration of lines together with analysis of the concept and characteristics of symmography in the formative arts field, and to analyze the expression types and aesthetic characteristics of modern fashion design using the formativeness of symmography. The infinite sense of formativeness and original expression of symmography are used in formative arts such as space design, installation art, and industrial design. Expression types of modern fashion design using geometric formativeness of symmography can be classified into the following three types: two-dimensional graphic pattern, relief surface, and threedimensional spatial. First, the two-dimensional graphic pattern type forms an optical pattern, providing individuality and visual interest to the textile design. Second, the relief surface type expresses the plane in various ways, so that the thickness changes according to how lines overlap. Third, the three-dimensional spatial type expands the boundaries of clothing and creates a fantastic spatial beauty. Next, the aesthetic formativeness of fashion design using symmography can be classified into repetitive rhythmicity, geometric self-similarity, and optical spatiality. Symmography enables a myriad of geometric patterns to be developed depending on material, color, and the designer’s imagination, and helps inspire a variety of designs in fashion that sculpt a three-dimensional human body.

The study aims to define the Korean Wave as global attention to Korea’s unique culture and consider the specificity of traditional Korean fashion images in Korean Wave content. The research method of this study is a case study through literature research. In order to collect Korean Wave content on YouTube, 24 channels with the highest number of views were selected from among content uploaded from 2018 to the present through keyword search, and up to two channels with high views showing traditional Korean fashion images. As a result of selecting the analysis target, 41 Korean Wave videos and 368 costumes were selected and analyzed based on fashion style elements, including item, color, detail, motif, styling, silhouette, and accessory. As a result of the study, music, broadcast, fashion, and other content were found in the Korean Wave content fields in which Korean fashion style appeared, and the characteristics of each field were derived. Music content was characterized by fashion style excluding stereotypes about traditional Korean costume, broadcast and fashion content was characterized by fashion style inherited from traditional costume, and other content was characterized by symbolic fashion style of traditional culture. This study is meaningful in revealing the formative characteristics of traditional Korean design elements recently shared online through the study of Korean traditional fashion images in Korean Wave content.

The purpose of this study is to expand satirical expressions that appear in a wide range of arts into fashion and to analyse and present satirical expressions that appear in contemporary fashion through the collections of Thom Browne. Theoretical examination of satirical concepts were made of domestic and foreign academic theses, dissertations, precious studies, and publications related to satire. Analysis was conducted on cases in which satirical expressions were applied in literature, painting, sculpture, and fashion. Based on these studies, analysis was conducted on satirical expressions appearing in Thom Browne’s work. Material was gathered from collection reviews, interview articles, professional books, and internet photo material from professional fashion magazines encompassing 16 years of Thom Browne’s collections officially recorded in the international fashion magazine ‘Vogue’, ranging from the 2006 S/S collection to the 2021 S/S collection. From this, a total of 1,753 photos were collected as data. Characteristics of satirical expression were analyzed and the results were as follows. A fluid reconstruction of ‘gender fluid’, dual meanings of metaphorical allegories, playful expressions of visual wit, constructions made of overlapped disassembled material, and borrowing of morphological distortion were all identified. Accordingly, satirical approaches as social aspects and objects in the flow of modern thought appear as positive forms based in humor that hope to be improved. This study anticipate the concept of satire will expand into a positive form as a new direction of fashion.

This study aims to develop a hanbok design method in response to recent changes in consumption trends that emphasize new aesthetic and cultural values, which contrast with the existing cultural order and repetitive normative styles in fashion designing. With this in mind, our study explores the main features of deconstruction fashion design as a theoretical guide for developing a methodology for deconstruction hanbok design, on the basis of which new, experimental and creative hanbok design works can be produced. To do this, we first investigate current trends in hanbok design and changing concepts of Korean fashion design through literature review of previous studies. Secondly, we explore deconstructionism and analyze its features to lay down the foundation for a post-modern approach in hanbok design. As the result of analysis, the main features of deconstruction fashion design are summarized as the following: 1) non-finishing, 2) decomposing and recomposing, 3) recycling, 4) transparent, 5) grunge, 6) flattening, and 7) exaggeration. Based on the identified core features of deconstruction fashion design, we develop a creative method of hanbok design in the context of modern Korean fashion design. Finally, we show five design outputs via a 3D digital fashion design process using the CLO3D software program.

