Industrial innovation in Britain, during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, stimulated the introduction of the factory system and the migration of people from rural agricultural communities to urban industrial societies. The factory system brought elevated levels of economic growth to the purveyors of capitalism, but forced people to migrate into cities where working conditions in factories were, in general, harsh and brutal, and living conditions were cramped, overcrowded and unsanitary. Industrial developments, known collectively as the ‘Industrial Revolution’, were driven initially by the harnessing of water and steam power, and the widespread construction of rail, shipping and road networks. Parallel with these changes, came the development of purchasing ‘middle class’, consumers. Various technological ripples (or waves of innovative activity) continued (worldwide) up to the early-twenty-first century. Of recent note are innovations in digital technology, with associated developments, for example, in artificial intelligence, robotics, 3-D printing, materials technology, computing, energy storage, nano-technology, data storage, biotechnology, ‘smart textiles’ and the introduction of what has become known as ‘e-commerce’. This paper identifies the more important early technological innovations, their influence on textile manufacture, distribution and consumption, and the changed role of the designer and craftsperson over the course of these technological ripples. The implications of non-ethical production, globalisation and so-called ‘fast fashion’ and non-sustainability of manufacture are examined, and the potential benefits and opportunities offered by new and developing forms of social media are considered. The message is that hand-crafted products are ethical, sustainable and durable.

The development of Indonesian textile design is mostly based on culture and tradition. The Indonesian government has cultural preservation program (Indonesian constitution, no 5, 1992), to promote Indonesian local culture in sustaining tradition by exploring the possibility of shifting the function of traditional textiles from ceremonial purposes to becoming commodity products. The shifted function into product commodity creates new market and situation among Indonesian craft-makers. This situation also happened for stitch resist dyeing technique, which is an Indonesian traditional textile technique used to manufacture traditional fabrics in three regions, namely tritik cloth in Yogyakarta, pelangi cloth in Palembang, and sasirangan cloth in Banjarmasin. Stitch resist dyeing, as a particular form of resist dyeing technique, is a textile technique that creates patterns in various shapes with small holes along the line of stitching, as a mark of any stitched resist pattern. Most of this technique are done manually, which are generally recognized as being time-consuming. This study will focus on preserving the stitch resist dyeing technique by producing elaborate description about the technique, focusing on the organisational structure and supply chain. The study will use a combination of ethnographic and soft system methodology. The methods use in this study are questionnaires, interviews, and observation. By producing rich pictures from each survey area, describing the character of the organisational workflow of stitch resist dyeing enterprises in Indonesia. Finally, this study discusses the critical points of the supply chain in the stitch resist dyeing enterprises that are related to the production capacity and quality. The unprecedented long chain of the process and the sense of ownership from the craft makers consider the main aspects in supporting the practices.

At the end of the twentieth century the decline of the domestic knitting craft was of paramount concern to the yarn companies and retailers that served this market sector. As demand reduced in the UK so did the number of specialist retailers. This was as detrimental to the yarn companies as it was to the craft. Research undertaken in 1999 by the author suggests that it is probably true to say that the knitting craft was at that point in time at its lowest point of popularity throughout the entire twentieth century. Throughout the twentieth century in the UK the popularity of crafts as domestic leisure pursuits fluctuated. Increased interest is reported to be primarily related to economic recession, where necessity is identified as being the greatest motivation for craft engagement; and craft engagement declines when the economy is more buoyant. There is evidence to support claims that the popularity of crafts in general experienced rise and fall throughout the 20th century correlating with times of austerity during economic downturns, thus suggesting that crafts were still largely taken up then as a necessity which could be contested. This paper reports briefly on the reasons behind the rise and fall of the hand knitting craft’s popularity throughout the last century in the UK before focusing on the latter decades in order to expose the factors related to the more serious decline of the craft in the 1990s. It discloses the perceptions of the craft at the end of the century and provides the foundation for the next stage of the research project which will involve an investigation of the craft in the early decades of the twentieth-first century. The paper draws predominantly on company and trade reports such as Keynote and Mintel and on previously unpublished survey materials from the late 1990s that were designed to explore the state of the hand knit craft at the close of the twentieth century.

