Various herbal medicinal extracts were examined for the development of cosmetic products with anti-oxidative and anti-wrinkle activity. First, total polyphenol contents and DPPH radical scavenging activities of herbal medicinal extracts were measured. Most herbal samples, except for DW extracts of Portulaca oleracea, Caesalpinia sappan, Taraxacum platycarpum, Carthamus tinctorius, and 70% EtOH extracts of Taraxacum platycarpum and Carthamus tinctorius, showed DPPH radical scavenging activity over 80% at a concentration of 400μg/ml. SOD-like antioxidant activity of DW extracts of Syzygium aromaticum, DW extracts of Eriobtrya japonica and 70% EtOH extracts of Sophora japonica was measured as 40%, 35% and 80%, respectively at a dry matter concentration of 50μg/ml. In elastase inhibition assay, DW extracts of Lycium chinense (50μg/ml) and 70% EtOH extracts of Areca catechu (50μg/ml) showed 50% and 40% of inhibition, respectively. At a concentration of 1.250μg/ml, DW extracts of Lycium chinense and 70% EtOH extracts of Areca catechu showed 10% and 30% of collagenase inhibition, respectively. Skin and lotion samples were prepared using the two herbal extracts of high anti-wrinkle activity: Lycium chinense extract and Areca catechu extract. The storage stability of skin and lotion containing each of the selected herbal extracts was evaluated. pH and viscosity were used as stability indicators for the stability test under different storage temperatures and freeze-thaw cycle conditions. The skin and lotion containing each of DW extract of Lycium chinense and 70% EtOH extract of Areca catechu was showed high pH and viscosity stability. The skin and lotion containing DW extracts of Lycium chinense showed relatively higher stability than the skin and lotion containing 70% EtOH extract of Areca catechu, at cycle chamber and freeze-thaw conditions. In summary, these results indicated that cosmetics containing DW extract of Lycium chinense were relatively stable, and this herbal extract could be used as a stable functional cosmetic material.

본 연구는 향기성분을 많이 포함하고 있는 꿀풀과의 대표적인 5종류를 선정하여 이들을 대상으로 소량의 시료만으로도 신속하게 분석할 수 있는 고상 미량 추출법(Solid Phase Microextraction: SPME)과 동시증류추출법(Simultaneous Distillation and Extraction : SDE)으로 향기성분을 분석하였다. 분석결과 5종류의 꿀풀과 약초의 향기성분 구성은 linanol, limonene, citral, trans-geraniol 등의 monoterpene alcohol, monoterpene aldehyde 및 ketone 과 trans-caryophyllene, δ-cadinene 등의 sesquiterpene 성분들이 주로 검출되었다. 분석결과 기존의 향기성분 연구에 많이 사용되는 동시증류추출법(SDE)과 주성분에서 대부분 유사하였으나 형개의 향기성분처럼 SPME법에서 많은 성분이 검출되지 않는 경우도 있었고 배초향, 박하의 성분처럼 SDE법에서 검출되지 않은 일부 성분도 SPME법에서 검출되기도 하였다. 이러한 결과는 SPME법은 낮은 온도에서 흡착만으로 성분의 포집이 이루어지므로 추출, 농축 등의 조작에 의한 SDE법보다 이차적인 변질이 적었기 때문으로 생각되었다. 따라서 SPME법은 열변성이 적고 소량으로 다수의 시료를 분석할 수 있어 향신약초의 품종육종 등에 사용할 수 있는 간편하고 신속한 방법이 될 것으로 생각된다.