This study is aimed at applying the philosophical concept of “différance” to contemporary men’s fashion design, which could effectively show the shift in thinking. For the study method, the author examined the theoretical background of deconstruction and prepared the standard of analysis by organizing the concept of “différance,” which exists at the center of philosophy. This study selected the three most popular brands: Maison Margiela, Comme des Garcons, and Yohji Yamamoto. The results are as follows. First, there is expression of perpetual reservation emphasizing time. This includes texture, patchworks, hems with ladder, and exposure of seam that expresses the trace of time flow and delayed delivery of immediate meaning, and the expression creates delay between major and minor and leads to consistent role exchange. Second, the trace of blank that emphasizes the space gives a visual sense of weight on spares with the intentionally granted space, as well as the space that is the trace of trace and creates a sense of depth through the direction of empty space. Third, the space created in the process of wearing cloth is visualized, the structure of clothing is deconstructed, and the movement from the process recomposes the shape of space and expands the definition that enables expansion of time and space. Fourth, the undetermined relationship expresses the border of time and space visually and deconstructs time and space. The approaches are mostly constructive, demonstrating an avant-garde form of clothes-wearing to show the non-form or imbalance condition.

The purpose of this study was to review and establish the two concepts of art film and artistic expression in Prada fashion films, through a literature review of domestic and international case studies, as a form of luxury branded content, Prada fashion films are considered to artistic film genre. For the study, aesthetic expression in art films as discussed in the previous research was divided into four types. The study method was to review fashion / art films from the founding of YouTube, specially, works that used digital images from Thunder Perfect Mind, which was introduced in Prada in 2005, to Nylon Farm in 2018, stylistic features were searched by film. In addition, for this study, fashion film was analyzed based on the typology of art films. The following conclusions regarding artistic expression were drawn from this study : First, the Prada fashion films represent a transition to advanced art through a conceptual approach. Second, the causal relationships personality psychology can be cited through the disturbed and fragmented narrative lines. Third, the films help people identity Prada’s aesthetics by humanizing the luxury brand. Fourth, the films are a feature of serialization.

The purpose of this study is to serve as a reference for creative fashion design by analyzing the types and aesthetic characteristics of trompe l’oeil in contemporary men’s fashion. This research is an empirical study that utilizes both qualitative and quantitative methods to analyze fashion design cases and research articles such as academic papers and professional books. The study covers four major men’s collections: Paris, Milan, New York, and London. The period being analyzed is from 2005 Spring/Summer, which is widely regarded as a turning point at which men’s collections began rapidly, to 2019 Spring/Summer. The study analyzes 471 photos from domestic and international websites, with the following results. Types of trompe l’oeil in contemporary male fashion are classified into four types: (1) the deconstruction of clothing forms or creation methods, (2) optical illusions that create the effect of multiple layers of clothing on a single article of clothing and the reproduction of apparel details and clothing using 2D printing or embroideries, (3) realistic patterns on garments to create a camouflage effect, and (4) articles of clothing containing body images such as the chest, trunk, or internal human anatomy. These aesthetic characteristics in men’s fashion design using types of trompe l’oeil are playful, deconstructive, and decorative features based on hyper-reality. This study aims to acknowledge trompe l’oeil as being widely used in contemporary men’s fashion as a type of formative art, playing a crucial role in creative fashion design.

