This study aimed to explore sustainable fashion design plans and directions by analyzing Marine Serre’s collection. Previous research was reviewed to derive classifications of the aesthetic characteristics of sustainable fashion design. This classification was then used to analyze the characteristics of the Marine Serre collection. Design analysis was conducted on Marine Serre’s 2018 FW to 2023 SS collections. Marine Serre’s sustainability characteristics are functionality, surprise, handicraft, and inclusion. The results are as follows. First, functionality is the highest among the four characteristics and includes the functionality of movement, the functionality of form, and futurism. This characteristic was observed in the use of all-in-one body suits, pockets, and workwear, showing the will and values of designers who value daily activity. Second, surprise includes the scarcity of materials and the unexpectedness of composition. The value of the clothing is enhanced by the use of scarce materials not typically used in clothing. In addition, Marine Serre is highly regarded for expanding clothing into life by incorporating material upcycling into the theme of the collection. Third, handcrafted features include exaggerated decorations, logo, retro designs, and natural properties, and intentional utilization is differentiated. Marine Serre’s signature pattern suggests a suitable expression for the fabric to use the crescent moon for the season. Fourth, the collection expresses themes of inclusivity and cultural diversity. The results indicate that Marine Serre wants to contribute to a better future characterized by global coexistence.
The aim of this study was to analyze the design characteristics of Chinese fashion designer Feng Chen Wang and interpret their implicit meaning from a neo-deconstruction perspective. A review of domestic and foreign literature, outlined the development of deconstruction and neo-deconstruction, with neo-deconstruction’s aesthetic features termed ‘traditional fusion’, ‘positive playfulness’, ‘open communication’, and ‘multiple inclusiveness’. These features informed an analysis of Feng Chen Wang’s fashion design. Four key findings emerged. First, ‘traditional fusion’ combines traditional Chinese colors, items, handicrafts, and patterns with modern design to break down boundaries between past and modern, tradition and fashion. Second, ‘positive playfulness’ promotes creativity and fun, using bright colors, exaggerated accessories, and playing withthe composition of traditional clothes to create a positive atmosphere. Third, ‘open communication’ emphasizes design that combines practicality and creativity in response to consumer needs, incorporating the thoughts arising from individual experiences and interest in social phenomena. Fourth, ‘multiple inclusiveness’ breaks down boundaries of sexuality, hierarchy, and body shape, embracing various ideas of beauty and respecting uniqueness through design that are seen as available to all. Using a neo-deconstruction perspective, Feng Chen Wang provides novel product planning ideas for Chinese fashion brands and reflects the values and meaning of modern design pursued by contemporary Chinese designers.
This study was aimed at examining the characteristics of women’s blue denim on the basis of design elements to provide fundamental data for fashion majors and fashion designers. Seven design elements were selected from previous studies to compare them with the following characteristics of blue denim: color (washing, dyeing), ornamentation (trimming, detailing, painting, and printing), and form modification, tearing, and ripping). Data from 1,520 photographs of the 2019 S/S to the 2023–24 F/W collections were collected through overlapping checks. The data were then subjected to frequency analysis using the Statistical Package for the Social Sciences (version 26). The results are as follows: The most frequent design method used in producing the denim items in our sample was washing, followed by modification, tearing, and ripping and detailing. The greatest change in denim design occurred in 2023, and more design element changes were observed in the F/W season than in the S/S season. Washing was used four times or more frequently than dyeing, while detailing was employed approximately 2 times more often than trimming. With respect to form, the most common approach was modification, followed by tearing and ripping.
In this study, the artistic background and formative nature of representative 19th century realist artists Gustave Courbet and Honoré Daumier were analyzed and applied in a fashion context. By displaying representational desires (necessary adhesions of man and society) in their work, they became characteristic matrixes of critical realism and to perceive critical realism. The purpose of the study was to apply the characteristics of critical realism to the contemporary fashion collections of Alexander McQueen. Research was conducted to analyze the characteristics that appear in the field of fashion and to review methods of expression and internal aesthetics displayed through various aspects of fashion design. Characteristics of critical realism were analyzed by researching the formativeness and periodical background of the paintings of Courbet and Daumier. Based on these characteristics, analysis was conducted to identify critical realism in the fashion collections of Alexander McQueen. Data and scope included fashion information sites, internet photo data, and video material. Critical realist characteristics were categorized into five types as follows: ‘The proper borrowing of extremely realistic subjects signifies’, ‘satirical reconstruction and narrative composition’, ‘antipathetic distortions and abject representations’, ‘critical reproductions based on technology’, and ‘the maximization of ambivalent sexuality’. It was concluded that the characteristics of critical realism (recognized by the common formation of Courbet and Daumier) also appeared in Alexander McQueen's fashion collection but were inherited in a form that transcended pictorial expression due to the overall difference in use of visual arts.
