This study aims to analyze the traditional embroidery in Korea, China and Japan based on Pierre Bourdieu’s cultural theory, habitus and field. We conducted literature and case studies examining the late Joseon Dynasty, Qing Dynasty, and Edo Period, respectively. Based on previous studies, we reviewed three fields: social systems, goods and economy, and environmental and regional. We also explored art, culture, and national tastes as habitus. We then examined each country’s embroidery practices through these lenses, and the practice of habitus is as follows. We determined that traditional Korean court embroidery in the late Joseon Dynasty was characterized as controlled elegance, while private embroidery reflected earnest simplicity. During the Qing Dynasty, traditional Chinese court embroidery depicted sumptuous power, while private embroidery portrayed harmonious splendor. Finally, traditional Japanese embroidery in the Edo period reflected symbolic natural beauty and exaggerated comic beauty. As a result, Korea, China, and Japan have had a relatively close geographical location and a similar climate environment zone, and since ancient times, many cultures have been exchanged with each other. However, it seems that the characteristics of traditional embroidery have developed slightly differently due to the practice of habitus, which was caused by of the conspiracy of field and habitus of the three countries. The significance of this study is expected to explain the relationship between the birth and extinction of costumes and embroidery by establishing a systematic and objective framework for aesthetics research.

Goldwork embroidery is the art of embroidery using metal threads. As well as being used as a decorative element of religious clothing, flags, performing costumes, uniforms, and badges, goldwork embroidery is also used in many current designer collections. Therefore, this study aimed to examine the techniques and materials of goldwork embroidery and the formative characteristics and socio-cultural values of goldwork embroidery from its beginning to the early 20th century. For this study, various embroidery works, costumes, museum portraits, and literature were analyzed. The results are as follows. First, the transition of goldwork embroidery was divided into 4 categories: The beginning of goldwork embroidery; the golden age of goldwork embroidery; the maturity of goldwork embroidery; and various goldwork embroidery (depending on the materials used, usage, and design features). The earliest extant example is the “Maaseik fragments” in Belgium dating from the late 8th to early 9th centuries. Until the 15th century, the Church was the most important patron of goldwork embroidery; however, after the 15th century, goldwork embroidery was produced on costumes. Second, the social-cultural values of goldwork embroidery (based on transition and formative features) were classified as expression of divinity, instrument of governance, desire to be approved, and tools of self-expression. Through this study, it is evident that there have been many advances in both technique and technology over time. Furthermore, patterns of usage and social-cultural values of goldwork embroidery have changed significantly.

본 연구의 목적은 첫째 마찰 시 직물의 면적을 증가시켜 에너지 수확의 효율을 높일 수 있는 입체 자수 기법 및 전도성 직물 재료를 탐색하고, 둘째 높은 효율을 보이는 입체 자수 기법을 토대로 브러싱 가공을 실시하여 가공 후의 발생 전압을 분석하며, 셋째 이를 근거로 마찰 에너지 수확 증대형 직물의 구조를 탐색하는 것이다. 이를 위해 다음의 두 가지 실험을 실시하였다. “실험 Ⅰ”에서는 인체로부터 마찰 에너지를 수확하는 효율에 영향을 미치는 직물 내 주요 변인으로, 1) 입체 자수 기법(사틴 기법, 파일 기법), 2) 전도성 직물 재료(구리 기반 MPF, 니켈 기반 MPF)를 선정하고, 이 두 변인들의 조합에 따른 4개의 시료를 제작하여 마찰 시 발생 전압의 차이를 비교 분석하였다. “실험 Ⅱ”에서는 높은 효율을 보이는 입체 자수 방식의 시료를 대상으로 브러싱 가공을 실시하여 가공 후의 발생 전압을 분석하였다. 그 결과, 두 전도성 직물 재료 모두에 있어서 파일 자수 직물 구조가 사틴 자수 직물 구조에 비해 높은 마찰 에너지 수확 효율을 보였고, 이러한 결과는 마찰 면적에 따른 전하 밀도와 발생 전압이 비례하는 마찰 에너지 수확의 원리와 일치하였다. 이를 통해 마찰 면적이 큰 파일 자수 직물 구조가 마찰 면적이 상대적으로 작은 사틴 자수 직물 구조에 비해 에너지 수확 효율을 증대시키는데 유리한 방식임을 알 수 있었다. 또한 브러싱 가공 후의 에너지 수확 효율도 마찰 면적 증대로 인해 가공 전에 비해 높게 나타나, 브러싱 가공 방식이 마찰 에너지 수확 증대에 있어서 유리한 가공 방식임을 알 수 있었다.