The purpose of this study is to investigate the design methods and characteristics of papercraft fashion from 2001 to 2015. The study has been conducted through theoretical research and case study. Overall, types of papercraft expressions are classified into the following four categories: narrative papercraft fashion, organic papercraft fashion, variable papercraft fashion, and recycling papercraft fashion. The characteristics and aspects of each type of papercraft is described below. First, narrative papercraft fashion expresses as factual description of the natural environment. These works convey fantastic image by showing fairy tale animals or plants using paper folding or cutting. Second, organic papercraft fashion creates a futuristic shape by expressing organic parts in nature. Also, it often depicts future-oriented images by repeatedly representing organic shapes using uniform patterns in nature. Third, variable papercraft fashion expresses a variety of changing shapes through a flexible design based on the style of wearing. This variation may be accomplished through changeable dress connected to human gestures. Variable papercraft represents playfulness, which conveys enjoyment to the wearer and the audience. Fourth, recycling papercraft fashion uses paper materials of the past, and recreates them into artworks through handicraft techniques. Recycling papercraft conveys high value added fashion by dissolving the material into pulp.

This study investigated the preference of sensibility expression factors regarding fashion materials, such as the color, pattern and texture of fabric. Moreover, this study analyzed the relationship between the preference of sensibility expression factors and the preference of fashion images by identifying the preference of fashion images. The survey subjects were 312 women ranging in age from 20 to 40 years old. This study utilized a questionnaire as a measurement tool. First, this study performed a factorial analysis on the preference of sensibility expression factors of fashion materials. In regards to color preference, this study considered color depth such as light tone color, moderate tone color, dark tone color and vivid tone color. In regards to pattern preference, this study examined: geometric pattern, floral pattern, animal skins pattern, check pattern and symbolical pattern. In regard to preference of the texture, this study assessed: roughness, luster, flatness and lightness. Second, this study performed a factorial analysis on the preference of fashion images. This study examined five factors: dignity, uniqueness, femininity, activity and simplicity. Third, this study analyzed the effects of the preference of sensibility expression factors of fashion materials on the preference of fashion images. As a result, the color preference was related to the image preference associated with dignity, femininity and simplicity, whereas the pattern preference was related to the images of uniqueness, femininity, activity and simplicity. Moreover, the preference of texture image was related to the images of dignity, uniqueness, femininity and activity.

The structural aesthetics of architecture are becoming an inspirational source for many fashion designers and have been reborn in structural fashion. This study planned to analyze the method of expression of structural aesthetics expressed in modern structural fashion design and the construction method to maximize such an effect on the basis of the construction characteristic of Santiago Calatrava as the representative architect of the structural aesthetic. According to the study, the structural aesthetics expressed in modern structural fashion design are as follows: 1) The symbolical formative aesthetic expressed by symbolical inference and analyzation; 2) the dynamic beauty of physic expressed by visual emphasis and dynamics; and 3) the asymmetric beauty of symmetry expressed by metastasis toward the boundary between balance and imbalance. In addition, to maximize structural aesthetics, we used repetition and a progressive technique based on rhythm, asymmetry, and incision-based variances, such as balance, polygon flux, and inference, and analyzation-based distortion as the structuring principle. The following expression methods for maximizing structural aesthetics were found: 1) symbolical and structural exaggeration of appearance; 2) detail technique expansion and material property diversification; and 3) the three-dimensional transformation of structure and shell expression. Structural fashion design was found to have maximized structural aesthetics by using such expression methods to secure artistic esthetics, destroy existing shapes and patterns, and create unique shapes.

