본 연구에서는 피부미백제로 개발된 레조시놀다이펜틸에터[1,3-di(pentyloxyl)benzene]를 함유 하여 조성 상전이 방법(Phase Inversion Composition, PIC)방법으로 제조된 RS-Nanoemulsion의 경피 흡수 및 피부 미백 효능효과에 대해서 연구하였다. 지표성분인 1,3-di(pentyloxyl)benzene를 mineral oil 에 용해한 대조시료와 일반 O/W유화법으로 제조된 RS-emulsion시료를 비교 대상으로 인체 피부에 대 한 경피 흡수시험을 수행하였다. 시험결과, RS-Nanoemulsion 시료는 지표성분인 1,3-di(pentyloxyl) benzene를 mineral oil에 용해한 대조시료와 RS-emulsion 시료에 비해 통계적으로 유의하게 높은 지표 성분 경피 투과율을 나타내었다. RS-Nanoemulsion을 O/W크림에 함유하여 만든 크림 제형의 피부임 상시험을 통하여 그 유효성을 평가하고자 하였으며, 상기 시험결과 시험제품과 대조제품 모두 8주간의 시험기간에 특별한 이상반응이 관찰되지 않아 안전한 제품으로 확인되었고, 사용 8주 후 평가에서 대조 제품 사용에 비해 시험제품이 통계적으로 유의한 수준으로 피부미백에 도움을 주는 효과가 있는 것을 확인하였다.

Polymers in cosmetics are used to deliver desired attributes to skin and hair. Precisely constructed block and graft copolymers widen the range of available mechanical properties and compatibilities. Stimuli responsive hydrophobic polymers can be triggered to become hydrophilic by changes in their environment and this can confer waterproof properties at low temperature and easy water removal at higher temperatures. Transfer-resistant cosmetics can be possible due to silicone resins. The control of rheology properties in cosmetics gradually continue to be easy with copolymers. Durability of colors and fragrances for rinse-off products can be enhanced by delivery systems from complex coacervates. Polymeric anti-microbials promise product preservation while minimizing the concern of skin permeation. This article reviews recent trends in the use of polymers in cosmetics.

나노에멀젼은 서브마이크론 크기의 에멀젼으로 치료 약물의 전달을 향상시키는 약물 전달체로서 많은 연구가 진행되고 있다. 본 연구의 목표는 폴리머를 함유한 나노에멀젼의 안정성에 대한 연구이다. 고농도의 Carbopol 941, Aristoflex AVC, Aronbis M, Permulen TR 2 및 Aculyn 44를 함유한 나노에멀젼의 안정성은 마크로에멀젼과는 다르게 불안정하였다. 폴리머를 유화 전에 첨가하여 제조한 에멀젼이 유화 후 폴리머를 첨가하여 제조한 에멀젼에 비해 초기 입자 크기가 더 크게 형성되었다. 저 농도의 폴리머를 함유한 경우에도 폴리머를 함유하지 않은 나노에멀젼에 비해 안정성이 감소하였으나 그 정도는 고농도에 비해 적었다. 점도가 유사한 경우 안정성에 미치는 순서는 Aristoflex AVC < Carbopol 941 < Permulen TR2 < Carbopol 941 + Aculyn 44 < Aronbis M의 순서로 불안정하였다.

올레오겔은 친유성의 액체와 고체의 혼합물로 정의할 수 있다. 고상의 지질 물질(올레오겔 형성제)은 10 wt.% 미만의 농도로 네크워크 형성에 의해 오일을 함유할 수 있다. 올레오겔 형성제는 자발적 회합계와 결정화 입자계의 두 가지 그룹으로 나눌 수 있다. 본 연구에서는 다양한 올레오겔 형성제를 이용한 올레오겔 형성에 관한 최근 연구 결과를 살펴보고자 한다. 지질 네트워크 형성의 기본적인 양상을 올레오겔을 기본으로 한 결정화 입자와 관련하여 논의하고자 한다. 또한 올레오겔의 화장품에의 응용 사례에 대해 기술하고자 한다.

