Spider silk, which combines strength and lightness, emerges as an ideal candidate for non-woven fabric production. Unlike synthetic polymeric materials, silk are nontoxic and biocompatible and cause no allergic reaction. In particular, the dragline silk produced by the golden orb-web spider, Trichoephila clavata, is renowned for its superior strength and exceptional mechanical properties compared to other spider silks. Non-woven fabrics have found extensive applications in diverse industrial sectors, owing to their advantageous qualities such as breathability, durability, and lightweight characteristics. Natural dragline silk was extracted from the orb-weaving spider and subsequently randomly arranged. Compressing into a sheet-plane form, in addition to inducing the formation of water-resistant, stable β-sheet structures through ethanol vapor treatment or direct treatment, preserved the morphology of the silk fibers. The resulting non-woven sheets were analyzed with an field emission scanning electron microscope (FESEM) to observe their fine structures and mesh size were measured through image analysis.

In this study, the dyeing of silk fabric with Polygonum cuspidatum extracts was investigated. The contents of this study are as follows. First, the proper dyeing conditions were investigated by measuring the dye uptake (K/S value) that depended on the dyeing conditions when silk fabric was dyed with Polygonum cuspidatum extract. Second, the brightness (L), hue, and chroma differences that appear after mordanting with Al, Cu and Fe were investigated by measuring the CIELAB and Munsell values. And third, the colorfastness and antibacterial property were measured. When the silk fabric was dyed with Polygonum cuspidatum extract, the proper dyeing conditions were a colorant concentration of 90% v/v, a dyeing of time 100 minutes, a dyeing temperature of 70℃, and a dyeing of pH 3. In mordanting methods, the dyeabilities of post-mordanting were higher than those of premordanting. The hue value displayed yellow (Y) and yellow-red (YR) in cases of pre and post mordanting. The C value decreased by the mordanting of Polygonum cuspidatum extracts. Generally the colorfastness of mordanted fabrics was improved by mordanting. The dyed fabrics showed a 90.6% of Staphylococcus aureus reduction rate, and the dyed and mordanted fabrics showed 97.1% bacteria reduction rate. The dyed and mordanted fabrics showed above 90.5% Klebsiella pneumoniae reduction rate, and Cu mordant revealed the most effective bacterial reduction.

본 연구는 천연염색 견직물의 색상과 톤, 염료 및 매염에 따른 색채감성 이미지 요인의 차이를 고찰하여 천연염색 견직물의 색채감성 이미지 스케일을 구축하고자 하였다. 다양한 국내 외 시판 천연염료로 단일 및 복합염색을 실시하여 얻은 대표적인 66개 색채의 동일한 견직물을 대상으로 주관적 평가를 실시하였다. 연구 결과로서 추출된 색채감성 요인 중에서 '유쾌성'은 Blue와 Green, vivid와 bright의 색채이거나, 치자황과 치자청, 황토, 홍화씨로 염색, 또는 알루미늄으로 매염하였을 때 강하게 인지되었으며, '자연성'은 Purple Blue, light, light grayish, pale의 색채, 또는 빈랑자, 오배자로 염색하였을 때 높게 평가받았다. '현대성'은 Green, Blue Green, Blue의 색채에서, 염료로는 생쪽과 치자청, 철 매염시에 높은 평가를 받았으며, '매력성'은 Red, Red Purple, Purple과 dark, 염료로는 오배자, 랙, 꼭두서니, 매염제로는 알루미늄 또는 구리를 사용하였을 때 더 강하게 느껴지는 것을 알 수 있었다. 나아가 천연염색 견직물의 색채 특성과 감성 이미지 형용사 간의 관계에 의한 시각적 이미지 스케일을 구축하였다. 따라서 본 연구의 결과는 색채감성 지향 천연염색 직물 및 의류 제품의 기획 및 설계를 기초데이터로 활용될 수 있을 것으로 기대된다.