This study aimed to examine the recent Hanbok school uniform design directions to contribute to the distribution of Hanbok school uniforms and the accumulation of Hanbok-inspired fashion design sources. We reviewed 16 academic papers published on Hanbok school uniform designs from 1998 to 2023 and summarized the design features proposed therein. We also analyzed 172 items of Hanbok school uniform designs developed under the Hanbok school uniform promotion project hosted by the Hanbok Advancement Center between 2019 and 2022. We found that the recent Hanbok school uniform design characteristics conformed to the design directions proposed in previous studies in terms of line, color, fabric, and textile pattern. Conforming design characteristics include the following. Overall, silhouettes were straight and moderately fitting to the body. Detailed straight and curved lines from Hanbok were applied. Designs showed traditional Hanbok colors, including white, black, and navy. Machine washable cotton and various blended fabrics were used. Modernized traditional patterns such as Saekdong, cloud, and Gwae were applied to textile designs. In contrast, some characteristics of recent designs deviated from the proposed design directions. Barrel silhouettes were found in casual styles of uniform items, including sweatshirts, hoodies, and jumpers. A wider range of materials, including fleece, quilted fabric, brocade, and Jinju silk, were used. Uniforms had looser silhouettes and were made with modern washable materials to meet students’ preference for casual uniforms.

본 연구의 목적은 비만 남자고등학생의 교복바지에 대한 착용만족도를 높이고 맞음새가 좋은 교복바지의 패턴개발을 위한 자료를 제공하는 데 있다. 이 연구는 사이즈코리아(2015)의 직접 측정 데이터 중 BMI 지수가 18.5이상인 17~19세 남자 745명의 데이터를 분석 자료로 활용하였다. 비만 남자고등학생의 체형분류를 위하여 표준체형과의 신체치수 비교를 위해 기술통계를 실시하였으며, 비만 남자고등학생의 체형분류를 위한 요인분석, 군집분석, 분산분석 등의 통계방법이 사용되었다. 그 결과, 비 만 남자고등학생의 체형분류 요인으로는 하반신 부피요인, 하반신 길이 요인, 복부 부피요인, 밑위 길이요인의 4개 요인이 도출되었다. 또 군집 분석의 결과로 4가지의 비만체형 유형이 분류되었다. 유형1은 분류된 비만체형 유형 중 하반신의 길이가 가장 짧고 왜소한 비만체형이며 유 형2는 비만 유형 중 허리둘레가 가늘고 복부의 부피가 작아 약간 왜소 한 비만체형이다. 유형3은 하반신 길이는 보통 이상이며, 하지와 하반 신 둘레, 복부의 부피 등의 모든 항목에서 가장 큰 값을 보여 부피가 큰 고도 비만체형이다. 유형4는 4가지 비만 유형 중 하반신 길이는 가 장 길고, 복부의 비만 정도가 유독 큰 복부 비만체형으로 정의할 수 있으며, 비만 체형의 특징을 반영한 교복바지의 설계방법에 대한 후속 연구가 진행될 예정이다.

The purpose of this study was to investigate students’ satisfaction with, perceived ease of movement of, and perceived fit of high school girls’ uniforms according to the uniform design. “P” high school, with a one-piece dress-type uniform, and “H” high school, with a two-piece type uniform, were selected for this study. Sixty-five female students from each school participated in the study. The questionnaire was composed of 21 questions about the school uniforms’ purchase behavior, design, fit, ease of movement, and modification and participants’ demographic information. Students from both schools were generally satisfied with the uniform design. However, in the open-ended response section, many “P” high school students responded that the fact that the one-piece dress pulled up when sitting or raising the hand made it uncomfortable. On the other hand, “H” high school students responded that the skirt was uncomfortable, because it left the body or underwear exposed when the wind blew due to the many pleats in the skirt. In the assessment of the ease of movement, “P” high school students were more likely to describe the uniform as uncomfortable than “H” high school students. Many students responded that they modified their school uniforms, and the length of the skirt and one-piece dress was the main part that was modified. This study suggests that growing female high school students are unsatisfied with the school uniforms’ design and fit. Additionally, the perceived fit and satisfaction levels depend on the uniform design.

This study is to present a female high school summer blouse with high movement functionality and satisfying appearance. For the experimental research 6 subjects with closest average body shapes and their body surface was measured at beginning and after selecting a representative movement the tested uniform was worn and the appearance and movement functionality was evaluated. The results of this research are as follows. In the research with the aims to improve the sleeve designed the height in 3 types as A.H/4+3, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+1 and their evaluation showed that in the order of best appearance was A.H/4+2, A.H/4+1, A.H/4+3. In the order of best comfort was A.H/4+2, A.H/4+3, A.H/4+1 and the best order for movement functionality was A.H/4+1, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+3. Additional height types designed produced from elastic materials were A.H/4+3, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+1 and the resulting order of appearance was A.H/4+3, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+1, order of comfort was A.H/4+3, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+1 and the order of movement functionality was A.H/4+1, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+3. Integrating these results shows that in using the same concurrent materials, the experiment pattern of setting the sleeve height as A.H/4+2 was the best while in using elastic materials, the experiment pattern of setting the sleeve height as A.H/4+3 was the best.

This study is to present a female high school summer blouse with high movement functionality and satisfying appearance, surveyed the students for their understanding of summer blouse. Experimental study’s research method was questionnaire survey. By using questionnaires, the satisfaction and comfort of each region of the current worn summer blouse was analyzed. The results of this research are as follows. After surveying 371 high school students in the Daejeon region on the currently worn summer blouse comfort levels, 48.4% showed dissatisfaction about the width of the sleeves and the armpits and over 93% wanted the use of elastic materials as an alternative. After investigating the summer blouses’ mending state, 41% of students that mending their clothes chose the alternation of reducing the overall silhouette of the blouse in all areas. This reflects the female high school students’ mentality that thin body shape is the ideal.

The growth of the middle school girls show big difference among the individuals and the development of each area of the body is not uniformed but diverse which could be understood as the period that the problems on the fit of the clothes occur extensively. Therefore, in this study, the somatotype of the middle school girls are intended to be categorized for the highly applicable clothes design. For this, the 3 middle schools in Jeonju were selected for anthropometric measurement of 324 middle schools. The items of measurement are related to the somatotype of middle school girls, clothes design which is consisted of total of 50 items. For the basic data of clothes was judged that the classification of somatotype related to the tops and bottoms would be rational; hence, it is classified into the upper part and lower part of the body to extract the body shape consistent factor. As a result of analyzing the factors, the upper body consistent was extracted as the 4 items: upper body circumference, upper body length, breast growth and arm length. It was displayed as 75.26% explicability. The lower body consistent factors are extracted as lower body height, lower body circumference, hip length, and rear shape with 78.62% explicability. To classify the somatotype of upper body and lower body, each factor score is made into the independent viable for group analysis. As a result, the upper body was classified into the 'upper body with small breast and long' and 'upper body with big breast'. The lower body was categorized as 'lower body with long hip length' and 'standard lower body'.