식품산업에서의 나노기술은 많은 연구와 가능성 있는 제품으로 새롭게 각광받는 분야이다. 나노와 마이크로 크기의 고체 입자는 유화된 오일 또는 물 입자를 함유하는 분산계의 처방에 적용 가능성이 매우 높은 것으로 인식되고 있다. 본 논문은 식용의 지방 결정, 실리카 나노 입자 및 생체 유래의 나노 결정체에 기반을 둔 식품 에멀젼의 성질과 개발에 관한 리뷰논문으로 다양한 피커링 안정화 분야에 관하여 검토하였다. 특히, 단백질로 안정화된 일반적인 에멀젼과 비교하여 Pickering 안정화 입자에 대해 초점을 맞추고자한다. 또한, 식품 산업에서 이들의 응용 예를 다루고자한다.

본 실험에서는 투명비누를 만드는데 사용되는 폴리올의 최적 농도를 실험계획법을 이용하여 결정하였다. 짧은 사슬을 보유한 디프로필렌글리콜과 1,3 부틸렌글리콜은 비누의 투명도를 증가시켰으나 폴리에틸렌글리콜 400, 글리세린과 디글리세린은 비누를 불투명하게 하였다. 프로필렌글리콜, 디글리세린, 디프로필렌글리콜 및 폴리에틸렌글리콜의 농도를 증가시키면 비누의 경도는 증가하였다. 경도, 투명도, 물의 흡수성 및 마찰 용해도는 디프로필렌글리콜, 폴리에틸렌글리콜, 설탕과 트리에탄올아민의 농도를 조절하여 최적화할 수 있었다.

In this study, we evaluate the anti-microbiological activity of paraben in eye shadows that are composed of pigments and oil binders using various analytical methods and microbiological tests. Paraben does not show the microbiological activity properly when it was used with Nylon SP® 10, Talc RF SSA®, OMC Talc AS® and BaSO4. In the test of fungi, Nylon SP® 10 causes the decrease of microbiological activity regardless of the type of oil binders. The pigment of Mango violet also causes the decrease of microbiological activity when ester oil binder was used. Regardless of the type of oil binder, samples containing nylon SP 10, 0.15% of methyl paraben and 0.05% of propyl paraben had not been able to maintain microbiological activity only if the concentration of parabens were increased. Trace amounts of metal ions present in pigments reduced the activity of preservatives by inactivation of hydroxyl group of paraben. It is thought that swollen nylon SP 10 in ester oil increase the absorption or interaction of parabens and swollen nylon powder causes the inactivation of paraben.

Various research on the surface of the skin and the relationship between epidermis and composition of ion have been performed. Traditionally, bamboo extract was used as an important material for enhancing healthy condition of a skin. Bamboo salt is well known as one of the most famous traditional medical treatments. In this study, we investigated the stability of P/S (Polyol-in-Silicone) emulsions containing a fair amount of bamboo salt in the range of 0.5~5.0 wt%. For improving the stability of emulsions, we varied the quantity of fatty alcohol and wax ester in emulsions and the stability was checked using DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimeter). We also studied the efficacy of treating the P/S emulsions containing bamboo salt. From the experiment, the emulsions show the mitigation of stimuli, enhancing the skin hydration and improving the appearance of the skin.

Over the years, scientists have developed many test methods to evaluate the efficacy of skin care products. The needs for objective assessment have stimulated to develop instruments that are capable of reliably monitoring some parameters in evaluating skin conditions. The beauty is evaluated as a measure of smoothness of skin surface. Quantitative size measurements of skin pores is also important concept to evaluate the their conditions. The purpose of this paper is to measure the temperature change of skin and the size of pores in the skin. The pore sizes were changed by its varying skin temperature. They were decreased by applying a essence which is contained with propellant and contents.

We have investigated the rheological behaviours of emulsions containing polymers. The polymers used in this study were polyacrylamide and carboxy vinyl polymer. The emulsion with polyacrylamide shows better prior preference than that with carboxy vinyl polymer on the skin texture. In the toxicity test, such as, LLNA cell toxicity, skin organ culture and human patch test, polyacrylamide was the appropriate materials for the cosmetics. The viscosity of polyacrylamide shows maximum value in neutral pH and good stability against temperature. The decreasing effect of viscosity against salt was not good enough but showed a better result than that of carboxy vinyl polymer. Two times the amount of polyacrylamide should be used for the formation of a similar viscosity of carboxy vinyl polymer. Yield value of polyacrylamide was low and the effect for the stabilizing emulsions was also low.