A Beoseonbongip is a pouch that holds patterns for making Beoseons. This study aimed to identify the aesthetic and symbolic contents of the embroidery patterns by analyzing the kind, combination types, expression and arrangement types of patterns. In total, 140 Beoseonbongip artifacts, which were mostly made in the Joseon Dynasty, were quantitatively and qualitatively analyzed. The results indicated that about 83% of the total had flower patterns. Various kinds of embroidery patterns used for Beoseonbongips were newly identified. About 73% of the total had different kinds of patterns. Pattern combination types were identified by the kinds of patterns, the number of paired patterns, and the traditional painting styles used. The patterns of Beoseonbongips were expressed schematically more than realistically or abstractly. Beoseonbongips with different patterns on the four triangle tips of the front face and Beoseonbongips with the same/similar patterns on two opposite tips of the front face were observed more than the other types. On the back face, the embroidery patterns were symmetrically arranged, showing various division structures. It was inferred that wishes (e.g., marital harmony, fertility, good health and longevity, happiness, and wealth and fame) were expressed through the symbolic patterns embroidered on the Beoseonbongips. In terms of Korean traditional beauty, the union with nature, the harmony of yin and yang, symmetric balance, and neatness were also emphasized as a esthetic characteristics of Beoseonbongips.

This research was conducted in order to examine the socio-economic conditions and the problems of marketing of the PUGUR Hand embroidery of the Toda tribal women in the Nilgiris Hills towards marketing their embroider woven on garments, that being a famous unique work represented as a heritage art and has received the award of GI status (Geographical Indication) by the Government, on the Queen of the Hills, (Nilgiri Hills) Tamilnadu, South India. The results indicate that sample respondents being tribal women who live inside the forest area on the top elevation of the Nilgiri hills are illiterate and also suffer due to the family conditions. In India tribal area economic opportunities for women are scarce while hardships are plentiful and Indian women often see little hope for themselves or their children to improve their future. Since 70% of the affected people are women, it is women that have found a way to lift themselves and their families out of poverty. They were driven to make a decision of survival. I ndia is a nation where its women are both glorified as well as suppressed. The majority of women in the lower strata have to depend on a male member for financial support. Due to the practice of liquor addiction, smoking, drugs etc., women and families suffer. This is one of the main reasons for poverty in India and why children have been deprived of education and other basic necessities of life. If women could become financially self-sufficient, then families would get at least the basic benefits of food, clothes, medical attention, and nourishment, above all, children could go to school. This study focuses on the marketing problems faced by the Toda tribal women to support their family as men do not help them in their art work completely. A sample of 150 Toda tribal women embroiders was selected to study their marketing problems faced in every day to day of their life. For the purpose of the study the researcher has used convenience sampling, and Friedman test were done to find out their rankings of the various variables taken for the study.

문화상품이란 자국의 문화·역사적 요소 및 자원에 현재의 시대적 조건에 맞는 심미적 요소와 첨단 산업기술을 복합적으로 투입하여 경제적 부가가치를 창출하는 복합체를 말한다. 동시에 문화상품은 한 나라의 문화가 총체적으로 응집된 상품을 뜻하며, 고부가가치 창조형 산업이면서 자국 문화의 고유성 및 특성을 세계의 보편문화와 조화롭게 결합시켜 새로운 가치를 창출하는 과정에서 제작자의 전문성 및 창의력이 상품경쟁력을 결정하는 주요변수로 작용하는 지식창조형 산업이다. 따라서 그 어느 산업보다 첨단 소프트웨어 기술 및 고도의 문화 창조능력이 요구되는 21세기 유망 성장이라 할 수 있다. 그러나 현재 우리나라는 문화상품에 대해 국가정부 차원에서의 인식 수준은 높으나 민간 자본의 유입과 협력관계를 조성하는데 필요한 기반 구축은 미흡하다. 또한 서구의 상품 아이템을 모방하는 단계에서 상품 개발이 추진되고 있으며, 수공예적인 유사예술상품 및 지역토산품, 관광기념품 중심으로 상품이 개발되는 등 유용성과 경제성 중심의 신상품 개발은 매우 부족한 실정이다. 전통 자수는 우리의 사상과 미의식이 투영된 소중한 우리 문화유산이다. 그러나 차별성 있는 문화로 산업화하지 못한다면 국제경쟁력 시대에 대응하지 못하고 상실될 수도 있다. 중국과 영국의 도자기, 일본의 칠기 등과 같이 우리의 전통 자수도 우리 시대에 맞는 문화상품으로 개발하여 세계적으로 우수한 문화상품으로 생산하여 발전될 수 있도록 연구하여야 할 것이다.