The study aims to analyze the mixed characteristics of knit fashion design as demonstrated in Sacai's collection, which promotes hybrid and mesh-up fusion and proposes various knit design ideas. Standards for categorizing mixed phenomena of Sacai’s knit design were established through a review of literature and data analysis. The study’s data collection period was from 2012 to 2021, and a total of 174 items were analyzed. The following are the results. First is the fusion of traditional knit and contemporary styles expressed through de-constructive design; traditional knit styles are combined with contemporary styles through color, material, and knitting structure mixtures, such as mixing Northern European Aran, Fair Isle, Nordic, and Ropy knit. Second, the Sakai knit design combines male and female styles by mixing materials and details. A deconstructed knit cardigan was matched with androcentric pin-striped shirts worn over layered shirring skirts embellished with chiffon and lace. Third, everyday street fashion style is blended with a formal, elegant fashion style. For example, the front view has a typical everyday appearance, whereas the back view contains florid and decorated details. The style is expressed as a 360-degrees appellation, with one thing in the front and another in the back. Sacai’s distinctive expressional characteristics include a mixed and de-constructive style characterized by unexpected design.

The purpose of this study is to develop a knitwear design with the potential for practical use through a combination of science and design by examining the concept and formative characteristics of fractal geometry and applying them to the development of 3D virtual clothing knitwear design. This study produced five main conclusions. First, the sub-concepts of “Repeatability,” “Scale variability,” and “complexity,” which are based on self-similarity, appear together with simple regularity in the fractal formative characteristics shown in fashion design. Second, fashion fields apply fractal geometry in three-dimensional surface textures and optical textile patterns as a method of expression. Third, it was confirmed that various expressions can be created with fractal patterns by using the SDS-ONE APEX 3-4 design system; moreover, fractal patterns are a suitable design source for the development of Jacquard knitwear patterns. Fourth, in the development of knitted jacquard fractal patterns, by arranging the patterns in perspective, the effect of emphasizing or reducing the human body by optical illusion was shown. Fifth, a knit Jacquard structure with a pattern that exhibits fractal modeling characteristics and applying it to a 3D virtual clothing sample design reduces the time required for sample production while expanding the knit design’s expression area and reducing costs. Thus, the clothing sample confirmed the effectiveness of practical knitwear design development.

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics and symbolism of peony, the traditional noble flower, create knit fashion designer applying the aesthetic beauty of flower, and suggest the various possibility of developing knit fashion design. As for the study method, the study conducted review on literature and previous studies to investigate on history, characteristics, symbolism of peony, and examined various expressive technique through previous studies about fashion design using flower images. To express characteristics of peony in three dimensions, the study investigated and reflected on crochet expressive technique to design 4 women’s knitwear. The results are as below. First, as shape of peony is big, voluminous, fancy and noble, it symbolizes wealth and beauty. Including red which is the generally known color of peony, there are yellow, white, pink, purple, green, blue, black, gray, white purple, white color. This study reflected characteristics and symbolism of peony and created knit fashion design applying abundant aesthetic characteristics of flower. Second, crochet method is advantageous as it is operable with thread and hooked crochet hook without time and space restriction, it can create unique fashion design. Crochet knitting on hand knit can diversity changes to express relief textures, and as there is no limit in size, it can be applied to small props to big pieces. This study suggested the various possibility of knit fashion design development and various expressive possibility on modern fashion design.

The number of hand knitters has increased dramatically in the past few years. Recently, various hand knitted items have been seen in many fashion collections. The main purpose of this study is to analyze the design features of hand knitted items in the collections from Daniela Gregis. This brand was selected because it featured knitted items in its collections every season. An empirical analysis about form, material, color and knitting technique was done for hand knitted items from Daniela Gregis’ collections from 2012 S/S to 2018 S/S. The results can be summarized as follows: In terms of form, garments such as pullovers, cardigans, and shawls used basic components, and accessories such as bags, mufflers, hats, and decorative pieces had various shapes. In the material, there were many items that expressed unique textures by combining various materials such as a mix of fabric and yarn. With regards to color, orange, yellow, and red were mainly used as accent colors, and combinations of two or more colors were prominent in the items. In terms of knitting technique, the methods used in the collections were mostly simple and basic. Among various techniques, plain knitting, garter knitting, and single crochet methods were mainly used. While this study is limited to the characteristics of hand knitted items from a single brand, therefore cannot be generalized for all knit fashion, the study provides basic data that could facilitate the revitalization of the hand knitting industry and expand the application range of hand knitting techniques.

