Boussinesq 모형을 이용하여 규칙파 조건(Regular wave condition)에서 파랑변형 및 해빈류의 수치모의를 하였다. 파랑변형의 수치결과는 선행 연구에 의한 수리실험 결과와 비교하여 매우 좋은 일치를 보였으며, 검증한 파랑변형 결과를 바탕으로 충분히 안정한 상태 이후의 해빈류를 계산하여 예측하였다. 모형의 현장 적용성을 위해, 실규모해역에서 관측한 선행 연구의 현장자료와 비교하였으며, 파랑변형의 수치결과는 현장자료와 비교적 양호한 일치를 보였다. 해빈류의 수치결과는 연안사주가 발단된 지역에서 다소 과소평가 되었지만, 전반적으로 해빈류의 공간적 분포에 대하여 정도 있게 예측한 것으로 여겨진다.

표사이동에 따른 해빈변형 및 해저지형 변동 그리고 쇄파대 부근에서의 확산거동은 연안역에서의 환경문제를 야기하며 이러한 문제의 해결을 위해서는 해빈류의 유황을 정도높게 예측할 필요가 있다. 이에 따라 기존의 해빈류 수치모형이 몇가지 제안되어 왔지만 실제 해역의 복잡한 해저지형에 의해 발생하는 해빈류를 만족하게 재현하기는 쉽지 않으며 모형의 검증은 현재까지 어려운 과제로 남아있다. 본 연구에서는 실제해역에서의 해빈류에 관한 현지관측 및 수치모형실험을 실시하

The construction of the coastal structures and reclamation work causes the circulation reduced in the semi-closed inner water area and the unbalanced sediment budget of beach results in an alteration of beach topography. Among the various fluid motions in the nearshore zone water particle motion due to wave and wave-induced currents are the most responsible for sediment movement. Therefore it is needed to predict the effect of the environmental change because of development and so the prediction of wave transformation dose. The purpose of this study is to introduce the relation between waves wave-induced currents and sediment movement. In this study we will show numerical method using energy conservation equation involving reflection diffraction and reflection and the surfzone energy dissipation term due to wave breaking is included in the basic equation. For the wave-induced current the momentum equation was combined with radiation stresses lateral mixing and friction Various information is required in the prediction of wave-induced current depending on the prediction tool. We can predict changes in wave-induced current from the distribution of wave especially near the wave breaking zone. To evaluate these quantities we have to know the local condition of waves mean sea level and so on. The results from the wave field and wave-induced current field deformation models are used as input data of the sediment transport and bottom change model. Numerical model were established by a finite difference method then were applied to the development plan of the eastern Pusan coastal zone Yeonhwa-ri and Daebyun fishing port. We represented the result with 2-D graphics and made comparison between before and after development.

A Wave-induced current model is developed in our study and this model is composed with wave transform model and current model. Two types of wave model are used in our study one is Copeland(1985) type which is applied in the offshore region and the other is Watanabe and Maruyama(1984) type which is applied in the surf zone. The depth-integrated and time-averaged governing equation of an unsteady nonlinear form is used in the wave induced current model. Lateral mixing radiation stresses surface and bottom stresses are considered in our current model. Copeland’s(1976) is used as a surface friction formula. Numerical solutions are obtained by Leendertse scheme and compared with Noda’s(1974) experimental results for the uniform slope coastal region test and Nishimura & Naruyama’s (1985) experimental results and numerical simulation results for the detached breakwater. The results from our wave model and wave model and wave-induced current model show good agreements with the others and also show nonlinear effects around the detached breakwater. The model in this study can be applied in the surf zone considering the friction stresses.

Various information is required in the prediction of wave-induced current depending on the prediction tool. We can predict changes in wave-induced current from the distribution of wave, especially near the wave breaking zone. To evaluate these quantities, we have to know the local condition of waves, mean sea level, and so on. In this study, we used a monochromatic 2-dimensional shallow water wave equation combining with radiation stress and friction terms to develop a finite difference numerical model. The established model, then, was applied to the development plan of the eastern Pusan Coastal Zone, YeonHwa-ri and Daebyun fishing port. We represented the result with 2-dimensional graphics and made comparision between before and after development.