Drawing on data collected through archival research, semi-structured interviews, and site observation, this study examines the conditions underlying the emergence of craft beer culture in Finland. In doing so, the study seeks to shed light on phenomena underpinning the emergence of global consumer culture in unfavorable environments. A hermeneutic analysis reveals three themes that contribute to the emergence of craft beer culture in Finland: craft brewers as Davids vs. Goliath, craft beer consumption as consumers’ identity work, and bartenders and brewers as cultural intermediaries. On a broad level, the study contributes to literature examining the impact of globalization on consumer behavior by illustrating how global consumer culture presents local consumers a means to resist dominant local cultural and market structures. The study also extends research on consumer acculturation to global consumer culture by highlighting the importance of cultural intermediaries in the acculturation process. Implications of the study include the finding that consumer resistance towards local hegemonic consumptionscapes presents an entry point for global consumer culture, allowing international marketers to tap into local consumers’ desire to defy and resist local cultural and market structures deemed as restrictive or oppressive. The study also argues that international marketers are wise to consider the influence of cultural intermediaries in introducing and disseminating new consumption practices, especially in the case of products at the forefront of new global consumption trends.

In this research, we have calculated characteristics of wave-piercing high-speed planing hull, by using a RANS solver and overset grid method, for comparing with experimental measurements of that and simulating with several appendages, since the computed results of commercial CFD code look reasonable for the prediction of the performances of planing hulls on calm water in planing conditions. As a result, it is confirmed that the dynamic instability phenomena in pitch and heave motions (porpoising) occurred after a certain FnV, and effectively suppressed using some of appendages, especially the 0.5L spray rail is suppressed to 24-55 % in the pitch motion and 33-55 % in the heave motion. In spray phenomenon, 1L hard chine suppress spray effectively and it is effective to set the angle of appendages to be less than 0° in order to suppress wave.

That Yeats is the last Romantic whereas Pound a Romantic at first constitutes what this paper is about: what I mean is, Yeats as Romantic transforms himself and Pound overcomes romanticism inherent in him. To become a poet Ezra Pound first reached for William Butler Yeats; became a patron; then overcoming Romantic poetry, became an equal with Yeats. Yeats’s evaluation of Pound is ambiguous, reserving his last judgment. In his “Introduction” to The Oxford Book of Modern Verse, and in his “A Packet for Ezra Pound” in his A Vision (1937) Yeats conceals his judgment of Pound. But it is in fact his indirect yet highest praise for Ezra. I would like to see how so different poetic temperaments enrich each other. I enlist K.K. Ruthven, T.S. Eliot, John Berryman for unraveling the two poetries intermingled.

Korean society is aging at a fast rate and the ratio of elderly population is expected to increase by 38.2% in 2050 (Statistics Korea, 2011). The extension of average life expectancy of the elderly generation leads to various problems and the most important issue is the mental health of the elderly. The suicide rate of the elderly is increasing every year and is the highest rate among OECD nations (OECD, 2014). The primary reason for the rapidly increasing suicide rate is psychological hardship caused by personal, social, and environmental factors such as a generation gap from nuclearization, decreased social position, retirement, economic hardship, spousal bereavement, and separation. The importance of education to improve quality of life through the mental stability of the elderly generation is emphasized. Continued education has a positive effect on the physical, social, and psychological health of the elderly generation (Kim, 2011), successful aging (Jee, 2010), and quality of life (Kim &An, 2008). Arts and crafts education can achieve development in visual perception, sense of touch, and continued elderly education (Mo, 2011). Arts and crafts education improves accomplishments and creative thinking ability through analogue behavior of making by hand. This study conducted 12 hours of education for 3 days from 1pm to 5 pm at 1 week intervals on 5 elderly women between 55 and 70 years of age to investigate physical and psychological effects on elderly women through natural wool craft activity. Before the education, the anxiety degree of subjects of the past week was measured with the Beck Anxiety Inventory (BAI) to verify the effect of sensibility education by conducting electroencephalogram(EEG) and PortaLite before after conducting education on subjects. As a result of analyzing the before and after numerical mean value through brainwave test, the increasing phenomenon of an alpha waves appeared and showed that the psychology of subjects is stable and secure. The result of this study showed that wool craft education decreased anxiety, increased alpha waves and improved the psychological stability of elderly women.