The purpose of this study is to provide basic data to assist students and industrial designers in fashion by examining the trend of designing women’s wear with the SCAMPER method. In the research, the seven types of SCAMPER methods for fashion design were classified based on the previous studies. From 2010 S/S to 2020 S/S, data from 5,149 photographs were collected through overlapping checks and classified by SCAMPER method type. Data analysis was performed using SPSS 25.0 for frequency analysis. As a result, in the SCAMPER “combine” method, more than two items were combined, or structural details were combined with items. In the most applied “adapt” method was involved imitating similar images, or natural forms, or other objects. The “modify” method was applied by changing the shape of some details in basic fashion items. The “magnify” method was applied by enlarging, elongating, or elevating some details of fashion items. The “minify” method was applied by minimizing, shortening, or lowering some details of basic fashion. The method of “put to other use” was expressed throughout the clothing by using non-fabric or trimmings such as metal, beads, and strings. The “rearrange” method was applied by repositioning the top and bottom, front and back, or outside and inside in fashion items and in details. The “reverse” method was applied by reversing the style of fashion, mix-and-match fabric, or switching the gender of the fashion items.
Oversized fashion is again in the spotlight due to the influence of retro fashion. This has created new fashion trends with methods different from those of the past. This analysis examines recent trends by sorting these looks according to new and different methods of judging their appearance. A new categorization of the oversized look and its configurations has been created, one which separates “big” looks, partial changes, and layered looks. This research was based on historical review and previous studies. Three thousand one hundred thirty-six photos of oversized looks that have appeared in collections over the past five years were gathered, and their appearance was categorized according to type. The categorization results showed that big looks (55.1%) were most prevalent, followed by partial alterations (36.35%), and layered looks (8.45%). In comparison to prior oversized clothing production, new permutations of the “Big” look expanded the silhouettes of torso, shoulders, neckline and collar. Partial changes have expanded from the broadened shoulders of the 1980s. Today these styles expand the shoulders and armholes vertically or horizontally, which dramatically exaggerates the sleeves and collar. The layered look no longer simply features overlapping layers but takes the form of over-layering through cuts and insertions. Through such analysis it is clear that modern oversized looks break away from the simple expanded forms and production methods of the past. They now attempt to realize an exaggerated beauty of form regarding each clothing component and also maximize decorative effects through innovative drafting or sewing methods.
The purpose of this study is to analyze the eco-friendly design characteristics of contemporary children’s collections. Photos from FirstviewKorea were utilized for analysis; 29 brands were selected that included children’s clothing collections featuring eco-friendly characteristics from 2007 to 2018. The results are as follows. First, naturalness was the most frequent characteristic of environmentally friendly children’s collections. It was not conveyed in an eccentric way in any season, showed a relatively uniform distribution, and was seen in various ways, including printed on the fabric and expressed in appliqués and embroidery. Second, handcrafted features frequently changed according to seasonal trends. Various methods such as beading, embroidery, applique, sewing techniques, and handbags were used, which enhanced manual workability, discrimination from other designs. Third, traditionality is divided into the characteristics of ethnicity and revivalism. National traditions were expressed in the clothing and reflected the current generation while connecting to the past. Fourth, simplicity appeared in classic designs such as simple silhouettes, sparse decoration, natural colors, and comfortable dress length that is not tight on the body. Simplicity was not a frequent feature due to the characteristics of the children’s clothing collections. Fifth, playfulness functioned to enhance the children’s clothing’s wear frequency. Although it was the least frequent of all the characteristics, it seemed to increase the design fun and the clothing’s value by fusing with other characteristics such as handcraftedness and naturalness.
In this study, we analyzed the whole design of the necklace in detail, which reflects the artistic sense of handicraft in couture. The purpose of the study was to identify the characteristics of the design based on the analysis findings and to provide basic data to help fashion designers. The research method entailed analyzing trends in necklace design - viewed in fashion magazines and on websites - by year, season, brand, kind, material, color, and image. The identified necklace design characteristics were as follows. First, artistry and originality are dramatically expressed through the use of a broad range of materials. Second, due to the necklace’s role as an object of perfect beauty, in a number of images, the necklaces were presented in convergence and contrast with overall costumes. Third, the dramatic effects of layering revealed a strong presence and individualized styling. Necklaces are created with diverse sculptures by realizing the creative imagination of fashion designers. Even though they looked a little different every year, there were designs in the collections constantly. Round shape and princess length were preferred. In particular, the mix type was used to express dramatic effect by focusing neck part in entire styling which different length of necklaces were layered and worn. As a result, it meets the needs of consumers who emphasize brand differentiation and diversity, and it is believed that the role of necessities in fashion will continue and it creates economic demand in the fashion industry.