The objective of this study was to evaluate the antifungal properties of xanthorrhizol (extract from curcuma xanthorrhiza) against Candida albicans. Some of the commercial products were evaluated for their ability to inhibit growth of C. albicans. OTC product containing povidone iodide and cosmetic grade product with surfactants were tested. Antifungal activity was shown in 1.56% of OTC product, however, there was no antifungal effect in cosmetic product. For the comparison, we tested several materials. Povidone iodide, lemon tea tree oil and xanthorrhizol showed antifungal activities against C albicans in 0.25, 0.062 and 0.007%, respectively. We also tested the antifungal effects of povidone iodide and xanthorrhizol in surfactant base. Test results revealed that 2.5% of povidone iodide and 0.156% of xanthorrhizol showed similar antifungal effects. These findings support the application of xanthorrhizol for vaginal cleanser or personal cares using antifungal effect.

In this study, the anti-oxidative effects and components of sprout serum were investigated. In the buds, high levels of zinc, iron and manganese were analyzed in addition to copper, magnesium, and potassium. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity of sprout serum was evaluated with IC50. IC50 of sprout serum was 58.0 mgmL-1, and that of vitamin C was 3.7 mgmL-1. In the test of superoxide scavenging activity of sprout serum, the activity was dependent on the concentration of serum. In this case, the IC50 was 2.0 wt%. Cell viability was detected by using the MTT method. Cultured human fibroblast was treated with 15 mM H2O2 and cell viability was 70% in case of control. However, the effect of treating 0.5% of sprout serum was similar to that of 0.0001% of vitamin C.

We have investigated the effects of polyols and NaCl on the rheological behaviours of surfactant mixtures. Sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES), cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB), disodium cocoamphodiacetate (DSCA), cocamide DEA (CDEA) and lauroyl/myristoyl DEA (LMDE) were used as surfactants. The polyols added into the surfactant mixture were 1,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin, sorbitol, dipropylene glycol, PEG 1500 and PEG 400. The addition of amphoteric surfactant to SLES aqueous solution lead to increase the height of foam and the viscosity of the system. The addition of nonionic surfactant, LMDE or CDEA to the SLES aqueous solution increased the viscosity and the effect of LMDE was better than that of CDEA. The effect of adding polyols and NaCl into the surfactant mixture aqueous solution lead to increase or decrease the viscosity of the systems depending on the concentration of NaCl and the kinds of polyols. These results can be explained through the salting in or salting out of surfactant of the systems.

Water-in-Oil (W/O) emulsions are widely used in cosmetics. However, O/W (Oil-in-Water) emulsions are generally superior to W/O emulsions in terms of stability. In this study, we investigated the changes of viscosity, the size of emulsion droplets, and rheological properties of emulsions prepared using distearyldimonium chloride (DDC), magnesium aluminum silicate (MAS) and quaternium-18 hectorite (QH). In addition to the changes of the composition, we tested the condition of homogenization including rotation per minute of the mixer and the mixing time. The viscosity of emulsions with DDC and AMS were not changed with time and the stability of emulsions was stable during the storage time. However, the fluidity of emulsions were low due to the forming gel network in the emulsions. The gelling power of the emulsions with QH was rather weaker than that of the emulsions with DDC and MAS. The viscosity of emulsions with QH was gradually reduced and the phase separation of emulsions with high concentration of oil was observed throughout the storage time, however, the stability of emulsions with DDC, MAS and QH was excellent, the fluidity of emulsions was enhanced, and the viscosity of emulsions was sustained for a long time after setting of emulsions.

We have tested the stability of paeoniflorin, a new cosmetic ingredient, extracted from the roots of Paeoniae lactiflora. The stability of aqueous paeoniflorin solution at pH 3, 5 and 7 varied by adding buffer solution was tested at 0℃, 25℃, 40℃, and 65℃. The test was performed with or without UV light. The solution of paeoniflorin was stable at pH 3.0, however, the recovery rate of paeoniflorin was 40% at pH 7.0. The stability of paeoniflorin solution was decreased as the pH of paeoniflorin solution was increased by pH 7.0. The effect of storage temperature of paeoniflorin solution shows that the stability of paeoniflorin solution was decreased as the temperature was increased. The stability of paeoniflorin was rather good under UV light than the condition given above 40℃. The stability of paeoniflorin in W/O emulsions shows similar pattern to that of aqueous solution.

