The influence of Japonism, which is the post-mid-19th century phenomenon of appreciating and preferring the Japanese style that manifested all across Western art, started to grow as a result of the active open-door policy of Japan at this time. As all areas of Japanese arts and culture, such as paintings, sculptures and theater plays, influenced Europe and America, this influence developed into a cultural phenomenon that was reflected even in fashion. The characteristic elements of the kimono first expanded from Paris and showed a similar silhouette to that of the traditional kimono in the early 20th century, but towards the middle and the end of the century, kimono sleeves that were connected as one piece without a connecting seam line between the sleeve and bodice started to appear. The foundation of this research focuses on the design characteristics of kimono sleeves that can be seen in 20th-century fashion, and five varying kimono sleeve jackets and coats based on these formative characteristics were designed. Each design had a gusset design added, which improved the external and mobility problems inherent in kimono sleeve patterns, while at the same time serving as a proposal for new design element applications. Additionally, through various changes to and attempts at designs using the kimono sleeve as a limiting factor, new design possibilities were explored.

The purpose of this study is to find an expression method for Korean fashion design that can have competitiveness in the global fashion market. For this, fashion specialists at home and abroad were interviewed, focusing on their opinions on the Korean motifs outlined in existing literature studies. First, aesthetic sense and expression characteristics that have appeared in existing studies on Korean art, Korean traditional costume, and Korean fashion were explored. As a result, they were categorized into: Modesty/plainness, freewheelingness, religion/custom, and humor/joke. During this process, Korean design motifs were extracted based on the aesthetic characteristic and expression method of aesthetic sense. According to the opinions on Korean design motifs and Korean fashion design works drawn from the interviews with fashion specialists at home and abroad, Changhomun was the favorite design motif to be utilized in Korean fashion design. The Korean specialists thought that visual design motifs were important, while the overseas specialists had more interest in abstract design motifs, which embody the background and story behind the motif. Regarding the fashion design associated with the Korean design motif, all specialists at home and abroad favored the design using ceramics and wrapping cloth. Regarding the choice of fashion image, Korean specialists chose the design utilizing Hangeul as the most Korean, while the foreign specialists chose designs reflecting the design motifs of Hangeul and Hanbok for women. The Korean specialists chose relatively more Korean images, while the foreign specialists chose more eastern images or other images than Korean images.

The object of this study is to develop textile designs and fashion products based on the cultural resource of Jeju Bangsatop, which means a stone tower preventing misfortune and driving out evil spirits. The field surveys of 32 Bangsatops located at 17 villages in Jeju were conducted. As a result, unlike stone towers located in other regions, Jeju Bangsatops made with basalt. In addition, wood and stone birds, Dolhareungbang, and other sculptures are built on the tops. Jeju Bangsatops were classified into four types based on the body form of the tops: Conical, truncated conical, trapezoid, and irregular shaped Bangsatops. Jeju Bangsatops located in a area or a village are symmetrically arranged in direction of south and north, left and right, east and west, or face to face. The conical, truncated conical, and irregular shaped Jeju Bangsatops which are designated as folk cultural properties or which have the unique sculptures of stone birds and the statues of Dolhareungbang built on the tops were selected as motifs for textile pattern design. The 4 basic patterns of Jeju Bangstops were designed. The six creative textile designs were developed by the various repeat arrangements of the basic patterns and were printed on oxford cotton fabrics by digital textile printing (DTP) method. The sixteen products of wallets, bags, hats and shoes were actually made with the DTP fabrics, the DTP fabrics which were naturally dyed in gray and blue colors, or the DTP fabrics which were redesigned with textile crayon. Therefore, it is confirmed that Jeju Bangsatop could be very useful as a motif for the development of cultural products focusing on Jeju tourism souvenir market.

This study is to develop cultural products based on 'Jeju Choga', which means the traditional houses in Jeju. For the product development, old literature review, field surveys, and consumer surveys were employed. Through old literatures and field surveys, the unique and visual characteristics of Jeju Choga were confirmed: A thatched roof with lattice pattern, a side wall and fences with porous stones, a 'Jungnang' serving as a gate, and a 'Pungchai' preventing strong sola radiation and 'Ollai' meaning a narrow street in front of the Choga. As a results of consumer survey conducted before the development of products, consumers highly recognized and associated Jeju Choga as Jeju representative image. The six basic patterns of Jeju Choga were drawn and eight textile designs were created through the repeated arrangements of the basic patterns. Using the created textile designs and digital printing method, the eleven new fabrics with the patterns of Jeju Choga were developed. The various kinds of ten bags and tow wallets made with the new fabrics. As a result of consumer evaluation for the twelve products made in this study, the scores of preference and purchase intention were above the average work for the most products of them. In particular, the preference and purchase intention of the square shoulder bag, the big-size shopper bag, and the small-size cross bag were very positively evaluated. Therefore, it is confirmed that Jeju Choga could be very useful as a motif for the development of cultural products focusing on Jeju tourism souvenir market.

This study attempted to figure out the usage of the modular system in other fields through literature review and empirical study, analyze its structural method in fashion. After analyzing architecture & product-related books, the Internet data and previous studies, the modular system's five structural methods were obtained. Then, 991 photos of women's clothes from 2003 to 2014 were collected through the fashion websites in Korea and abroad. The results can be summarized as follows: First, the following five structures were derived: assembling structure, overlapping structure, arrangement structure, inserting structure and folding structure. Second, according to analysis on the structural method of the modular system in modern fashion, overlapping structure (34%) was the most common. Third, in fashion, the use of fastener for installation and removal is important for assembling structure. In terms of overlapping structure, 3D volume by vertical accumulation was commonly observed. Arrangement structure revealed a horizontal and flat shape through simple arrangement. In inserting structure, on the contrary, non-standardized modules were used as a part of clothes or decorative elements. In folding structure, origami technique for reduction and expansion was used.

