Women in their 50s undergo significant changes to their bodies, including weight gain and rapid increases in body mass index (BMI) due to menopause. This study aimed to develop a basic bodice pattern suitable for women with a “square” body type, which is the most common type among Korean women in their 50s. We used a body shape avatar representative of square-body-type women in their 50s, provided by 6th Size Korea (KATS, 2010) as the model. This avatar was loaded into a virtual fitting program to evaluate the fit of the research pattern. The results of the study were as follows. Using the 3D virtual fitting program, the ideal bodice pattern was found to be close-fitting, based on an analysis of the body surface of women in their 50s with a square body type. This population’s characteristic body features included a rounded back, forward-protruding waist, forward-tilted neck, and shoulder tips angled toward the center-front. Because of the protruding abdomen, the bodice’s waist dart value was lower than average. The base bodice design for this body type was adapted from the research pattern of Jun and Jang (2024). Adjustments for this study included adding 0.5 cm to the center-back length and designing the profile line from the back neckline to the armpit wall. Further, the front bodice waist dart was omitted to accommodate the protruding abdomen. After two rounds of revisions, evaluations of the virtual fitting significantly improved, with scores increasing from 2.38 out of 5 to 4.82 out of 5.

This study aimed to develop a basic bodice suitable for the body shape of women in their 50s by using the CLO 3D virtual clothing program to create an avatar with the standard body presented in KATS (2022). A pattern was designed and produced using the CLO program, and the virtual fitting was evaluated. First, it was possible to confirm the slope (profile line) from the front center line to the point in front of the neck, the sagging shape of the breast, and the change in body shape due to the increase in bust circumference using the CLO program. Second, the change in body surface and body surface length according to movement was used to identify the profile line. The bust dart was very large. and the bust circumference showed the largest changes (5.05% in the 90° side and 1.5% of the breast width). Third, the total length reference line of the basic bodice was the back length (actual measurement). The total width reference line was the bust circumference/4+2cm and the breast width+0.5cm. The armhole depth reference line was the bust circumference/4–2. A profile line was created from the front neck circumference to the neck shoulder point to the breast point. Darts were formed on the back shoulder and back armhole lines. The allowances were 8 and 6cm for the bust and waist circumferences, respectively. All virtual fitting evaluation items improved significantly over two rounds (from 3.69/5 to 4.66/5 points).

The purpose of this study is to suggest a designing method with excellent body suitability by analyzing clothingwearing porosity, comparing and analyzing patterns, and evaluating outer appearances by designing a prototype of study applied with design measurements for categories that have influence on the outer appearance of clothing through diverse research methods, by comparing and analyzing bunka and new bunka style basic pattern, which are proportional basic patterns most frequently used in schools for educational use to design bodice pattern for elderly women in their late 60s. As for the process of this study, the first stage selected study subjects, measured bodies. The second stage compared patterns of bunka and new bunka style basic pattern and evaluated outer appearances that deduced important pattern designing categories to design upper-torso bodice pattern of elderly women. The results of this study are as following ; As a result of comparing and analyzing bunka and new bunka style basic pattern, overall evaluation of outer appearance was excellent for new bunka style basic pattern, and bunka basic pattern received better reviews for the width and depth of front neck. In terms of waist circumference, waist front length, bust point location and bust point-bust point, bunka and new bunka style basic patterns showed a significant difference. new bunka style basic pattern had 4.5cm larger front armhole depth than bunka basic pattern, so it was evaluated to have more appropriate front armhole length, bust point location, and bust point-bust point. Through observation for primary excellent categories and precedent studies, 7 categories of front neck width, front neck depth, front interscye, back neck width, back neck depth, back interscye, and back armhole depth were deduced to have relations to the extra room around arm holes and waist that affect pattern designing method and porosity and evaluations of outer appearance.