Compelling evidence suggests that the Earth’s resources deplete fast and the fashion industry from mainstream to luxury is also partly responsible to this environmental deterioration. The model of fashion production based on global supply chains for cheaper production locations and consumption where speed and endless diversification cater for global demand can hardly be described as sustainable and luxury is no exception to this. The thorny issue in the current state is how to reconcile sustainability which by definition opposes wasteful production and consumption with competitiveness which is built on aggressive models of global brand domination. The authors argue that the craft practices of the tailoring institutions of Savile Row in London constitute an important sustainable luxury example. The tailors have managed remarkably to combine sustainability and competitiveness in a relational model of competition and cooperation.

본 연구에서는 수중익 배치와 종모멘트 특성이 전몰형 수중익선의 종방향 운동 안정성에 미치는 영향에 대하여 Tandem 수중익 모형의 시험을 통하여 고찰한다. 먼저, Canard 날개배치를 가지는 Tandem 수중익 모형을 제작하고 수중익의 양력 및 항력 계측 실험을 수행하여 양력 및 항력 특성을 평가하였다. 또한 종방향 운동의 초기 안정성과 자기 안정성을 가지는 Tandem 수중익 모형의 날개 배치를 결정하였다. Tandem 수중익 모형의 종안정성 시험에서는 선수 및 선미 수중익의 종방향 간격 변화와 종모멘트의 자기안정성 변화에 따른 Pitch 및 Heave 운동 특성, 익주 상태의 종안정성을 평가하였다. 먼저, Canard 날개배치를 가지는 Tandem 수중익 모형을 제작하고 수중익의 양력 및 항력 계측실험을 수행하여 양력 및 항력 특성을 평가하였다. 또한 종방향 운동의 초기 안정성과 자기 안정성을 가지는 Tandem 수중익 모형의 날개 배치를 결정하였다. Tandem 수중익 모형의 종안정성 시험에서는 선수 및 선미 수중익의 종방향 간격 변화와 종모멘트의 자기안정성 변화에 따른 Pitch 및 Heave 운동 특성, 익주 상태의 종안정성을 평가하였다. 실험 수행 결과 본 연구의 주요 결론의 다음과 같다. 종 모멘트 자기 안정성이 클수록 주어진 고정 pitch 각에서 pitch운동에 대한 자기안정성이 높다. 다음 종모멘트 자기 안정성이 클수록, pitch각도 변화에 따른 pitch운동 및 heave운동의 변동 폭이 상대적으로 작으며 종방향 안정성이 우수하다. 마지막으로 종모멘트 자기안정성이 클수록, 수중익 양력이 동일한 경우, Tandem 수중익의 안정적인 익주를 위해서는 충분한 종모멘트의 자기안정성을 확보하는 것이 필수적인 것을 시험을 통하여 확인하였다.

여객과 화물의 고속 해상수송을 위하여 다양한 형태의 고속선이 개발되고 있으며 특히 40노트 이상의 고속 운항에 적합한 전몰형 수중익선에 대한 연구가 요구되고 있다. 전몰형 수중익선은 익주 상태의 안정적인 운항을 위해서는 종방향 운동의 안정성 확보가 필수적이다. 본 연구에서는 수중익 배치와 종모멘트 특성이 전몰형 수중익선의 종방향 운동 안정성에 미치는 영향에 대하여 Tandem 수중익 모형의 시험을 통하여 고찰한다.