Simulacre means a copy of the original, an ostensible representation of someone or something. This study closely looks at the 2017 <VOGUE like a painting exhibition> hosted by the fashion magazine Vogue. The purpose of this study is to use both theoretical and empirical analysis to analyze the simulacre developed in fashion photographs inspired by famous paintings in the exhibition booklet. The booklet is divided into four sections: portrait, rococo, landscape painting, from avant-garde to pop art. It also contains 55 pieces comparing the original masterpieces to the works of 26 photographers inspired by them. The fashion photographs were analyzed using Jean Baudrillard’s four stages of simulacre transformation: represent, denature, dissimulate, and replace image change theory. The degree of simulacre expression was indicated three times on a four-point Likert scale by five fashion majors, and the results were integrated and analyzed. As a result, in fashion photography, simulacre— due to the development of photography technology and the photographer’s artistry— appeared in various ways; image denature was most preferred, followed by dissimulate, represent, and replace. This study shows that image analysis of fashion photographs and applying the perspective of simulacre when creating artworks can be a way to obtain rich qualitative data in the future.

This study is a theoretical research to investigate a methodological framework for analyzing the representation of women in fashion photography. For this study, this article attempts to develop a conceptual framework of the visual representation system through Lacan’s gaze theory, and analyze the representational aspects of women configured by gendered characteristics in the visual representation system. Structuralizing the visual representation system based on that theory, the gaze, the image/screen, and the subject of representation in the Lacan’s triangle diagram are replaced by the camera as the signifier of gaze, the representational image, and the seeing subject respectively. In the visual representation system, the camera creates a male-oriented visual field and structures a relationship of gendered power between male gaze as the seeing subject and female eye as an object to be seen. Looking into the representational aspects of women in this visual representation system structuralized by male gaze, women are represented in a way that reflects male desire through masquerade to comply with the patriarchal gaze, or differences that emphasizes the uniqueness and autonomy of women released from a patriarchal discourse. This study would be significant in that it provides theoretical basis for an analytic approach to the representation of women in fashion photography which we accept as a fixed one through the ideology of naturalization.

This study, which focuses on a masquerade, starts from the concept that all men exist as visual objects as well as visual subjects before discussing an issue of sexuality to inquire into masquerade characteristics of fashion photography. Masquerade is a concept that can describe various and multidimensional attributes of humans in social norms prescribed separately for men and women till now, and the concept has not yet been introduced in the field of fashion. However, it is considered a measure to analyze contemporary expressions of sexuality, on which a need for this research is raised. This study looks into the basic concept of the object and the ego through a psychoanalysis-related literature review. This study, then inquires into Jacques Lacan's notion of gaze and Roger Caillois's theory of mimicry through related specialty publications. This study reinterprets the concept of masquerade from Lacan's perspective and carries out an empirical analysis of masquerade characteristics in contemporary fashion photography based on the result drawn in parallel. Sexual masquerade shown in fashion photography based on the concept of masquerade is as follows: first, it appears as normative sexual description, divided into male and female by social norms; second, sexual ambiguity, obscuring the distinction between the sexes through playful and bombastic forms; and lastly, sexual subversion, disguising as the opposite sex through putting on clothes of the opposite sex.

Modern society attaches great important to state of the technology, but, unconscious desire and subconscious are also discussed in an important value. In the social background of such madness is acting as an artistic inspirational to the many people. At such a time, fashion photographs also being used medium which speak for people's desire. Editorial fashion photographs with unusual stories or including experimental visual elements unlike fashion advertising have increasing. The subject of this study is the formative characteristics in recognition of madness from ancient times until now and find out new meaning of the unusual and informal form of editorial fashion photographs showed in Vogue Italia since 2000. The analysis data of this study, we used 36 photographs of editorial fashion photographs taken by Steven Meisel, Tim Walker and Miles Aldriege. The final process of analysis made in with agreement of 10 major people. We used photograph's basic visual elements as analysis to avoid arbitrary interpretations. The content of this study is drawing in editorial fashion photographs from the viewpoint of Michael Foucault's Madness theory, Deleuze and Felix Guattari's Madness as the aspects of desire. The madness images in the editorial fashion photographs were showed as Decadence, Blindness, Violence and Grotesque based on the analysis results from above. The formative characteristics of editorial fashion photographs enabled the awareness on the value and importance of madness in modern society. These editorial fashion photographs can be the source of our wider perspectives for changing recognition of madness.

