본 연구에서는 역학적으로 실질적이면서도 단순화된 방법으로 폭풍과 같은 악후시에 임의의 해안단면에서 발생하는 소상파의 수동학적 거동에 대한 예측모델을 개발하고자 한다. 실제 크기의 폭풍과 조건하에서 사구의 침식을 모의하기 위해 수행된 대형조파수조 실험에서 계측된 실험자료가 모델 개발을 위해서 활용된다. 일반적으로 본 모델은 해안종단방향에서의 소상파의 파고, 속도 및 주기의 변화를 예측할수 있음을 보인다. 정량적으로 보다 나은 소상파 변수들에 대한 예측은

Gansong is a great scholar in Choson dynasty middleages. He was born in Haman county Kyungsang province depend in Nammyung school. However, He was educaded by three scholars belong to Tygae school from young age. Because his learning and personality was influenced from them strongly. especially from Yuheon. But he cannot help belonging to Nammyung school, for many Nammyung's disciple have resided in his hometown Haman and his wife's hometown moreover Nammyung's hometown Samga. Besides his father-in-law Nopa was the disciple of Nammyung's disciple Junginhong and he had be the chairman of Yongyam memorial hause. Though Gansong became a member of Nammyung school, he never has seceded from Tygae school. He has always play active part as both a member of Nammyung school and a member of Tygae school. Consequently his association span was very wide, and he made the best use of these circumstances. He has strained every nerve to mediate two schools. He was well-balanced scholar, so he has supported neither Nammyung school nor Tygac school. He adopted the good points of two schools and developed himself, became new own personality. Therefore he never have abtained a post in the government keeping his integrity. Though he has lived at seclusion, he has never forgotten nation and people. This point was influenced by Nammyung school. He has wirtten many prosees and poets, this point was influenced by Tygae school. His successors have regarded him as a member of Tygae school in order to uplit him. But this is not true. It is clear that he is both a member of Nammyung school and a member of Tygae school. His poet is very excellent, so deserves minutely study. If so, we can grasp him more crosely.

The ocean wave is hydrodynamically investigated to get more reliable solution. To improve the computational accuracy more fine grids are used with relatively less computer storage on the free surface. One element of the free surface is discretized into more fine grids because the free-surface waves are much affected by the grid size in the finite difference scheme. Here the multi-grid method is applied to confirm the efficiency for the S103 ship model by solving the Navier-Stokes equation for the turbulent flows. According to the computational result approximately 30% can be improved in the free surface generation, Finally the limiting streamlines show numerical result is similar to the experiment by twin tuft.

본 논문에서는 단일파의 최대 처오름높이에 관하여 연구하였다. 경계요소법을 이용한 수치모형으로 고립파와 N-파의 처오름높이를 계산하였으며, 수치모형에서는 바닥마찰저항 효과를 고려하였다. 계산된 최대 처오름높이는 기존의 수리모형실험 관측자료, 다른 수치모형 및 근사 해석에 의한 결과와 비교하였으며, 경계요소법에 의해 계산된 처오름높이는 다른 결과들과 매우 잘 일치한다.

Large offshore structure are to be considered for oil storage facilities , marine terminals, power plants, offshore airports, industrial complexes and recreational facilities. Some of them have already been constructed. Some of the envisioned structures will be of the artificial-island type, in which the bulk of structures may act as significant barriers to normal waves and the prediction of the wave intensity will be of importance for design of structure. The present study deals wave scattering problem combining reflection and diffraction of waves due to the shape of the impermeable rigid upright structure, subject to the excitation of a plane simple harmonic wave coming from infinity. In this study, a finite difference technique for the numerical solution is applied to the boundary integral equation obtained for wave potential. The numerical solution is verified with the analytic solution. The model is applied to various structures, such as the detached breakwater (3L×0.1L), bird-type breakwater(318L×0.17L), cylinder-type and crescent -type structure (2.89L×0.6L, 0.8L×0.26L).The result are presented in wave height amplification factors and wave height diagram. Also, the amplification factors across the structure or 1 or 2 wavelengths away from the structure are compared with each given case. From the numerical simulation for the various boundary types of structure, we could figure out the transformation pattern of waves and predict the waves and predict the wave intensity in the vicinity of large artificial structures.