This study aimed to suggest a suitable collar pattern by visually evaluating the appearance of the amount of collar drape by the starting position of the lapel line of a double-breasted tailored jacket using a 3d virtual fitting program. It created an avatar based on the mean size of women in their 20s (the 8th Size Korea) using clo network (double fastening: 10cm, collar width: 4.5cm, collar stand: 3cm, and lapel width: 8.5cm). The starting of the lapel twist line was waistline level, the 1/2 level of bustline and waistline, or bustline level, and collar laying amount was 4.5, 5.5, 6.5, or 7.5cm. It was evaluated by garment construction experts using 5, 6, and 4 items on the front, sides, and back, respectively. Descriptive statistics, F-test, Duncantest, and reliability analysis were conducted using SPSS 22. When collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. Under waist line, when collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. When collar laying amount was large, the collar’s outline length increased, resulting in unnecessary wrinkles from the neckline to the lapel, affecting the overall collar appearance. When collar laying amount was the smallest, the collar was lifted and the width was narrowed, exposing the seam connecting the collar and neckline. The length of the collar’s outline varied depending on collar laying amount, which was important to make the outline sit comfortably on the body.

The recent fashion market failed to satisfy the needs of female customers in their 30s who are demanding a slim jacket that makes the wearer look young and slim. Accordingly, the slim-fit jackets of domestic brands targeting the women in their 30s were collected to conduct look and movement fitting evaluations based on the standard somatotype, and a slim-fit tailored jacket prototype was developed based on the present findings. This research aims to increase the satisfaction level of the slim-fit jacket customers reflecting a variety of somatotypes of women in their 30s. The research process was developing jacket patterns fully reflecting the properties in terms of extra space and design lines for different somatotypes of women in their 30s based on the jacket pattern formulated through the advanced research, and then suggesting pattern design methods for the different somatotypes. In this sense, this research attempted to identify the problems concerning the slim-fit tailored jacket fitting for different somatotypes of women in their 30s. The main aim was to suggest ways to improve the customers’ satisfaction level regarding the fit, and enable the manufacturers to produce a well-fitting jacket reflecting the peculiarities of each somatotype.

Reflecting the consumer’s desire to look young, the “down-aging” trend, which blurs the distinctions between age groups, is the latest craze in the fashion market. The popularity of this trend made brand identities similar, resulting in customers becoming more interested in segmented notions of fashion (in terms of the story, design, high-quality material, etc.) regarding the product, and in particular, focus has become oriented to the fitness to the human body. In this sense, the researcher aimed to develop the prototype of a slim-fit tailored jacket that fits the standard somatotypes of women in their 30s well. For the purpose of this research, slim-fit tailored jackets from existing brands were collected and analyzed, and a subsequent wearability test was conducted based on the standard somatotype of women in their 30s. The research patterns were prototype of the developed slim fit tailored jacket are bust size of 3.8 cm, waist of 7 cm, and hip size of 3.8 cm. Then the research patterns were selected to develop the prototype of a properly fitting slim-fit tailored jacket. As outlined above, the development of a slim-fit tailored jacket prototype for the standard somatotypes of women in their 30s was conducted by solving the fitness issues of existing brands in order to produce properly fitting jackets that satisfy consumers.