We have produced, characterized and compared different colloidal vehicles based on nanoemulsions. We also have investigated morphology and droplet distribution by means of electron microscope and photon correlation spectroscopy. Nanoemulsion systems characterized by different method on formulations have been obtained. Hydration power has been studied by means of a corneometer, measuring the skin electrical capacitance before and after the application of various type of skin lotions. It has been demonstrated that nanoemulsion with oil or fatty alcohol displayed a pronounced hydration power with respect to the solubilization system. In order to compare the smoothness of the skin after using skin lotion, we have measured the friction force. The skin lotions produced by nanoemulsion technique show improved smoothness of an atopic skin.

Caprylic/Capric triglyceride-in-water emulsions stabilized by Nikkol HCO-60 and HCO-10 were prepared using emulsion inversion point method at different HLB values. Emulsions with various droplet sizes were formed, and emulsion inversion point was detected by electrical conductivity. The change in emulsion droplet sizes and long term stability were monitored using laser scattering method and visual method. The droplet sizes and stability of emulsions were affected by HLB of surfactant. At emulsion inversion point, the water volume fraction increased as the HLB of surfactants decreased. According to our analysis, this resulted from a tendency of forming the W/O (water-in-oil) emulsion as the HLB of surfactants was decreased. The emulsion inversion point was clearly detected by the microscope and the electric conductivity meter. Nanometer-sized emulsion was obtained at the optimum HLB by using emulsion inversion point method. The main pattern of instability of emulsions in HLB 12 and 13 systems was Ostwald ripening. However, The patterns of instability of emulsions below 11 of HLB systems were Ostwald ripening and coalescence. All emulsions produced with surfactants in the range of HLB 8-13, creaming caused by density difference between water phase and oil phase.

It is inevitable to use chemical germicidal agents like paraben, imidazolidinyl urea and phenoxyethanol to preserve the emulsions which is usually used in cosmetics. Although these chemical preservatives are good enough to reduce the microbiological contamination, they are irritative, allergenic to the skin. Several kinds of polyols are used in cosmetics as moisturizer and solvent. In this study, we evaluate the effects of polyols on anti-microbial activities, safety and resistant index. MIC(minimal inhibitory concentration) of polyols determined against 6 germs including Staphylococcus aureus. The order of MIC was PG ≅ DPG ≅ 1,3BG 〉 HG 〉 1,2-PD 〉 1,2-HD ≅ 1,2-OD. The 2~3 wt% of 1,2-HD(hexanediol) shows good anti-microbial effects in emulsions without allergenic response. Resistant index of 1,2-HD was less than 2 and this value was smaller than that of chemical preservatives. The mechanism of antimicrobilogical effect might be disturb the membrane of germs by investigating using electron microscope. Added to that, using this paradigm, low preservative contents, paraben-free system, and even preservative-free systems can be expected from these results.

Anti-microbiological effects of xanthorrhizol, ie., extract from curcuma xanthorrhiza and extract from houttuynia cordata Thunb. against influenza virus and E. coli O157 were tested. From the influenza experiments, the effects were shown above 93 % in case of houttuynia cordata Thunb. extract, however, the effects was not shown in case of xanthorrhizol. The effects were sustained in mixtures of houttuynia cordata Thunb. and curcuma xanthorrhiza extracts. We also tested the anti-microbiological effects of hand sanitizer containing houttuynia cordata Thunb. and xanthorrhizol. The effect of hand sanitizer containing 2,000 ppm of xanthorrhizol and 500 ppm of houttuynia cordata Thunb. extract was better than that of commercialized foreign product.

In general, anionic and cationic surfactants are incompatible because their mixtures form insoluble complexes. There are, however, some complexes that are soluble and behave like regular surfactants, specifically like nonionic surfactants, thus named pseudo-nonionic surfactant complexes. Pseudo-nonionic complexes are more effective and efficient than their ionic surfactant components as shown by their equilibrium and dynamic surface tensions and interfacial tensions. They pack at the interface more than their ionic components. Since, pseudo-nonionic complexes show their own characteristics, they can be treated as separate classes of surfactants distinct from ionic and nonionic surfactants. Novel cationic surfactant was synthesized, having the polyhydroxyl group at the head group. We found that aqueous mixtures of our cationic surfactant and usual anionic surfactant(SDS) could form homogeneous solutions even at high concentration. The properties of mixed surfactant solutions were measured. Foam stability, CMC(critical micelle concentration), water hardness tolerance and thickening effect were tested. The foam stability of mixed surfactants was very good and various synergy effects were observed.