The advent of various arts and remarkable development of mass media since 1980s accelerate fashion photographs' advancement. The expression of fashion through photographs can represent characteristics of ages, societies, cultures, traits of designers and techniques of photographers. In addition, that is the tool which contains economical role as a product and artistic role as photos. Therefore, this study examines hyprt-reality images in editorial fashion photographs. Hyper-reality means the reproduction which represents the reality of life more actually. Hyper-reality through photographs elevates reality of virtual things and creates the confused situation which haunts the boundary between reality and reproduction. This study classifies the hyper-reality in editorial fashion photographs into three groups by their external traits, ideal reality, collapse of reality, and restoration of reality. First, ideal reality is represented as harmony among fashion, characters, and space, causality of fashion with time and circumstances, positive will, and melting with nature. Second, collapse of reality is expressed as in harmony between fashion and situation, violence, fetishism and symbol of death. Third, restoration of reality is shown as recurrence to nature and images of utopia to express dignity of life.

Today, as individuals show their social identities and reflect their being as the members of society with a culture, an art style and communication function are stood out in fashion photographs. Accordingly, the meanings of images into text are expanded in its interpretative width through the acceptor's various terms. This researcher looked into four theories of both positions on the textuality of language and image, and considered the point of discussion on image of each theory through modern fashion photographs. First, the theory which divides language and image as auditory and visual recognitions in the textuality of language and image is limited from the view it focuses on only one side without considering the ambivalent elements of each field. For the textuality in modern fashion photographs, the observer attempts to turn it into text to give meaning to it as the recognition through five senses conforming to the acceptor's condition. Second, the theory dividing language and image into the text of time properties and spacial properties has limitation in the text, for acceptor's experience of the object appears as the structured form in time and space rather than being defined as two things like time and space. Third, the theory classifying the language and image text into conventional taste and natural taste has limitation from the view that image text is hardly an object of consistent classification in ease of recognition by the code accepted in society. Thus, this can't be fundamental approach for the understanding of the text of decoding trend represented in modern fashion photographs. Fourth, accordingly, this researcher focussed on contextual and arbitrary text of fashion photographs through the theory of Nelson Goodman which discusses image text through the differences in textuality. Basic mechanism of perceiving and recognizing and distinguish image is closely related to habit and custom like language. So, each acceptor perceives the image as a text through arbitrary interpretation obtained by individual, empirical, historical, and educational viewpoints. The textuality of modern fashion photographs aims to widen the range of diverse knowledge and understanding, transcending the regulations of simple function of existing fashion photographs. Consequently, this researcher puts forward the opinion of consistent and diverse follow-up studies on instilling meaning into fashion photographs for the understanding de-regulatory and de-constructive through various senses by avoiding only one sense-dependent fixed and regulatory properties of it

The advent of various arts and remarkable development of mass media since 1980s accelerate fashion photographs' advancement. The expression of fashion through photographs can represent characteristics of ages, societies, cultures, traits of designers and techniques of photographers. This study focuses on Cindy Sherman's fashion photographs, which represent different kinds of respect to the women's states and identity. Cindy Sherman describes neglected women, sexual characteristics, and tries to overcome the limitation existing in modern society. By analyzing her fashion photographs, women's identities can be examined and the new trial of fashion photographs' expression is able to be considered as well. The results are summarized into two traits. The first is grotesque images, which have strange cuts, dissolved and deformed bodies. Those are expressions to subvert the stereotype of women. The second is amusement, which is expressed with uncanny and ridiculous appearances. These fun images are challenges to depict human instinct and also symbolic plays.

본 연구는 2019년 메트로폴리탄 뮤지엄 전시와 멧 갈라에서 제안한 대표 키워드인 수잔 손택의 ‘캠프’의 관점에서 현대 패션의 유행 현상을 포토그래퍼 팀 워커의 패션사진을 통해서 그 특성과 의의를 살펴보았다. 연구의 목적은 다음과 같다. 첫째, 수잔 손택의 캠프와 팀 워커의 패션사진에 관한 이론적 고찰을 통해 연구 방법론을 모색한다. 둘째, 패션에 있어 캠프의 주요 의미를 규정하고, 그에 따라 팀 워커의 패션사진을 유형화한다. 셋째, 캠프의 관점에서 팀 워커 패션사진의 특성을 도출한다. 이에 따른 연구 결과는, 첫째, 수잔 손택의 캠프는 동시대 패션의 유행 현상을 이해하는 연구 관점이자 방법론으로의 적용은 타당한 것으로 나타났다. 둘째, 팀 워커의 패션사진은 캠프의 인공적인, 중성적인, 유머러스한으로 유형화 될 수 있었다. 셋째, 수잔 손택의 캠프 관점에서 팀 워커의 패션사진은 초현실적인 스토리텔링, 뉴트럴, 가벼움의 특성으로 도출되었다. 현대 패션에 나타나는 다양한 유행 현상을 이해하기 위한 연구 관점으로 수잔 손택의 캠프와 패션의 표현 매체로서 패션사진의 연구를 통해서 도출된 결론은 인공적인-초현실적 스토리텔링, 중성적인-뉴트럴, 유머러스한-가벼움으로 관련 후속 연구의 기초 자료로 활용될 수 있을 것이다.