Technological change leads to a value shift in human society. Various cultural experiences through the digital paradigm influence the expression of fashion. This article considers fashion film as a new form for presenting fashion and explores the distinctiveness of expression in digital fashion film. For the methodology, a literature review was conducted to examine the concepts and features of digital fashion film and metareality. Empirical research was also performed by drawing from Nick Knight’s digital films, “Sans Couture”, “#asif”, and “The Elegant Universe” and by specifically analyzing the classification of the themes, visuals, and auditory expression. The results are as follows. The proliferation of fashion film has accelerated in the internet environment. New media in the digital era allows images to become more realistic and variable through immaterial conversion. Metareality is the notion of a reality beyond existence. A metarealistic image maintains the metaphysical nature of an object and transcends empirical appearance. It possesses immaterial, transboundary, and multidimensional features, and the image is realized by digital technology. The expression analysis identifies the metareality expressed in contemporary fashion film appearing as atypical forms, irrational combinations, and the playfulness of motion. It shows a positive attitude, transcending the immaterial limit of reality toward fashion. This study indicates how fashion as products challenges the metaphysical transformation in the digital era. The exploration of metareality in digital fashion film promotes a wider perspective and understanding of the concept of fashion.

This paper examines advertising images of fashion brands in vertical social network site (SNS) from the viewpoints of message strategies. Vertical social network sites are types of social curation systems applied to social networking, where information is selected, organized, and maintained. Fashion brands communicate with consumers by presenting images on vertical SNSs, anticipating improvements in brand image, popularity, and loyalty. Those images portray content for particular brands and seasonal concepts, thus creating paths for product sales information. Marketing via SNSs corresponds to relationship marketing, which refers to long-term interrelationship and value augmentation between the company and consumer, and viral advertising, which relies on word of mouth distribution via social network platforms. Taylor’s six-segment message strategy wheel, often used for analyzing viral ads, was applied to conduct a content analysis of the images. A total of 2,656 images of fashion brands advertised on Instagram were selected and analyzed. Results indicated that brand values were somewhat related to the number of followers. Follower rankings and comment rankings were also correlated. In general, fashion brands projected sensory messages most often. Acute need and rational messages were less common than other messages. Sports brands and luxury brands presented sensory messages, whereas fast fashion brands projected routine images most often. Fashion brands promoted on vertical SNSs should portray advertising images that combine message strategies.

This study attempted to figure out the usage of the modular system in other fields through literature review and empirical study, analyze its structural method in fashion. After analyzing architecture & product-related books, the Internet data and previous studies, the modular system's five structural methods were obtained. Then, 991 photos of women's clothes from 2003 to 2014 were collected through the fashion websites in Korea and abroad. The results can be summarized as follows: First, the following five structures were derived: assembling structure, overlapping structure, arrangement structure, inserting structure and folding structure. Second, according to analysis on the structural method of the modular system in modern fashion, overlapping structure (34%) was the most common. Third, in fashion, the use of fastener for installation and removal is important for assembling structure. In terms of overlapping structure, 3D volume by vertical accumulation was commonly observed. Arrangement structure revealed a horizontal and flat shape through simple arrangement. In inserting structure, on the contrary, non-standardized modules were used as a part of clothes or decorative elements. In folding structure, origami technique for reduction and expansion was used.

Entering the twentieth century, corsets began to disappear with the tendency of concentrating on slim bodies and youth. As corsets proceeded to be discarded, they began to be internalized as a means of controlling the body; 'muscular corset' takes hold. However, the internalized corset increasingly appears to be externalized again in contemporary fashion. This study investigates how natural body is reconstructed as socio-cultural image drawing on the relationship between the signifier and signified of corset. As for the research methodology this study conducts literature survey to investigate the internalization of corset. This study proceeds to examine the subjects of fashion collections from 1980 to 2010 and samples the outfits which represent the externalization of corset through case analysis. Through the discussion of the study, the relationship of signifier and signified in the externalization of corset is argued as follows: first, by maintaining signifier and signified of the traditional corset as underwear, aggressive eroticism of corset has been observed, second, by perceiving corset as the agency of the body, fetishism of corset dissociates the function of sexual object from corset while distorting the relationship of signifier and signified, third, through embodying the notion of muscular corset literally, the ironical representation of corset as a torturing device of female body deconstructs the traditional relation of signifier and signified of corset.