The purpose of this study is to create knit ruffles that represent the aesthetic and artistic values of painted works of art that rhythmically express flower petals and add an artistic impression on the knit ruffle designs. This study is based on the artistic life of Georgia O’Keeffe and changes in her artistic background, and the world of paintings. The relevant data was gathered from domestic and foreign references, academic journals, and the internet. The characteristics of Georgia O’Keeffe paintings were examined. Her paintings typically include a series of various motifs, symmetry, balance, and harmony of detailed realistic expressions and abstract elements, repetition, and the principles of contrast and emphasis in shaping. The decoration techniques used on fabrics were applied using the knitting machine which controls the tension to develop a variety of textures, apart from the previous standardized knit textures, through various knitting techniques. A gradation effect was then applied by piece-dyeing the knitted materials in various colors to express asimilarity to the original colors in O’Keeffe’s works with delicate color expressions. After the piece-dyeing, the decorative knitted materials were trimmed on a model to re-create the natural curves of flower petals. This study aims to converge works of art with fashion designs to develop various creative knitted fashion and to impart an artistic sense in the fashion design industry.

This study analyzed the design elements and fashion images of women's knitwear in collections of Paris, Milan, London and New York between 2003 and 2008, and examined knitwear trends in an effort to verify whether knitwear trends are repeated in certain cycles, whether they show complicated patterns in cycles and yet occur in quasi cycles, or whether they occur non-periodically in complicated forms of chaotic cycles. Trend cycle analysis results are deemed to identify the time series attribute of knit fashions. It also sought to categorize the attribute of various factors influencing knitwear trends with a view to determining relevancy between design elements, and to present the direction of predicting knitwear fashion trends and the progression of short-term knitwear trends. This study reached the following conclusion. According to design elements or fashion images, knitwear fashion trends occur in cycles, quasi cycles, non-periodical cycles. These cyclic characteristics can be used as scientific data for planning knitwear products. The study confirmed close relevancy between fashion images and fashion elements. It identified close relevancy between designs with similar fashion elements and images through coordinates by year and season, and it is possible to make short-term prediction of trend direction through the flow of coordinates. Time series data were insufficient, thereby making it difficult to perfectly verify chaos indices and giving limitations to this study. A study with more time series data will produce a more effective method of predicting and using knitwear fashion trends.

The objective of this study is to develop naturalistic knit designs inspired by Yann Arthus-Bertrand’s works. For this purpose, we examined the present style of naturalism and history of naturalism though literature research, and then developed designs. The results are as follows: First, as scientific realism originated from a philosophical concept was adopted in literature and other genres, its meanings have been altered and comprehensively expanded according to the genres of which the term is being used. Naturalism of the modern times carries strong message of ecology and environmental protection. Second, the modern naturalism in fashion is manifested in expressing the image of nature and plasticity, instead of a mere use of the natural materials. As the aspects of ecology become more significant, elements of retro, recycle, or grunge are additionally integrated in fashion. Third, Naturalism expressed in knitwear is similar with that of other clothing in terms of color and textile, however, silhouette in knitwear is unique in its general naturalness and flowing effects. Embroidery, knitting of Jacquard and Intarsia, or crochet is used to express forms of objects from nature. Visual effects regardless of the contents of yarn, and pattern effects after knitting by using yarn, have influences on the material. Forth, the eight knit designs in expressing naturalism presented in this study took a motif from the works of Yann Arthus-Bertrand. They were created by rendering rhythm of the landscape with emphasis on brown color. Contour and surface touch were expressed through yarn and the structure of knit.

The purpose of this study is to explore the applicability of QFD to product development of clothes by empirically applying it to development of a specific clothes, middle and elderly women’s formal knitwear. The voices of customers(VOCs) for formal knitwear was collected through in-depth interviews with 25 customers, shop masters, and designers. Also, questionnaires of which respondents were 230 customers were used to rank the importance of the items of VOC. A QFD team of 10 knitwear experts implemented the task of translating VOCs into design attributes and measuring the values of the relationships between VOCs and design attributes. Importance ranking of the items of design attributes was obtained based on Lyman’s method. The results of this study were as follows. First, the customer requirements for formal knitwear were classified into five dimensions, that is, symbolism, aesthetic, fitness, usefulness, and maintenance. Second, the descending order of the necessity of improving the quality was maintenance, aesthetic, fitness, usefulness, and symbolism. Third, three-staged design attributes were obtained as a result of translating of VOCs into design attributes. Lastly, the descending order of the importance of design attributes was “sorts of yarn”, “sorts of color jacquard”, “color”, “tone”, “ease”, etc.