The purpose of this study is to create a shirt sloper suitable for an elderly male body shape by producing virtual models using a 3D-virtualization program, making a torso prototype using the Yuka CAD system, and employing 3D simulation to virtualize and calibrate the model. First, the following three types of obese dummies are implemented through the CLO 3D program: Type 1 exhibits body fat in the lower body; Type 2 exhibits an obese abdomen; and Type 3 displays a balanced form of obesity. Second, for the design of the shirt pattern, the waist back length (measured value+1), back armhole depth (C/10+12+3+0.5~1.5), front armhole depth (back armhole depth 0~1), front interscye (2C/10‒1+0.5‒0.5), armscye depth (C/10+2+3.5+ 0.5), back interscye (2C/10‒1+1), front chest C (C/4+2.5+1), back chest C (C/4+2.5‒1), front hem C (C/4+2.5+1(+2)), back hem C (C/4+2.5‒1(+2)), cap height (AH/3‒5), and biceps width (Front AH‒1, Back AH‒1) are calculated. Third, the virtual attachment of the shirt pattern is resolved by increasing the front and back armhole depths, and the front and rear wrinkles are improved by adding a back armhole dart. The front hem lift and lateral pull caused by the protrusion of the abdomen are amended by increasing the margin of the chest, waist C, and hip C, with the appearance improved by balanced margin distribution in the front, back, and side panels. The improved retail pattern with an increase in the front armholes C was balanced on the torso plate.

This study aims to compare the ease of shirt patterns in the men's wear market that have been constantly developing, and to analyze the fitness and appearance through the 3D virtual try-on system. The study selected three industrial patterns and two educational materials of classic-fit and slim-fit shirts for a total of ten items. The experiments involved virtual wearing, a stress contact point perspective map, and appearance evaluations. First, the ease differed significantly in the chest, waist, and sleeve cap height according to the patterns. Second, based on the stress, contact point, and transparency, there was ease in the order of Nam, D-brand, J-brand, Park, and S-brand in the classic-fit shirts while the order of D-brand, Nam, J-brand, Park, and S-brand resulted in the slim-fit shirts. Third, in the appearance evaluation, higher points resulted in the order of J-brand, Park, S-brand, D-brand, and Nam in both classic-fit and slim-fit. The results showed that proper ease differs greatly by shirt-fit and target age. Also, the shirts with more ease tended to be evaluated less favorably in the appearance evaluation. Based on the results, the study suggests that the proper ease in chest circumference is 18cm for the classic-fit shirts and 6 cm for the slim-fit shirts.

본 연구는 남성셔츠 소재의 선염 줄무늬 특성에 따른 시각적 감성 이미지의 차원을 알아보고 소비자들의 감성을 만족시키는 남성셔츠 소재용 줄무늬 디자인 개발을 위한 기초정보를 얻고자 하는 것이다. 본 연구 결과 남성셔츠 줄무늬 감성은 매력성, 성숙성, 품위성, 실용성, 단순성의 5가지 차원으로 구분되었다. 남성셔츠 소재 줄무늬의 특성이 감성 차원 및 선호도와 구매 욕구에 밀접한 관계가 있었다. 색상, 배열, 간격 등 줄무늬의 특성이 남성셔츠 소재의 시각적 감성에 유의한 영향을 미치고 두 가지 두께의 부등간격 줄무늬 조합이 매력성, 실용성이 높기 때문에 선호된다는 것을 확인하였다. 또한 대조되는 복합색의 줄무늬가 매력성이 높으므로 선호되는 것으로 나타났다.

This study aims to express the androgynous image via shirts as a fashion item. Shirts are widely worn as a fashion item regardless of sex and age, with growing importance as a casual outer, with the increase in leisure activities driven by the recent implementation of the 5-Day Work Week system in Korea. As for the theoretical background, the study was reviewed previous studies of books, thesis, a series of publication, and the Internet sites on this topic. Through a careful analysis of these previous studies, it designed and made shirts that inspired by androgynous image. Conclusions of this study are as follows: First, the study found that meanings of symbolism in clothing continue to change, not fixed at all, depending on historic and cultural environments, and so does symbolism for femininity and masculinity of clothing. Second, shirts are widely worn as a fashion item regardless of sex and age, with growing importance as a casual outer, with the increase in leisure activities driven by the recent implementation of the 5-Day Work Week system in Korea. Third, two patters were used for the work in this study in order to emphasize its form, along with mono color white and stripe patterns. For materials, cotton and blend as a most basic material for a shirt were used with unique variations in the form. Fourth, decorative details or trimming such as ribbon tying methods, shirring, attaching in layers, and irregular pleading widely used for women’s wear were applied, and silhouettes with strong drape feelings were used to add feminine feature to men’ shirts, in an effort to propose a fashion design of the androgynous look. Fifth, clothes proposed in this study are different from feminine clothing item blouse, because they are androgynous shirts mixing masculinity and femininity. Stiff pads were used in collars and cuffs characteristics of men’s traditional shirts to maintain masculinity of a shirt, and design was developed by adding feminine decorative elements, which is different from women’s blouse.