The areas of fashion research and fashion design aesthetics & fashion history have been studied under a common research heading as a Humanities subject in the UK and the USA, and as Clothing and Textiles Studies in Korea. The purpose of this paper was to analyze the 2004~2013 research tendencies in terms of reporting methods and contents from 181 world-renowned Fashion Theory research papers within the UK and USA fashion research corpus, and 359 Korean research papers from The Research Journal of Costume Culture related to fashion design aesthetics & costume history field. The subject areas, periods, methodologies, and differences in the topics of the studies were examined. The results of the research are as follows. Regarding the research authorship and length of the research papers, in Fashion Theory most papers were written by a single English-speaking or other foreign language-speaking author and were on average longer than 21 pages, while in The Research Journal of Costume Culture, many papers were jointly written by two Korean researchers and were between 11 and 20 pages. Regarding the content, Fashion Theory was connected to relatively wide and diverse periodical and regional boundaries including the body, clothing, the fashion media, and the overall fashion system, while The Research Journal of Costume Culture revolved around the body and clothing, textiles, the fashion media, and costumes. In addition, since the late 20th century, the studies appeared to be related to the current Western world overall or to the country of the author. Regarding the research methodology, Fashion Theory used diverse research subjects and methodologies, and research was conducted on topics relating to fashion culture or fashion aesthetics. On the other hand, The Research Journal of Costume Culture featured relatively more dynamic studies aimed at suggesting developments or solutions to problems. It was found that a large share of that research focused on detailed style analyses and suggestions for aspects such as design elements and design developments. Such differences are considered to be caused by the inherent differences between the academic departments for the Humanities, and the Human Ecology. The above research results are expected to provide fundamental information in setting a direction for future research to assist the globalization of domestic research.

This study aims to develop motifs and patterns for fashion cultural product designs in order to promote the Iksan Seodong Festival, which is the most representative festival in Iksan region. The motifs and patterns developed in this study can be used to introduce the distinct traditional culture depicting the legendary Seodong tale. This study used Adobe Illustrator CS4 and Adobe Photoshop CS4 to reconstruct the lotus motifs found from the green-oiled-lotus-motif rafter tile, the atrifact from Iksan Mireuksaji Museum. This lotus motif and the motif based on the Iksan City's logo were applied to a repeating pattern with colorways using the CMYK found from the Iksan city's logo. A total of 24 product designs, including 8 necktie designs, 8 scarf designs, and 8 T-shirts designs, were presented for fashion cultural products. The designs developed in this study can promote not only the local Iksan culture but also the national image of Korea on a global scale.

Traditional culture could be a wonderful source of inspiration for creative design. Tteoksal, the stamps used for making decorative patterns on traditional rice-cakes, have been used and passed on to generations to show the emotions of our ancestors. Numerous traditional patterns found in Tteoksal can be used to better understand and transmit tradition in modern ways. The purpose of this study was to develop fashion cultural products with a modern sensibility by understanding the origin, types and characteristics of Tteoksal and its patterns. The method of this study was through considering the proceeding studies and the references published by a specialist and museums having some information about further knowledge on Tteoksal. In line with the aforementioned study, neckties, eco-friendly bags and pouches were developed as fashion goods. Among the Tteoksal's patterns selected were lotus, bats, 樂letters and complex patterns. Using a computer graphic software program such as Adobe Illustrator CS5, archetypes of patterns were traced as vector graphics, and two design motives were developed in every pattern. The patterns were developed into two types: one was a basic pattern faithful to a basic motive pattern, and the other was a varied type that was changed and applied. The fashion products were developed as two styles for basic and varied patterns for neckties, eco-friendly bags and pouch items. Twelve products were made for each pattern, which totals 48 unique products. In conclusion, the study could be a critical step to better understand the traditional culture and its influence to the patterns applied to modern fashion design.

The purpose for this paper is to categorize and analyze the aesthetic characteristics of graphic factors in contemporary fashion design by media source. Focused on play-instinct visual expression in contemporary fashion design and adopted media source following the way of communication design. A variety of literatures and online sites for graphic factors in contemporary fashion was studied. The standard of media source is classified as graphic media-source: photography media-source, typography media-source, illustration media-source. With this standard, expressed ways are as followings. First, graphic media-source in play-instinct expressional fashion design is mostly borrowing existed character or using designer’s brand logo. Second, photography media-source in play-instinct expressional fashion design is placed photograph of social issued people in front of shirt. Third, typography media-source in play-instinct expressional contemporary fashion design is mostly expressed social messages or designer’s name in brand. Fourth, illustration media-source is the best way to express play-instinct visual expression. Based on these, aesthetic characteristics of graphic factor in contemporary fashion by media source are classified as three: social words, playfulness and information transference. Frequency ratio using media source per aesthetic characteristics is different and these are able to categorize expression way and image feature. In conclusion, expressional way of graphic factors in contemporary fashion design became diverse as social and cultural changing. Frequency of graphic factor use in contemporary fashion is increased than before. This paper suggested that fashion design is one of the way of communicating with people and should be analyzed graphic factors in contemporary fashion design.