The purpose of this research was to revive the bathochromic effects of wool fabrics by using natural dyestuffs with minimum heavy metallic mordants. The natural dyestuffs used in this research were the indigo plant, Phellodendron amurense, and Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 1 was pre-dyed five times with indigo. Sample no. 2 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense. Following the same method as sample no. 2 with an additional Phellodendron, Sample no. 3 consisted of a pre-dye five times with indigo and twice with Phellodendron amurense. Sample no. 4 was pre-dyed six times with indigo and then once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 5 followed the same method as no. 4 with an additional dye of Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 6 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense and once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. The results were as follows: first, all samples showed deeper colors. Second, according to the results of the surface K/S measurement, the surface K/S of wool fabrics was >20. Third, the results of lightfastness measurement showed superiority over grade 4 in samples no. 1, 2, 3, 5, and 6. However, sample no. 4 was grade 3. In the colorfastness to washing measurement, sample no. 2 showed greater superiority than grade 3—4, while samples no. 1 and 3 were grade 3. In addition, the colorfastness to dry cleaning for all samples was satisfactory or excellent by more than grade 3.

The purpose of this research is to revive the colors of combination dyeing and mixed dyeing with natural dyestuffs. The fabrics used were cotton and rayon. The natural dyestuffs used in this research were indigo, Phellodendron amurense, and Caesalpinia sappan. The effects of combination dyeing were as follows. First, all samples showed deeper colors. Second, according to the results of the surface K/S measurement, while the surface K/S of cotton was over 15, that of rayon was over 17. Third, the results of the light fastness measurement showed the superiority (by over grade 4) of all the samples, except in the case of rayon fiber sample no. 6 (which had been pre-dyed with indigo five times before being dyed with P. amurense once and then being dyed with C. sappan once). In the color fastness to washing measurement, all fibers showed superiority (by over grade 3~4). In addition, the color fastness to dry cleaning of all fibers was satisfactory or excellent (by over grade 3). Fourth, according to the results of the tensile strength measurement, it tended to decrease in the case of cotton and increase in the case of rayon. Fifth, the results of the density measurement showed that the density of cotton decreased by about 15~20% in the case of warp and 10% in the case of weft for all samples. The density of rayon decreased 20% in the case of warp for all samples and increased 30% in the case of weft for all samples.

Diazotization of STA synthesized by the indirect diazotization method. The effect of catalyst and agitation (rpm) about STA and H-acid reaction were examined and the optimum conditions were investigated experimentally. The yields and characteristics of 1.st coupling and diazotization synthesis were identified by HPLC and FT-IR analysis. 1.st condensation of CNC and mPDSA were synthesized at 5℃ and pH=6.5. The conditions of alkaly coupling of H-acid were synthesized at 5℃ and pH=8. The condensation of products was identified by U. V. analysis. From this results, It was obtained to reactive dyestuffs of bi-functional reactivity with high fastness and high adsorption.

Diazotization of 2-Amino-5-nitrophenol was Synthesized by the direct diazotization method. The diazonium salts are usually stabilized in the from of double salts. The double salts of zinc chloride are the Commonest, and the double salt method is Specially applicable to the yield-up of coupling. The azo dye(2-naphthol-1-(2'-diazo-5'-nitrophenol)) is Converted into a chromium Complex by heating(100℃) with chromic formate, and DMF. The removal of inorganic salts from dyestuffs was performed in DMF solvent. This effect was more pronounced. From these results, It was obtained to liquid dyestuffs of metal complex with High fastness and high adsorption.

반응염색(反應染色) 견(絹) fibroin의 graft 중합(重合) 거동(擧動)을 알아보기 위하여, C. I. Reactive Yellow 179, Red 2, Black 5, Blue 13, Blue 49, Blue 4, Blue 19, Red 6, Blue 71, Blue 21로 견(絹) fibroin의 염착량(染着量)이 각각 다르게 염색(染色)하고, methacrylamide graft 중합(重合)하였으며 그 결론(結論)은 다음과 같다. 1. 염료(染料)의 고착속도(固着速度)는 흡착속도(吸着速度)와 일치(一致)하는 경향(傾向)이었으며, 고착속도(固着速度)는 Yellow 179 및 Blue 71이 가장 낮았고, Black 5, Blue 49, Blue 4, Blue 19, Blue 21은 비교적 빠른 것으로 나타났다. 2. 염색시간(染色時間)이 경과(經過)할수록 즉(卽), 염착량(染着量)이 증가(增加)할수록 증량율(增量率)은 감소(減少)하는 것으로 나타났으나, Blue 71 및 Blue 21 염색(染色) 견(絹) fibroin의 증량율(增量率)은 염착량(染着量)의 다소(多少)에 관계없이 현저하게 높았으며, Blue 19의 경우 증량율(增量率)은 12% 내외(內外)로 일정(一定)하게 나타났고, Yellow 179 염색(染色) 견(絹) fibroin의 증량율(增量率)은 무처리(無處理) 견(絹) fibroin과 비슷한 것으로 나타났다. 3. 평형염색(平衡染色) 견(絹) fibroin의 증량율(增量率)은 Blue 71 및 Blue 21 염색(染色) 견(絹) fibroin의 경우를 제외하고는 모두 무처리(無處理) 견(絹) fibroin에 비하여 낮은 것으로 나타났으며, 염색온도(染色溫度)가 상승(上昇)할수록 증량율(增量率)은 저하(低下)하는 것으로 나타났다. 4. Graft 중합(重合) 과정에서 색상(色相)이 다소(多少) 변화(變化)하는 것으로 나타났다.

천연염료로서 금계국의 이용가능성과 금계국 식물체에서 추출한 염료를 이용한 천연염색시 천연매염제 처리농도, 매염방법 및 종류에 따른 견직물의 염색성을 조사하였다. 금계국 추출물로 견직물을 염색한 결과 표면색상은 무매염시 Y계열로 나타났으며, 매염처리시는 Y 및 YR 계열로 나타나 천연 염료로서의 이용 가능성이 충분했다. 동백나무 회즙, 굴껄질 회즙, 노린재 나무 회즙을 10%, 20%, 30% 농도로 매염처리 한 후 견직물의 염색성을 조사한 결과 농도에 따른 표면색상 변화는 거의 없었으나 염착농도는 20%에서 가장 좋았다. 견직물의 표면색은 매염처리 방법에는 큰 영향을 받지 않았으나 염착농도는 후매염, 선매염, 동시매염 처리구 순으로 높게 나타났다. 금계국 추출물로 천연염색한 견직물에 29종의 천연매염제를 처리한 결과 견직물의 표면색은 동백나무와 사스레피나무 회즙 매염처리구에서만 YR계열을 나타냈고, 그외 처리구에서는 Y계열로 나타났다. 또 천연매염제를 처리한 결과 염착농도는 무매염 처리구에 비해 월등히 높아져 천연매염제로서도 매염효과를 충분히 낼 수 있음을 확인되었다.