The aim of this paper is to examine relationship characteristics and the relevance there of in the context of the Chanel collection, between the contemporary fashion show viewed from the artistic side and intermedia on interaction. This study analyzed the relationship characteristics between intermedia and fashion shows by focusing on Chanel fashion shows from 2010 S/S to 2016 F/W as actual case. The results are as follow: First, participational accessibility indicates the experience of a designer and audience in active participation changing into passive participation. Second, audience immersion is represented by the perception of being involved by the audience in the place and acting. Third, conceptual symbolism is sending of messages through the designer’s abstract concept manifesting in the specific features of the design. Finally, expandability of media explains trans-boundaries in experimental attempts. It concludes that fashion show is a space where the audience can have visual as well as new knowledge and experience through multi-sensory channels. The Chanel collection which is considered a huge art project at the fashion show, showed a relationship between philosophy and the direction through season concepts and brands. The Chanel collection has brought a new experience through the convergence of communications and cultural media, such as music and art according to traditional brand image.
Today all nations in the world focus on remaining competitive advantage by adding high values to their fashion businesses. The most typical example of such added value is fashion collection. In case of London Fashion Week, which is among the world’s top 4 most famous fashion collections where more than 5,000 journalists and buyers from 25 nations can be expected every season, it has great contribution to the economic wealth of London. It induces consumption of 20 million GBP and economic production effects of one hundred million GBP. According to Joo (2009), one of the main purposes of fashion collections can be defined as the invigoration of international marketing and the creation of consumption demand. Fashion collections lead to increased direct sales and consumption demand by developing new products based on leading fashion trends that are presented in the collection. The so-called Big four collections in Paris, Milan, New York and London have their own Country of Origin (COO) image, which represents each country, cities, brands, products and services. For example, Paris collection has been established as luxury image with hand-made and Haute Couture. Not only fashion collection but also fashion brands have applied specific country characteristics to their fashion brand’s image. This serves as a critical factor of competitiveness that communicates an integrated image of brands to the customers. Also, within the purchase decision-making process, consumers consider COO as an important element. Therefore, organizer of fashion collections as well as brands that engage in such should consider COO as a key factor. Most of the previous studies about fashion collections focused on content analyses. For example, Joo (2009) compared characteristics and current situations between four major overseas cities’ collections and Seoul collection. Additionally, there are studies about fashion style, trend, design and textile. Characteristics of color change in 1990s fashion collection (Kim & Kim, 2007) and an analysis of design of hats and fashion images in collections (Jeong & Jeong, 2008) have been conducted as well. Previous studies related to COO mainly focused on the product (Bilkey & Nes, 1982) and how the image of the producing country affects product evaluation. Thus, the purposes of this study are 1) to examine of fashion collection’s COO and fashion brand image effects on brand evaluation and purchase intention, 2) to analyze differentiation factors of COO image, brand evaluation, purchasing intention on Seoul, New York and Paris collection. We surveyed Korean, American and French who have experience in their own country’s fashion collection and used SPSS 21 for data analysis. Fashion collection’s COO and brand image has a great effect on brand evaluation and purchase intention. Moreover, it seems to increase the purchase intention by affecting brand evaluation. Therefore, the results of the study are as follows. First, we can confirm that the better the fashion collection’s COO and fashion brand image, the higher brand evaluation and purchase intention is. Second, when assessing fashion collection’s COO image and fashion brand image, brand evaluation and purchase intention differ according to Korea, US and French national stereotypes. This study goes beyond the general product-centric COO studies and introduces the fashion collection’s COO that can be valuable research in terms of contribution not only to academia, but also to the industrial field.
For a good design, it is important to understand consumers and trend of textile and fashion design. Previous researches on textile pattern design with CAD have been done. They have studied on Korean traditional floral motives/hand painting or some geometric patterns. Few studies have been done on conversational design. Therefore the purpose of study was to observe types of textile pattern design for the recent fiver years and determine fabric pattern trends, especially on the conversational motifs. The types of patterns were analysed with professional panels from the 2005~2009 collection sources, using SPSS program. This study was also develop textile patterns creating using CAD. We conducted design process on motif creating, repeat, and mapping jobs, using textile special design program Prima vision and Photoshop CS3.
This study aimed to analyze the expression of Hybrid in Contemporary Hair Design that is one kind of total fashion. In this research, by background of the hybrid characteristics of the messes culture art, the hybrid characteristics of the hair design has been defined as characters which is the mixture of timeless spaces, styles, sexes, unsuitable elements and cultures. The results of analysis by the expression of the hybrid hair design after 2000 is like this. As the researching, the hybrid characteristics of the hair design by the mixture of unsuitable elements and styles have been presented the highest. The result of the frequency of the apparition in the hair design molding elements according to the expression of the hybrid hair design, the hybrid characteristics of the unsuitable elements and style has been presented ideological form and the artificial form was the highest. The case of the hybrid of the activated texture, the unsuitable elements, style and timeless space has been presented excellently one after another. In the color tone, the mixture of the style, the unsuitable elements and timeless space has been presented one by one. The case of the hybrid of the image, the unsuitable elements that is the highest the frequency of the apparition was presented the image of the avant-garde, the fantastic and humor one after another.